Young Frankenstein
New member
Ok no questions ? ha look what can happen.
Your Electrician Here
- Thread starter Young Frankenstein
- Start date
Young Frankenstein
New member
If you have no experience with electricity, is always best to leave it to the professionals, electricity is no hobby, you can be fried like a potato chip.
Ed Ricketts
New member
That looks like the inside of my thermostatically controlled fan when I cut the red and black and (?)bypassed the control device.
Actually, O.A., I think the device I bought for controlling a fan in my overheating room was designed to turnon/off baseboard heaters, so it's set up to turn on when things are cold, and turn off when they're alittle warmer.
Anyone seen a thermostat that carries 110 load that turns on when it's hot/off when cooler. Or maybe I need to breakdown and figure out the 24v type. Thinkin maybe a greenhouse thermostat, but don't know the first thing about that....
Young Frankenstein
New member
I will find the part number for you from Grainger my friend. Do you have a Grainger close to you ?
Young Frankenstein
New member
Lets talk about ballasts and bulbs. Heres some info.
BruiseAndy
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9610722#post9610722 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ed Ricketts
Anyone seen a thermostat that carries 110 load that turns on when it's hot/off when cooler. Or maybe I need to breakdown and figure out the 24v type. Thinkin maybe a greenhouse thermostat, but don't know the first thing about that....
Line voltage cooling thermostat. You can range in price anywhere from $12-$200 depending on what you want.
Heres a real decent one for cheap I just found
http://cgi.ebay.com/JOHNSON-CONTROL...yZ115948QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Young Frankenstein
New member
Hi Andy, thanks for answering that question, I want to make my own chiller ( they are way overpriced ). I can get my hands on an air conditioning compressor, refrigerator compressor etc. any suggestions or plans ? I have a total of 120gl and I am in Florida.
Ed Ricketts
New member
BA, thanks. if that's a "line voltage" rated device, I'm all set. Muchas gracias!
OA, yep there's a Grainger within 10 minutes of me here in Myrtle Beach,SC. I'll check them out early this week. Helpful thread indeed!
OA, yep there's a Grainger within 10 minutes of me here in Myrtle Beach,SC. I'll check them out early this week. Helpful thread indeed!
douglaslindsey
New member
Hello O Agios. I have a question. My whole tank setup is running off of one Normal wall outlet. I know I should have a GFI put in its place, but I just haven't gotten to it yet, mainly because I might have to put a whole new outlet in for my tank with a dedicated breaker switch for itself. It's a little hard to get to it behind my tank. The barker switch that it uses is a double 20 amp switch (two 20’s). One of the 20amp switches works several outlets in my living room (including the one that my tank is using). The other one I think it runs my microwave in the kitchen (the other side of the wall (at least that is what the breaker switch says). I do not know the total wattage the tank is using but I will list all that I do know and just the names of the components that I don’t know if any. First one day when I was on the road my wife calls me telling me that the tank shout down and many other things in the living room when she plugged in her vacuum to run it. I told (asked) her to unplug the vacuum, and how to go flick the breaker switch in the box. My guess is that I have this breaker switch over loaded. My question is what would be the best thing to do to solve this problem. Note: my box does have 2 extra spots for new breaker switches. Ok, here is what I’m running on my tank: 3 â€"œ 250w MH, 4 â€"œ 96w PC 03’s, 2 â€"œ 4†Ice-Cap fans, 1 667w chiller, One Neptune Aqua controller JR., One ORP controller, One Ozone generator, One air pump, 1 â€"œ 290w Pan World return pump, 1 â€"œ Sendra 5000 pump for ER skimmer (I think it’s 40w), 1 â€"œ 18w PC for fuge tank, 2 â€"œ 250w heaters, 1 10w Eheim 1048 pump for calcium reactor, 1 â€"œ 13.5w Quite-One pump for my kalk reactor, 1 6.5w Rio pump for my Phosban reactor, and last 2 â€"œ 4w 1†Sea Swirls. So now that I’ve listed all, what is the best thing to do in this case? Am I over loading this? Oh one other thing. When my chiller kicks in, my MH’s dim a little. And I’m sure that the chiller and heaters are not running at the same time. Thanks Doug
awestruck
New member
Hi O, it's awe---excellent idea for being RC's professional electrician. So, I have a question (and O, I don't understand electricity at all). I have an outlet on the back wall of my tank---is there any way to physically protect the outlet (something I can buy) to protect that outlet (I'm envisioning something similar to a canopy). I've had problems before and don't want anything to again happen. Also, does a grounding probe really work as far as "catching" an electrical current in the tank? TIA
Aliie
Simply Complicated
Hi there! I tested the Nanocube and the readings varied from .1 to .5 and it flips up and down. Just to make sure I did it right I did test the plug and it read just over 120 volts.
So it looks like I need a tank grounding rod. ANY sugestions as to the type/style or anything else?
Thanks for your help. Now I know why my fish die.
So it looks like I need a tank grounding rod. ANY sugestions as to the type/style or anything else?
Thanks for your help. Now I know why my fish die.
sgallagher7
Member
what is the maximum wattage for a 15 amp circuit?
BruiseAndy
New member
Not to step on toes here O
P=I*E
P= watts
I= amps
E= volts
1725 watts = 15 * 115
but really you only wanna load to 80% so 1725*.8=1380 watts.
for a fun note ever wonder why the maximum vacuum cleaner you can find is 12amps? 80% of a 15 amp circuit braker is 12 amps
O, I will be doing a write up on a full blown DIY chiller sometime soon including a DIY Titanium heat exchanger. I empathize the florida situation, would seem like with the increased heat and humidity you'd have a hard time even trying to use evaporation effectively.
Definitely don't try to use a domestic fridge or freezer to source parts, they just don't have the HP. Probably best to source from an A\C unit as they have a much better duty cycle and are designed to be beat on. Also for A\C 12000 BTU's = 1HP usually so a 5800 BTU window unit would have about the same guts as a 1/2hp chiller would. Something to remeber when sourcing parts.
sgallagher7
Member
Thanks bruceandy. Just wanted to make sure my circut and wall outlet is ready for my tank. I have added it up and it comes to 1000 watts. Just a quick question. I have seen 120 and 115 volts used in equations (yours and ohms law.) I though that the voltage in your house was 110 and to a drier 220?
BruiseAndy
New member
IEC 60038 says its supposed to be 120 so I guess for numbers thats used but on the high end you typically see things labeled 208/230 VAC. Really depends on where you are and who wired ya up. 120 is standard but can vary by +/- 10%.
sgallagher7
Member
Thanks. Just was curious. Digging up memories of my physics class.
Randall_James
Premium Member
The kicker is the "titainium" heat exchanger you need. The rest is pretty simple stuff. Google Mcmasters and check out the catalog... Ebay also has these on occasion..
"some" stainless units will suffice but verifying the alloy is pretty hard to do. (not all stainless is rust proof)
Most compressors laying around are way oversized btw, you need around 1/2hp
BruiseAndy
New member
Think I've figured out a way to do a pretty simple DIY heat exchanger and I will be building one myself soon (waiting on parts). Total cost of exchanger with shipping for parts has been about $90 but that is using all 316L swagelok fittings which add about $30 to cost and are probably not necessary as they wont be exposed to saltwater.
