karimwassef
Active member
it took a while to capture the walkthrough so I'm going to post the images tonight and then explain over the week ![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
ok.. here's the end view as it stands...
and here it is without the reef cover:
and without the screened-in reef room:
the design has morphed into a coral reef inside of a pool. The pool is basically a moat (U shaped actually) and the pool water is separate from the reef water but there are windows that allow viewing inside the reef from underwater in the pool. This is a wife-compromise and the reef is 20% smaller now at 8' x 16' x 5.5' deep. The pool is 20' x 30' x 4'. The sump is the part of the pool that is separated behind the reef and that's 5' x 20' x 4'.
The surge tanks are 4' x 8' x 6' and the return surge fuge is 4' x 8' x 2.5'
But it all starts with building the pool... on a very strict DIY budget!
Here's the starting point:
the first step is the deep excavation for the geothermal loops. First, the air cooling loops that go down about 8'
and then a foot above that, the water cooling loops:
Both are PVC loops and the excavations are filled in with sand which is wetted and then compressed... Is it perfect? No, but it's an opportunity to reduce my cooling costs in the summer.
The excavation is then expanded in area to put in the pool and plumbing. The first step is a gravel base:
Then a waterproofing plastic layer and a 4" insulation layer to reduce heat loss in the winter (pink). Then the pool plumbing. There are two bottom drains and 2 pool skimmers connected to the pool equipment back beside the house. I also added 3 "conduit" channels underground made of 4" PVC for electricity and water connections over time. I'm also adding PEX heating loops at this point.
The challenge is to keep the pool at 73F or warmer during the upcoming Texas winter. If I can't do that, then I have no chance of keeping a reef alive. Either I make an all-year pool first, or ... no reef. That's the driving force behind all the insulation, the heating coils, and the swimming pool moat. The idea is that the pool water volume would act as a giant thermal battery. If it's under a greenhouse structure, it should continue to hold on to heat.
ok.. here's the end view as it stands...
![0_zps2vq42ujr.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2F0_zps2vq42ujr.png&hash=ed3e2608394f9af59d94dd4b95612fb2)
and here it is without the reef cover:
![1_zpsu9fc5vqe.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2F1_zpsu9fc5vqe.png&hash=a0a3b7d219b344d931d584b30e05a41d)
and without the screened-in reef room:
![2_zpsgkz2zveo.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2F2_zpsgkz2zveo.png&hash=264abe4aba8c2effeafb14c8fb7e40ca)
the design has morphed into a coral reef inside of a pool. The pool is basically a moat (U shaped actually) and the pool water is separate from the reef water but there are windows that allow viewing inside the reef from underwater in the pool. This is a wife-compromise and the reef is 20% smaller now at 8' x 16' x 5.5' deep. The pool is 20' x 30' x 4'. The sump is the part of the pool that is separated behind the reef and that's 5' x 20' x 4'.
The surge tanks are 4' x 8' x 6' and the return surge fuge is 4' x 8' x 2.5'
But it all starts with building the pool... on a very strict DIY budget!
![p0_zps8uv3kdvk.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fp0_zps8uv3kdvk.png&hash=c25ecc8fb4d14bc9ea562f1c59a6cd0f)
Here's the starting point:
![q1_zpsa1qnbndv.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fq1_zpsa1qnbndv.png&hash=e31b19a351886496a66ae4abe56a1e39)
the first step is the deep excavation for the geothermal loops. First, the air cooling loops that go down about 8'
![q2_zpssfk6y0kd.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fq2_zpssfk6y0kd.png&hash=aa2e35e0a328992328964022a223f0a5)
and then a foot above that, the water cooling loops:
![q3_zpsywy0puz0.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fq3_zpsywy0puz0.png&hash=722bc108c700ae6914669ebbd4012a7a)
Both are PVC loops and the excavations are filled in with sand which is wetted and then compressed... Is it perfect? No, but it's an opportunity to reduce my cooling costs in the summer.
The excavation is then expanded in area to put in the pool and plumbing. The first step is a gravel base:
![q4_zps6wzyhrv6.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fq4_zps6wzyhrv6.png&hash=915cbe148c277e3d4f5a52bf7e3e8d9f)
Then a waterproofing plastic layer and a 4" insulation layer to reduce heat loss in the winter (pink). Then the pool plumbing. There are two bottom drains and 2 pool skimmers connected to the pool equipment back beside the house. I also added 3 "conduit" channels underground made of 4" PVC for electricity and water connections over time. I'm also adding PEX heating loops at this point.
![q5_zpsc9zvqddz.png](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft496%2Fkarimwassef%2FDesigns%2Fq5_zpsc9zvqddz.png&hash=e854d08291da05ffb76bc69482c1a188)
The challenge is to keep the pool at 73F or warmer during the upcoming Texas winter. If I can't do that, then I have no chance of keeping a reef alive. Either I make an all-year pool first, or ... no reef. That's the driving force behind all the insulation, the heating coils, and the swimming pool moat. The idea is that the pool water volume would act as a giant thermal battery. If it's under a greenhouse structure, it should continue to hold on to heat.