Your Long Term Review Jebao DC Controllable Return Pump ?

I have a DC 12000, one of the originals. It has been running for almost 3 years. It's my return pump. It pumps from my sump in the basement, through about 15 feet of tubing to my tank upstairs. I have had no problems with it. I clean it every 3 months along with all my other equipment. I do have another, collecting dust in the corner just in case.

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I had a dc 6000 lasted 2 + 1/4 years at 100% with 5 feet of head. you got to have some type of backup no matter what pump you run for your return
 
I have a DCT-6000 (1585gph)on my 125 in the living room runs at 60% ,,over 80% I can hear the whine..
DCT-4000(1086gph) on my 40g breeder AIO runs at 30%
Both have worked well for me..
Bought them on Amazon Nov 20 2015 for $62 and $72..
The 6000 has been running since I bought it..
Started using the 4000 last month..
I plan on ordering two more this payday so I can replace two more ac pumps in my office..

I also have three of the bigger RW series powerheads that have been running since Sept 2015 with no problems. Was four, I had a failure at 6 months on one of them.
 
Quick question about these pumps.

I got a great deal on a brand new DCT 12000 and it will be here in a few days. Do the controllers have a memory if power is cut from and then returned to them? I want to know if I can just use this like my current pump when I put my ReefKeeper in standby and have it turn off, as in power to the outlet goes off, then comes back on after a preset time.

If you have to reset the controller or independently put it into a feed mode, I'll just use it for salt mixing or something.
 
Quick question about these pumps.

I got a great deal on a brand new DCT 12000 and it will be here in a few days. Do the controllers have a memory if power is cut from and then returned to them? I want to know if I can just use this like my current pump when I put my ReefKeeper in standby and have it turn off, as in power to the outlet goes off, then comes back on after a preset time.

If you have to reset the controller or independently put it into a feed mode, I'll just use it for salt mixing or something.

I just got a dcp-8000 If your power goes off the pump will restart at its lowest power setting and then ramp up to where it was before the power failure..

I tested this first thing.I have had it running since Monday its super quiet and i like being able to see the watts drawn by the pump. I run it on 68% and it used 44 watts of power according to its controller..
It did not come with a 1 1/2 inch fitting so i had to make one from a pvc threaded fitting
 
I just got a dcp-8000 If your power goes off the pump will restart at its lowest power setting and then ramp up to where it was before the power failure..

I tested this first thing.I have had it running since Monday its super quiet and i like being able to see the watts drawn by the pump. I run it on 68% and it used 44 watts of power according to its controller..
It did not come with a 1 1/2 inch fitting so i had to make one from a pvc threaded fitting


Excellent. Thank you.

I will also compare power usage between this and my current pump (Eheim 1262) via the Reefkeeper monitoring.
 
Quick question about these pumps.



I got a great deal on a brand new DCT 12000 and it will be here in a few days. Do the controllers have a memory if power is cut from and then returned to them? I want to know if I can just use this like my current pump when I put my ReefKeeper in standby and have it turn off, as in power to the outlet goes off, then comes back on after a preset time.



If you have to reset the controller or independently put it into a feed mode, I'll just use it for salt mixing or something.



Yes. I have the same pump.


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Though I run a jebao/jecod dct 6000 on my skimmer I am done using it as a return after the 3rd failure. I got home today and for the 3rd time the impeller siezed up causing my tank water to get very cold. I swaped out the impeller a month ago as I have a spare that I run while I soak the others in venegar every month. Both pumps 6000 models were purchased the same time. The skimmer pump I run on setting #2 no issues with that one. The one that keeps on failing I run on setting #8. I had to go to old reliable Mag 9.5.
 
I forgot to mention that I have had both pumps for only 10 months. They are both in the sump and the water goes through my filter socks before coming into contact with the DC pumps. Even after a 24 hr soak in 50/50 water vinegar I have found that the ceramic shaft does not spin as freely as it did when they were new. I have a spare adjustable eheim compact 3000 I will use after I run out of impellers as the replacements are $15 each. Both the Eheim and Magdrive have been in use on a prior setup and have been used in my mixing containers for the last 10 months that the Jebao/Jecod replaced them and they are still working like a champ. The DC pumps are fairly quiet and run cooler with less power consumption but at a cost of reliability. Guess you get what you pay for at less than $100 each.
 
I forgot to mention that I have had both pumps for only 10 months. They are both in the sump and the water goes through my filter socks before coming into contact with the DC pumps. Even after a 24 hr soak in 50/50 water vinegar I have found that the ceramic shaft does not spin as freely as it did when they were new. I have a spare adjustable eheim compact 3000 I will use after I run out of impellers as the replacements are $15 each. Both the Eheim and Magdrive have been in use on a prior setup and have been used in my mixing containers for the last 10 months that the Jebao/Jecod replaced them and they are still working like a champ. The DC pumps are fairly quiet and run cooler with less power consumption but at a cost of reliability. Guess you get what you pay for at less than $100 each.

your problem is calcium precipitation on the impeller shaft. not the pumps fault. you are either dosing alk too close to the pump, dosing too much at once or dosing using soda ash (sodium carbonate). If you're using soda ash try switching to sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). I have run these pumps for two years straight without cleaning and when inspected had no calcium build up on the impeller shaft.
 
