Siffy
New member
Any of these would be the least work for you.
http://www.aquatichouse.com/Maintenance_files/shockbuster.asp
You should be able to find a solution like them at Home Depot or Lowes or possibly Wal-Mart.
Your Electrician Here
- Thread starter Young Frankenstein
- Start date
Any of these would be the least work for you.
http://www.aquatichouse.com/Maintenance_files/shockbuster.asp
You should be able to find a solution like them at Home Depot or Lowes or possibly Wal-Mart.
Siffy
New member
I would run 12/2 wire, install 2 15 amp breakers/circuits, and use 15 amp GFCI outlets. 3000 watts should be plenty unless you're planning to run many MH lights and a huge chiller. Since you're setting up a 150g, I can't envision you needing more than that. At most 3x400watt MH, 300-400 watts for circulation and 300-600watts for heaters. That's 2000watts on the high side leaving enough for a 3/4hp chiller. And all that would be overkill for a 150g. More likely is 500watts for 2x250 MH, ~100watts actinics, 400watts on pumps, 500w for heaters and possibly a chiller. You'll be fine with 15amp circuits, but I do recommend oversizing the wire size. I don't like 14 gauge wire for anything but lighting. And I don't mean tank lighting.
Siffy
New member
It's just a personal preference. And it's one I share with several electricians I've worked with. Running a #12 wire gives the option of upgrading the circuit to a 20amp later by simply changing out the breaker and outlet. I don't recall seeing 20amp GFCIs very often. Bottom line is I'd rather oversize and the weakest link be in the panel rather than inside the wall for a few dollars more. And it's not breaking code to oversize the wire.
There really is no point to having 40amps dedicated to a single tank system. If you find yourself needing that much, you've made poor decisions purchasing equipment.
There really is no point to having 40amps dedicated to a single tank system. If you find yourself needing that much, you've made poor decisions purchasing equipment.
Will the 5-OUTLET PLUG-IN GFCI actually work in replacement of wiring a GFCI line?
ADAPTERhttp://www.aquatichouse.com/Maintenance_files/shockbuster.asp
ADAPTERhttp://www.aquatichouse.com/Maintenance_files/shockbuster.asp
Young Frankenstein
New member
At the GFI output you will be protected the same as a wall GFI. So yes is the same.
Young Frankenstein
New member
The nice thing about this thread is theres many electricians and engineers that respond and answer questions
Young Frankenstein
New member
How do HID ballasts work in general?
HID lamps provide light from an electric discharge or arc and have a negative resistance characteristic that would cause them to draw excessive current leading to instant lamp destruction if operated directly from line voltage. The ballast is a power supply for arc discharge lamps. Its purpose in HID lighting is to provide the proper starting voltage to initiate and maintain the lamp arc and to sustain and control lamp current once the arc is established.
A ballast design incorporates basic circuitry to provide specific lamp/ballast operating characteristics. For some types of lighting applications a particular ballast circuit has proven the most cost effective and is, therefore, the only circuit offered. Other applications may require an optimum ballast selection from two or three available alternatives for that particular application. Final selection is based upon cost vs. performance requirements.
HID lamps come in various types and wattage selections. Each lamp type and wattage requires specific starting and operating conditions to develop rated light output and operate the lamp within allowable limits. Ballasts and lamps are designed to meet standards for interchangeability between lamps and ballasts of the same type and wattage. A lamp must be operated by the ballast designed for that lamp, as improper matching of lamp and ballast may cause damage to the lamp or ballast or both. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) provides specifications to standardize lamp and ballast compatibility.
For many years, all HID ballasts were magnetic ballasts operating at the power line frequency of 50 or 60 Hertz to provide proper lamp operation. In the past few years electronic ballasts have been developed, primarily for metal halide lamps, using integrated circuits that monitor and control lamp operation. Electronic ballast circuits sense lamp operation characteristics and regulate lamp current to operate the lamp at constant wattage, thus providing a more uniform light output and color rendition throughout lamp life. They also sense lamp end-of-life and other circuit conditions and shut down the ballast when the lamp operating characteristics fail to meet operating specifications.
HID lamps provide light from an electric discharge or arc and have a negative resistance characteristic that would cause them to draw excessive current leading to instant lamp destruction if operated directly from line voltage. The ballast is a power supply for arc discharge lamps. Its purpose in HID lighting is to provide the proper starting voltage to initiate and maintain the lamp arc and to sustain and control lamp current once the arc is established.
A ballast design incorporates basic circuitry to provide specific lamp/ballast operating characteristics. For some types of lighting applications a particular ballast circuit has proven the most cost effective and is, therefore, the only circuit offered. Other applications may require an optimum ballast selection from two or three available alternatives for that particular application. Final selection is based upon cost vs. performance requirements.
HID lamps come in various types and wattage selections. Each lamp type and wattage requires specific starting and operating conditions to develop rated light output and operate the lamp within allowable limits. Ballasts and lamps are designed to meet standards for interchangeability between lamps and ballasts of the same type and wattage. A lamp must be operated by the ballast designed for that lamp, as improper matching of lamp and ballast may cause damage to the lamp or ballast or both. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) provides specifications to standardize lamp and ballast compatibility.
