It's been in the tank for two months. EXACTLY how long do you think he needs to "let it acclimate?"
Kevin
1 Year in, 2 months with life fish -rbta killing me
- Thread starter Toddcee
- Start date
It's been in the tank for two months. EXACTLY how long do you think he needs to "let it acclimate?"
Kevin
Wow thank you everyone for the posts... You all agree that it is bleached. Since I am a beginner I did not recognize this at the lfs. However; it was very close to this color when I purchased it and was fully out swaying in the water.
So what I've gotten out of this is:
* Feed it more (but it doesn't eat)
* Don't feed it
* squirt mysis
* I need better lighting (but I have a Current USA Orbit Marine LED)
* I should dim lighting
* I need to increase (or not) sg
* My tank is too small
* Quarantine it
I have not moved it, even last night it moved. I must have accidentally unplugged the light last night and it did not come on this morning. I noticed it was outstretched but the tentacles were still closed. That's a huge step.
Narrowing down to two pieces of advise for a test period, I will dim the lights around the rbta for a few days (this may be difficult because the mini carpet is right next to it.) It also obviously needs to eat - though it never opens up and closes tightly whenever I put anything near it. I'll try mysis, but is squirting it good enough?
Thank you all for your advise. I'll keep you posted. I don't want this ANEMONE to perish.
So what I've gotten out of this is:
* Feed it more (but it doesn't eat)
* Don't feed it
* squirt mysis
* I need better lighting (but I have a Current USA Orbit Marine LED)
* I should dim lighting
* I need to increase (or not) sg
* My tank is too small
* Quarantine it
I have not moved it, even last night it moved. I must have accidentally unplugged the light last night and it did not come on this morning. I noticed it was outstretched but the tentacles were still closed. That's a huge step.
Narrowing down to two pieces of advise for a test period, I will dim the lights around the rbta for a few days (this may be difficult because the mini carpet is right next to it.) It also obviously needs to eat - though it never opens up and closes tightly whenever I put anything near it. I'll try mysis, but is squirting it good enough?
Thank you all for your advise. I'll keep you posted. I don't want this ANEMONE to perish.
Rjukan
Day Dreamer
I agree with this post.
davocean
Active member
It would probably take a couple days to see it's response o shaded light, and at least a week or two to notice change in color.
I would continue this and squirt myisis twice weekly, stay on WC's
This is to help it survive, later think about tank size.
Keep pumps and intakes blocked or covered to keep from harm.
Thank you. I plan on upgrading eventually to a larger tank. Right now the rtba is the size of a nickle.
mcgyvr
New member
Interesting salinity level image...
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/aquarius/multimedia/gallery/pia14786.html
salinity range from 30-40 PPT (1.0226-1.0302)
And whats the "average"... 1.0264
Don't take my post here as saying/agreeing that people saying he needs to raise his salinity are correct..
1.024 is not an issue at all for me and I wouldn't do a darn thing about it..
Stability is more important than any specific number in the acceptable range IMO..
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/aquarius/multimedia/gallery/pia14786.html
salinity range from 30-40 PPT (1.0226-1.0302)
And whats the "average"... 1.0264
Don't take my post here as saying/agreeing that people saying he needs to raise his salinity are correct..
1.024 is not an issue at all for me and I wouldn't do a darn thing about it..
Stability is more important than any specific number in the acceptable range IMO..
If your carpet is doing ok I would be inclined to think it's not the lighting, I missed that you had the carpet too, my personal thought is that it was shipped to the lfs stressed and bleached, they should not have sold it like that... You are now trying to destress and revitalize it so I feel like you should try to keep everything the same in your tank, don't go changing a bunch of stuff or it's only going to get more stressed. Try to feed but don't get down on yourself if it doesn't eat right away, squirting mysis from a distance into it should get it to feed if it's going to and just monitor it.
As for your tank being to small I agree with day above, worry about that later, I had a buddy that had a rbt in a 30 for a long time, evenly traded it in due to size, it will outgrow the tank but that little guy is just fine for the time being imo.
As for your tank being to small I agree with day above, worry about that later, I had a buddy that had a rbt in a 30 for a long time, evenly traded it in due to size, it will outgrow the tank but that little guy is just fine for the time being imo.
Thanks Kmack. I called the lfs and explained the entire situation, including much of the advise all of you fine folks have provided. They were at a loss and couldn't recommend what to do. They charged me $40 for it ($10 off because it was small) and didn't offer any assistance at all. Very disappointed.
Will try squirting mysis this weekend and just let the little guy do its thing. I heard once an anemone dies, it is very difficult to clean up. This is my biggest fear.
Just be watchful of it, if they go from my understanding the biggest thing is letting them sit, hoping for them to make a recovery, causes the issue, if it's mouth starts to gape and it looks like it's going down hill get it out, better to lose 40$ than lose everything in your tank.
My lfs had a green haddoni carpet I was going to buy, was being held for me but the owner who is become good friends with had me leave it up there to check it out. Glad I did because over the course of about two weeks it went down hill, going from gaping to looking good back to gaping and then lost its footing on the rock and it was over. They had it in a small tank, the rest of the life in there was feeling it you could tell the gbt that was in the tank started gapibg, they did a wc and the next day the gbt was looking good. So moral of the story, just keep an eye on it and do what you can to bring it back, if it survives pat yourself on the back for saving it!
