uncleof6
Active member
Not to be mean or a jerk, but all things considered, call the electrician back out.
Your Electrician Here
- Thread starter Young Frankenstein
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Not to be mean or a jerk, but all things considered, call the electrician back out.
uncleof6
Active member
T5/HO lighting ballasts are application specific. The T5/HO lamps operate under a completely different specification, than T12, T8, PC, etc. This is in terms of voltage, current limiting, frequency, and starting temperatures/characteristics. The only ballasts that fulfill the specifications for these lamps are the specific T5/HO ballast designed for the lamps wattage rating. T5/HO was also the first lamp specification that did not provide for a magnetic ballast usage, rather only an electronic ballast. The lamp manufacturers have determined the specifications for these lamps, and some ballast companies, and several lighting manufacturers, have been hesitant to provide proper ballasts for them, rather looked for a way to make something work.
huseman808
New member
Yes, this isnt really something that a DIY-er could achieve themselves. I did something similar to what you are speaking of, but I am an electrician as well. Call the pros back.
TheFishTeen
New member
How hard is/was it?
I would love to do that.
I would love to do that.
huseman808
New member
Adding a switches elsewhere would be significantly more difficult and not sure it could be explained in a forum. If you have few enough things to plug in that you can afford to lose one plugin per recepticle you can purchase ones like I used.
Obviously kill the power before doing any work. The drawing on the left is hoe to wire the switched-recpticle, and the one on the right should be close to whats in your wall currently. HTH
Obviously kill the power before doing any work. The drawing on the left is hoe to wire the switched-recpticle, and the one on the right should be close to whats in your wall currently. HTH
wolfador
New member
TheFishTeen
New member
Tank controllers don't really provide 'switch' capabilities. You can program that which is plugged in, but unless you have an APEX or RKE that is connected to the internet or you have your computer lined to the controller there are no switches on the power bar or PC4 that allow you to choose which outlet to power off.
On the other hand, there are DJ Switches, but I have seen multiple cases where they do not fare well with items that have high amperage. I would rather be safe than sorry.
18 month BUMP! Have a question here.
I would like to have a battery backup system that will run my return pump (Mag18) and skimmer pump (Iwaki 55RLT) for 24 hours. That way the system will have oxygenated water. I might also add a Vortech battery backup to boost circulation in the DT, but that will be a different project.
Does anyone know any links for how to make a DIY backup? I've searched through the DIY forum and the Equipment forum and haven't found anything on point.
Also, if the Mag18 and Iwaki are too big to run off of a cheaply-built backup system (hopefully under $300), is there a different return pump that would work better?
EDIT: BTW, I have a 7500kw gas generator that I will rely on in case of extended power outages. My goal here is backup power for the short/medium term.
I would like to have a battery backup system that will run my return pump (Mag18) and skimmer pump (Iwaki 55RLT) for 24 hours. That way the system will have oxygenated water. I might also add a Vortech battery backup to boost circulation in the DT, but that will be a different project.
Does anyone know any links for how to make a DIY backup? I've searched through the DIY forum and the Equipment forum and haven't found anything on point.
Also, if the Mag18 and Iwaki are too big to run off of a cheaply-built backup system (hopefully under $300), is there a different return pump that would work better?
EDIT: BTW, I have a 7500kw gas generator that I will rely on in case of extended power outages. My goal here is backup power for the short/medium term.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Mag 18 = 150W
55RLT = 200W
That is 350W for 24 Hours. I can do the math for you, but you will have roughly $500 in batteries that will need to be replaced every 18-24 months. The DIY inverter true sine wave inverter package at 750 or 100VA (needed for the 350W inductive load) is going to cost you around between $500 and $1500 and will NOT be safe unless you really know what you are doing. An off the shelf UPS that is true sine wave and can handle the large battery string will cost you $3000.
Battery backups are designed to run loads for a few minutes until the generator kicks in (a few seconds). They are cost prohibitive for running loads for more than a few minutes.
Buy a small UPS, setup a relay and an airstone or tiny powerhead. Or save your money and get a few small D Cell powered air pumps. They can run for days.
ebacon
Active member
So i live in STL and needed a sub panel in basement. I ran i think 6 or 4 gauge aluminim wire to subpanel and put it on a 50 amp breaker... how long till my house burns down?
Mark...
Member
I'm working on a basement sump room and would like to tap off an existing 15amp circuit that passes above in the floor joists. Can I pigtail off it and setup a GFI outlet with an additional load outlet? Or do I need to run everything in series?
When I say pigtail, I mean cut existing wire and connect the 3 blacks together, 3 whites together and 3 grounds together. With one set going down to the GFI outlet and its load outlet?
When I say pigtail, I mean cut existing wire and connect the 3 blacks together, 3 whites together and 3 grounds together. With one set going down to the GFI outlet and its load outlet?
fishgate
Active member
Yes, just remember no hidden junction boxes.
Mark...
Member
Thanks for the info....much appriciated.
Mark...
Member
My next question:
In my first house I used Square D breakers. The panel was full and I was able to add a special breaker that controlled two circuit in one slot. Each circuit had its own switch and trip. Worked great.
In my new home my GE panel is full. I found this breaker that seems to do the same job as the square D, but it appears the switches are tied together for a 220 application, not a true two for one breaker.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Elect...r/dp/B000BQSCCG/ref=pd_sxp_f_r#productDetails
Can I separate this for two circuits? Is this designed for a two for one slot application.
In my first house I used Square D breakers. The panel was full and I was able to add a special breaker that controlled two circuit in one slot. Each circuit had its own switch and trip. Worked great.
In my new home my GE panel is full. I found this breaker that seems to do the same job as the square D, but it appears the switches are tied together for a 220 application, not a true two for one breaker.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Elect...r/dp/B000BQSCCG/ref=pd_sxp_f_r#productDetails
Can I separate this for two circuits? Is this designed for a two for one slot application.
woodnaquanut
Active member
First, I'm not an electrician!
I believe you should use:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-THQP115-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000BPB0LC/ref=pd_sim_hi_3
Two of these replace one 15A breaker.
Mark...
Member
Bingo! Thats it! Thanks!
fishgate
Active member
+1 But try to find a 20 amp version. Run 20 amp wiring (12/2).
Mark...
Member
Great point...better to go big now.
In my paranoid days, I would run 12-2 with 15a to be extra safe.
SGT_York
New member
Don't replace a 15 amp breaker with a 20 without replacing the existing wiring. 14 gauge wire will start a fire before a 20 amp breaker is tripped. You can go one 15 amp with the existing 14 wire and add a new 20 amp with 12 wire.
And replacing the wire is for the entire circuit every piece of wire which will require removing parts of your drywall. Also you will likely need a city permit and inspection before adding a new breaker/branch circuit.
And replacing the wire is for the entire circuit every piece of wire which will require removing parts of your drywall. Also you will likely need a city permit and inspection before adding a new breaker/branch circuit.
Mark...
Member
Yes, I am going to run new wire on the additional circuits and leave the old circuits alone with their new thin 15a breaker. In fact in the past to be extra safe, I used 12-2 with 15a breakers, but will go 20a with 12-2 on this project.