For many years, all HID ballasts were magnetic ballasts operating at the power line frequency of 50 or 60 Hertz to provide proper lamp operation. In the past few years electronic ballasts have been developed, primarily for metal halide lamps, using integrated circuits that monitor and control lamp operation. Electronic ballast circuits sense lamp operation characteristics and regulate lamp current to operate the lamp at constant wattage, thus providing a more uniform light output and color rendition throughout lamp life. They also sense lamp end-of-life and other circuit conditions and shut down the ballast when the lamp operating characteristics fail to meet operating specifications.
Husky_1
Premium Member
Quick Disconnects? Solid Core vs Stranded
Quick Disconnects? Solid Core vs Stranded
0 Agios,
I am putting together my lighting for my new tank and was wondering if you think the fully shielded quick disconnects are safe to use on the wires from the ballast to the lighting or from ballast to electrical source? Most of these are rated at 300v, but I did not see an amp/watt rating. If this is not good, do you have any other suggestions?
Also, the ballast's wiring harness uses solid core wire, if I decided to do remote ballasts are there any drawback to me extending these with stranded core (I am not sure of the technical name is). Of course this is where I would use the disconnects to join the wires together. I like the idea of the stranded because the color options with wires are far greater so the mapping is much easier.
Thanks in advanced,
Dale
Quick Disconnects? Solid Core vs Stranded
0 Agios,
I am putting together my lighting for my new tank and was wondering if you think the fully shielded quick disconnects are safe to use on the wires from the ballast to the lighting or from ballast to electrical source? Most of these are rated at 300v, but I did not see an amp/watt rating. If this is not good, do you have any other suggestions?
Also, the ballast's wiring harness uses solid core wire, if I decided to do remote ballasts are there any drawback to me extending these with stranded core (I am not sure of the technical name is). Of course this is where I would use the disconnects to join the wires together. I like the idea of the stranded because the color options with wires are far greater so the mapping is much easier.
Thanks in advanced,
Dale
Young Frankenstein
New member
Hi Husky_1 for the remote ballast wire use a # 12/3 (2 hot + 1 ground) SO or SJ cord, its the black cable with 3 conductors inside. You can definitely go at least 30ft away with your remote ballast with no problems. The #12 wire has multi strands and helps with what we call a skin effect (electricity travels on the outside perimeter of a conductor), and less resistance. The reason they use a solid wire on the ballast is because is used as magnetic wire. Don't switch the output of the ballast, switch only the input and you can use the switch you are saying as long as its rated for at least 10 Amps.
Young Frankenstein
New member
jnarowe search for advance ballasts they should be able to supply you with capacitors.
rustybucket145
New member
Ok, I picked up a couple of fans from Northern Tools to use as cooling for my tanks. Here's a link to the fans: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308149_200308149
In a perfect world this is what I would like to do (for as cheaply as possible)
I'm handy with electrical, but when it comes to electronics I get lost real quick.
I'd like to have some type of thermostat under my canopy.... set for say... 80 degrees. When it's above 80degF I want the fans to come on and of course when it drops, the fans should go off. I don't think a normal HVAC thermostat would work in this situation b/c the contacts would corrode very fast in a SW application, so finding a thermostat is my first 'issue'.
Second, I'm a little confused when it comes to power sources. I believe the fans are 12vDC 500mA. So for two fans would I need a 12vDC 1A power source?
Third, I'd like to be able to control the speed of the fans. In a perfect world I'd like for the temperature to regulate the speed of the fans, ie; 75deg fans come on slow; 80deg fans go to med; 90 deg fans go to high. But I'd settle for being able to set the fans to half speed and be controlled on/off by the thermostat.
I'd also like to have the ability to add more fans later down the road. Could I oversize my power supply in order to build for addition of more fans down the road? For example 4 500mA fans would need a 2A power supply?
Any ideas or suggestions you guys may have on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for any guidance or suggestions!!
In a perfect world this is what I would like to do (for as cheaply as possible
)I'm handy with electrical, but when it comes to electronics I get lost real quick.
I'd like to have some type of thermostat under my canopy.... set for say... 80 degrees. When it's above 80degF I want the fans to come on and of course when it drops, the fans should go off. I don't think a normal HVAC thermostat would work in this situation b/c the contacts would corrode very fast in a SW application, so finding a thermostat is my first 'issue'.
Second, I'm a little confused when it comes to power sources. I believe the fans are 12vDC 500mA. So for two fans would I need a 12vDC 1A power source?
Third, I'd like to be able to control the speed of the fans. In a perfect world I'd like for the temperature to regulate the speed of the fans, ie; 75deg fans come on slow; 80deg fans go to med; 90 deg fans go to high. But I'd settle for being able to set the fans to half speed and be controlled on/off by the thermostat.
I'd also like to have the ability to add more fans later down the road. Could I oversize my power supply in order to build for addition of more fans down the road? For example 4 500mA fans would need a 2A power supply?
Any ideas or suggestions you guys may have on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for any guidance or suggestions!!
Young Frankenstein
New member
Step one find an old computer power supply, is the perfect item for what you need.
Step 2 will be posted after i finish working
Step 2 will be posted after i finish working
rustybucket145
New member
1 computer power supply! Think I've got an old tower in the garage! I'll see if I can locate it tonight.