My lfs had a green haddoni carpet I was going to buy, was being held for me but the owner who is become good friends with had me leave it up there to check it out. Glad I did because over the course of about two weeks it went down hill, going from gaping to looking good back to gaping and then lost its footing on the rock and it was over. They had it in a small tank, the rest of the life in there was feeling it you could tell the gbt that was in the tank started gapibg, they did a wc and the next day the gbt was looking good. So moral of the story, just keep an eye on it and do what you can to bring it back, if it survives pat yourself on the back for saving it!
JustAClownFish
Member
Exactly. I was about to post something yesterday that would have ****ed a couple people off. I'm so sick and tired of this internet wisdom number chasing thing. If you look at the salinities of natural reefs, they range from 32 to 40 PPT. So why the heck do I have to have my tank at 1.026 for the best overall coloration, health or whatever? The question I asked myself as a beginner was: What happens to the cells within the coral if the salinity is not spot on 1.026. Did you know what I found? Nothing. They operate in a specific range and as long as you are in that range you are FINE.
I know a bubble tip reefer (20+ RBTA in her tank) and she keeps her tank at 1.023. Internet wisdom has it that the RBTA's should have been dead a long time ago because it's waaaay too low. She should keep her tank at 1.026 for best health right!?!? Blahblahblah. Blah blubb blah. Reefcentral, the forum for 'I want my post counts to go up so I regurgitate internet wisdom" experts. I'm out.
davocean
Active member
I agree stability is more important than the actual number when it comes to salinity, we are just giving a range to shoot for and help the process of elimination.
As for your LFS, most don't know a a whole lot about anemone's, and BTA's being most popular and forgiving probably base most info or advice pertaining to them and even there lies a bit of confusion and misunderstandings, much like the assumption that continuous splitting/reproduction is a sign of success.
Most that propigate BTA's actually produce more by stressing them, BTA's clone off to seek better conditions in which to survive.
As for your LFS, most don't know a a whole lot about anemone's, and BTA's being most popular and forgiving probably base most info or advice pertaining to them and even there lies a bit of confusion and misunderstandings, much like the assumption that continuous splitting/reproduction is a sign of success.
Most that propigate BTA's actually produce more by stressing them, BTA's clone off to seek better conditions in which to survive.
davocean
Active member
It cracks me up when someone comes on, and says I did not bother to read other people's comments, but I'm going to throw my comment on here as the one you should believe.
It also cracks me up when someone pokes at someone assuming their post count was just racked up.
I see tons of posts that would allow me to magnify that if that is what I wanted, but if you took the time to read more than write as I do, you'd probably see I normally respond to areas I have stronger value.
If I was trying to rack posts I could probably add a dozen right this minute w/ "nice tank" or, yep, that's a pineapple sponge...
My source of info on anemone's comes from 33 years of keeping them and observing them, not just a guy down the street that propigates BTA's which are normally stupid easy to keep, and actually having failures in keeping proper conditions makes them multiply.
Giving that as an example of success to me is parroting of internet misinformation at it's finest
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Yep, and then says do not feed the anemone because you will kill it, and recommends not feeding an obviously bleached anemone because it is still acclimating (after two months in the tank).
But they know what they know because they "know someone" who has had 30+ clones in their tank (I had several hundred clones in the 18 years I was keeping RBTAs).
But, then again, I was probably just padding my post count on RC to look like an internet expert.
Kevin
Looks to be promising, definitely coming out a bit, hopefully making headway! With any luck it will start to eat and color back up.
Except my carpet is just about to fall out of its rock. Turned lights back up and the mini is recovering but rbta is shriveling back up. Maybe a rock over top of it?
davocean
Active member
I would screen off the area only above the BTA if you can, something safe from light heat, sometimes people do this w/ eggcrate.
It's pretty common a bleached nem will not like harsh light, often they will move to a cave and probably just perish.
Anyway, it's good to hear it looked better w/ lower light, but try not to disrupt rest of tank in giving that
It's pretty common a bleached nem will not like harsh light, often they will move to a cave and probably just perish.
Anyway, it's good to hear it looked better w/ lower light, but try not to disrupt rest of tank in giving that
davocean
Active member
Yep, and then says do not feed the anemone because you will kill it, and recommends not feeding an obviously bleached anemone because it is still acclimating (after two months in the tank).
But they know what they know because they "know someone" who has had 30+ clones in their tank (I had several hundred clones in the 18 years I was keeping RBTAs).
But, then again, I was probably just padding my post count on RC to look like an internet expert.
Kevin
Lol, not only did I like your comment, but now I'm at 14,487, chicks dig high post counts!:lol:
A little curious about this salinity talk (sorry to distract too much from the nem post.)
It would seem from that image most "œreef" areas are 35-36ppt salinity. Wouldn't it make sense to try and mimic the area your corals came from more than shoot for a specific number? If you're getting CA maricultured/wild coral, yeah shoot a bit lower. But everywhere else with reef life seemed higher. And if it's aquacultured perhaps finding out what sg they kept their system at?
I keep mine at 35ppt because that's "œgood" and it's also been what the salinity of the water I've had several pieces shipped to me in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It would seem from that image most "œreef" areas are 35-36ppt salinity. Wouldn't it make sense to try and mimic the area your corals came from more than shoot for a specific number? If you're getting CA maricultured/wild coral, yeah shoot a bit lower. But everywhere else with reef life seemed higher. And if it's aquacultured perhaps finding out what sg they kept their system at?
I keep mine at 35ppt because that's "œgood" and it's also been what the salinity of the water I've had several pieces shipped to me in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