I have a DC12000 and it does not reliably start anymore. I'm happy with the pump but the electronics inside are a big unknown. My theory is that it has some resistance to turning and at the lower speeds (like when it ramps up to start), it can't overcome the friction. I think that it then senses that it's "jammed" and shits down for safety. The only way to get it going is to spin it up by hand as you plug it in.
 
your problem is calcium precipitation on the impeller shaft. not the pumps fault. you are either dosing alk too close to the pump, dosing too much at once or dosing using soda ash (sodium carbonate). If you're using soda ash try switching to sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). I have run these pumps for two years straight without cleaning and when inspected had no calcium build up on the impeller shaft.

The other DCT 6000 is in the chamber before the return running the skimmer and it has not has the same issue. I do dose soda ash but it gets dosed in the overflow section and goes through a filter sock before the skimmer section. The pump that has had the issues is in the return area. Thanks for the heads up on the sodium bicarbonate its worth trying out. BTW I dose 4 ml of brs soda ash every hr ill try doing the baking soda instead.
 
The other DCT 6000 is in the chamber before the return running the skimmer and it has not has the same issue. I do dose soda ash but it gets dosed in the overflow section and goes through a filter sock before the skimmer section. The pump that has had the issues is in the return area. Thanks for the heads up on the sodium bicarbonate its worth trying out. BTW I dose 4 ml of brs soda ash every hr ill try doing the baking soda instead.

I just installed a DCP-8000 I Will maybe make a new thread to and update it as time goes alone to see if they have similar issues . I still have my MAG DRIVE Hard plumbed in just in case..
my only fear is electronic failure ... the mag 9.5 thou is 22 years old..
i would never expect a dc pump ran by electronics to last that long but the power savings and less heat so less chiller running in the summer it might add up..
i was running reeflow hammerhead ..
 
I have a DCT12000 sitting inside the sump but have noticed the fitting nozzle thread isn't fitted correctly causing water to spill out, there is a gasket in between but it does help at all. Anyone notice something like this and any fix to this.

Also the controller is so frail that I feel the rubber/plastic piece might come apart one of these days.
 
My DCT 4000 lasted 5 months before needing to go to the trash. Absolutely could not get the thing going after it quit. Cleaned with vinegar, no obstructions, just would not turn the impeller.
 
Depending on how long you didn't clean it, the impellers can build up gunk or Calcium between the moving blade rotor and the middle shaft. When that happens, they will lock up and seem to be a single unit. At that point, a vinegar dip isn't enough. The acid can't get through to the buildup. I've even tried full strength HCL (muratic) but it just can't access it.

The solution is to mechanically break the gunk by twisting the shaft and rotor apart. This can be very difficult. There are special tools for doing this since they're both ceramic and there are notches for properly gripping them. Unfortunately, I have no such tools... so, I've used lock pliers and table vice grips with rubber bands for surface grab without shattering and slowly, eventually, I can get them to free up. Haven't cracked one yet but it is difficult.

Then acid bath. Sometimes through, the gunk was sharp (like sand) and it can actually wear away the interfaces between the surfaces. In those cases, I've used fine grit sand paper to smooth them out. The downside is that this makes the gap tolerance larger meaning that the likelihood of another event gets higher.

Why all this hassle? These pumps should be removed and cleaned every 3-6 months. When I didn't do it, I got a lock up. As long as I follow my maintenance schedule, no issues... I keep a spare of almost every kind I have and I swap them in to maintain the cleaning schedule. It's part of tank maintenance in my book. Why bother? Because the German pumps that cost 3x to 10x are a ripoff in my view. I'll pay with a little preventative maintenance.

Out of the nearly 16 pumps & powerheads I have and use, two have had an electrical issue but those are from my earliest usage ~ 4 years old.

Doing the math, I'm still way ahead on cost vs benefit.

What would make the pumps really better would be if new impellers were available for sale at a good price or if the cleaning tools were sold to the public. I've only found a couple of impeller types available.
 
Depends on the price of a pump failure. I travel and pump failure isn't really a good option. A year is not acceptable to me.
 
Depends on the price of a pump failure. I travel and pump failure isn't really a good option. A year is not acceptable to me.

Agreed, if I traveled id put my Iwaki back on.

The DCP line is at this time, as good as any other affordable DC pump. I have not seen one that holds up with credibility or reliability. At this time it seems to be the nature of cheaper DC pumps.

I have a rare dcp 2500 on my calcium reactor, and a dcp 10000 for my return. Hopefully I'm one of the 2-3 year plus guys. We will see.
 
I run them in parallel lines. Redundancy allows me to run even if one or two fail... but with proper maintenance, that shouldn't happen.
 
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