Zoas For Beginners

[SchmittyG]

I need some tips. From water flow, to placement of the zoa, I want it to work out and so far never really has. I got one that's sort of doing ok, but not really, and two that have really gone under. Wondering about feeding too? Is there a link or anything on some basic rules to getting a good zoa garden going?

 

[Copingsaw]

Zoas are typically hardy and fairly accepting of a variety of lighting levels and water flow. For that reason, they are usually a good beginner coral. I think it is generally accepted that different varieties may have different needs in terms in lighting and flow. You may need to experiment with placement. It may also help if you describe your tanks lighting and circulation.

In terms of feeding, I've found that zoas will generally survive and even grow with little to no feeding. They do, however, seem to do better when you are feeding your tank foods that are considered beneficial to corals. I use Rod's Food. Direct feeding is not necessary.

If you are having trouble with zoas, I would first consider water quality issues as a potential problem. Do you have other corals that are doing well?

 

[SchmittyG]

I just tested my water last night. The Calcium is perfect and the other levels are pretty much right on point too. The nitrate is a little high, Ill do a water change today. I run power compact light and a hydor rotating filter on my return pump, a Noxia on the right side and another return power head on the right top shooting upward to break the top of the water up... Seems like when all three are on it's too much flow, and when I turn one of it's not quite enough. Maybe I need to try different angles etc...

 

[SchmittyG]

And yes, all my other items are doing well. I have a frogspawn that looks like it is suffering a little but all the mushrooms are doing awesome. Ill post a picture in a while.

 

[Scopus Tang]

While zoas are often stated to be a good beginning coral, I personally have found that tank maturity plays a role in successfully being able to keep them long term. So my question would be, how old is your tank/set-up? Sounds like it may be fairly new yet.

 

[SchmittyG]

No actually the tank is a few years old, I think three and a half, maybe four this February... I just haven't paid a lot of attention to it at times, but I just recently got really back into it. Just did a big water change and tested the water last night and everything looked really on point. Call me crazy, but I really believe it 's a flow issue...

 

[SchmittyG]

Also, in a side note: what is something good that will keep my sand clean in a small tank(I have a 29g Nano). I once had a sand sifting goby but he cleaned the tank with in the first week and then I believe starved, not enough for him to do...

 

[Copingsaw]

It sounds to me like your water quality may be good now but has recently been suspect. I would stay on top of that as it is the most likely cause for your issues. Then experiment with placement and flow.

 

[Scopus Tang]

Agree with the above poster; IME KH is a significant factor in long term zoa health, so if your tank has simply been running without maintainence for awhile, fluctuations in dKH may account for zoa loses. Stable water parameters should be your first priority, then flow. Flow should be strong enough to move the skirts of the zoa, but not strong enough to make it close up. Light you will simply have to experiment with, by moving the zoas up and down in your tank to see where they do best. HTH

As far as keeping the sandbed clean, I would look into some nascarious ("sp") snails.

 

[SchmittyG]

So it looks like all this time, I haven't been testing the PH or the KH... I just got those test kits today. The PH was low,and I did a water change and bought some PH buffer. Haven't tested the KH yet, but might need to get some KH buffer as well? Once these have gotten back to normal, I hope to see results. Weird how everything but the zoas are doing good even in bad water conditions. Although looks like the frogspawn are starting to bleach now... WATER CHANGE more often is my resolution. Do you guys buy water from the store or do your own mixes. What's the easiest with best results? Or do those two words 'easy and best results' not go hand in hand?

 

[santarosasalt]

Its usually always cheaper to make your own water. Even if you don't have an ro/di setup. When I had a 29 gallon I would buy walmart distlled water and make my own saltwater. If you buy saltwater from lfs make sure you test it first I have read horror stories of lfs selling dirty water and you just don't know that the salinity is correct.

 

[mbingha]

You say the tank is 3 1/2 yrs old, and you haven't really done much to maintain it lately, so my question is when was the last time the bulbs were replaced? Even tho you may not notice much loss in light, the bulbs need replacing at least every year. The PAR drops significantly after that, and your corals will lose their color and start to die. If they are original bulbs, id change those, and continue weekly 10% water changes to reduce nitrates.

