YWG - Day 6 and still kicking

Nicole,

Are you going to post some pics of the aeration cage you built or is it in another thread?

Good luck with this lot.

Steve
 
My walls are painted flat black but there is a population that hugs the wall. I think your assessment earlier explains it. It is a method of food capture as long as the food gathers on the edges.
Cheers,
Kathy
 
Very interesting -- the skinny ones look a little fatter today. They don't get the midriff bulge like the clowns do, so it's hard to tell.

It may be too late for these guys, but the next batch will definately have back and sides covered.
 
P.S. Order a dissolved O2 test today as well, so I can get a handle on that one way or another. It also occured to me that I have extra felt pads that go on my Luft pump intake -- they must have been included for a reason. Maybe it needs to be replaced?
 
The SeaChem Marine Buffer might be more appropriate if you want to force pH up. You could ask in the chemistry forum, but I think it has borates for this purpose. How much difference it would make, I don't know.
 
Black larval tanks are pretty common in aquaculture so I would definitely give that a try so they can see the rotifers better. Keep at it and you will get it soon!
 
Buffer will restore alkalinity, which you have told us is already high (and therefore not a concern). Don't add more.

CO2 retention essentially has two effects in an aquarium (1) lowers pH via production of carbonic acid, and (2) lowering the affinity for O2.

Degas the CO2 and you will improve conditions greatly.
 
The alkalinity issue was fixed a while ago with water changes. pH is holding steady at 8.25; just doing daily water changes.

I have not lost any gobies since covering the back and sides and they look good; active and eating. I still have at least 8 -- exactly 8, I think, but I counted 8 at once. I am not seeing them settle out, though, and they should be doing so by now.

I added the aeration cage this morning.
 
On 1/15 you stated that you had used buffer to raise pH and that the alkalinity was high. The water change(s) therefore had no net change in terms of 'raising' the alkalinity, as it was already high.

So, alkalinity wasn't fixed since it wasn't off in the first place.

You also stated that your pH was 7.9 prior to the aeration test, and now your pH is 8.25. Why do you not think that warrants consideration in terms of increased larval vitality?

I'm not suggesting that the black tank wall covering is insignificant, but you are changing quite a few variables which I think are important and need to be considered just as thoroughly.
 
An Alk over 16 dKh seems pretty damned high to me. And I corrected it to be LOWER with water changes. pH was also incidentally raised to 8.25 with said water changes.

7.9 is for many larval species a perfectly acceptable pH. It may not be so for these gobies, but I have no reason to think they are different in this respect. Its not as if the pH was 7.5 or some such ridiculously low number. Since I am using Clor-Am-X, I do not need to worry about a pH of 8.25, which is pretty high.

OTOH, the dying fish were skinny and wasting away; I covered the back of the tank and the survivors immediately moved to the center of the tank and started eating. I could literally see cause and effect within minutes. They don't get fat like the clowns but at least they have bulges in their middles now.

THE cause for improvement? I can't say. But it is one which I can specifically identify, whereas everything else is speculation.

When the O2 test arrives (which is backordered, of course) I can check that item, but I really have no concerns about a pH of 7.9, in fact, its pretty close to what I'd like to see provided the O2 levels are okay. My error -- if indeed it was the fatal item -- was in overusing the buffer instead of addressing the root causes of the pH drop, not the pH itself.

IMO.
 
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