 

[CarltonsReef]

The ugly ones always do best

 

[SchmittyG]

You say the tank is 3 1/2 yrs old, and you haven't really done much to maintain it lately, so my question is when was the last time the bulbs were replaced? Even tho you may not notice much loss in light, the bulbs need replacing at least every year. The PAR drops significantly after that, and your corals will lose their color and start to die. If they are original bulbs, id change those, and continue weekly 10% water changes to reduce nitrates.

I change my lights every xmas, it's easy for me to remember. Im really sold on the fact that something has been munching on them. The zoas and the star polyps are not just closed, most of them are GONE. I never dipped any of my rocks and just learned about that. Now wondering if I should take everything out, dip it and put back in. But then theres still a chance stuff could be in the sand... I dont want to start over if I dont have to. God that would suck!

 

[AC2020x]

Yeah that is rough... A few things I would suggest....
1. Look into a quality reef salt... I'm using oceanic on my 29g and currently making it into a reef tank.

2. Dip and QT all live things before placing them into your display tank. It may be difficult at this point and i''m not sure if dipping would help but I don't see why it would hurt. I am planning on only QTing my corals for a short period 2-3 days to make sure I don't see any pests.

3. If worried about your Levels you need to worry about that a lot of people may not think about include PH/KH/Calcium and Magnesium... I would suggest getting a good test kit for each of these such as salfiert or elos... though they are expensive they are worth it.
Then on Bulkreefsupply they have a great 2 part mixing kit for raising KH and calcium that your coral needs. It also includes magnesium that you want to get to 1350ish to maintain good calcium and KH levels. Also by adding this their recipe 1 formula will up your PH. These things will all be good for your tank and corals.

4. What could also help depending on what you feed your tank is reef chili.. they sell it on bulk reef supply as well and i've heard great things about it providing your corals with everything they could need foodwise... however a lot of people find it unnecessary.

5. Also make sure you test things like phosphates and nitrates and have proper filtration for them.

 

[SchmittyG]

Well this is my current plan for this weekend-what do you think?

Take all my rocks/corals out of my tank; dip each one individually and then rebuild the seascape possibly omitting a few suspect pieces...Also want to get some type of wrasse just so I can cross off the list the possibility that things are eating the zoas.

I REALLY would like to add zoo's to my tank that can remain healthy and grow and add beautiful colors to my tank.

 

[~RuSh~]

Just my 2 cents here:

So you've had the tank up and running for 3-4 years, but water quality may have been inconsistent for that time. I would take care of that first. Consistency is key. (Consistently good that is. ) If your nitrates are up and down, and you're moving and dipping, we'll never know what the cause of the problem is. Get into the habit of testing your water parameters, and keep your nitrates at an acceptable range and you're on the right track.

Look into an RODI unit. Most of us make our own water. And with a quality reef salt mix, GH and KH levels are usually not an issue as those levels are replenished with water changes. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and I've had good results.

Doing the dip is fine, but again, it depends on what you think is munching on them. Nudibranchs will go down with Coral Rx or Revive, or FWE, but if they are Zoa pox, you'll need to dip with Furan 2.

We would like to help you but I think the first priority should be getting parameters stable along with RO water.

 

[SchmittyG]

Yeah, I think the water has been pretty consistant now for a while(Six Months). I have been however thinking I should get the RODI unit, at times I top off with tap water which probably isn't a good idea. Im still convinced that my problems mostly lie in bad water flow and something eating my zoas...

I tested the water last night and everything is looking really good. Super frustrated cause it's all I think about from the minute I wake up til bed. I want a good tank!!!
thanks for any help

 

[~RuSh~]

What exactly makes you believe they are being eaten? Do you have any pictures by chance? Have you looked for nudibranchs? Do you have any other fish in the tank that could be bothering the zoas?

 

[SchmittyG]

I just have a clown fish, but he's getting taken to the LFS today hopefully. He's too agro. He bites my arm and is way too cozy in that tank... I doubt he'd be eating zoas though. Here's a photo of the zoa rock thats bumming. The circle goes around the whole Zoo, that at one time was full and healthy, now you can see just the tips have polyps...

The reason I think they're being eaten is because everything else in the tank is doing relatively well... Mushrooms, Frogspawn, etc..