120 upgrade......

Man over two weeks since the last update, told ya it would be slow. So no real progress on the tank itself, but I went last night and bought all the plumbing and elsectrical I would need. Eight outlets all tied into a GFCI and the pipe and fittings for teh overflow ran almost $100! I was figureing around 50, but ehh do it right now.
Looking into building the C2C, I realized I will need some acrylic that is five feet long to make it work. A full 4x8 sheet 1/4" thick is $125!!! So, can I two piece the C2C and glue it together and still have a good working overflow? I'm figureing that I will put every thing together with weld on #3or #4.
 
Someone please take a look at these measurements before I go drilling and making my tank unsafe. Tank is 60" long. 24", 30", and 36" over and 2 1/2" down from the brace would be the center of my holes, which gives me 1 1/2" from the top of the hole to the bottom of the brace.
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Also just for kicks, here is my 40gal breeder I'm going to use for my sump.
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It's taking longer then I thought to get going, but now I have fish in QT waiting to go in. Hopefully I'll find the time this weekend to drill, paint, plumb, and setup the sump.
 
Sorry, been offline lately, the spacing looks fine. Are you gonna add elbows for the drains? If so, make sure you can accommodate for that. You can cut notches in the elbows to set the water line, so not too much concern as to where you put the holes as long as they are an inch away from the edge of the glass (which you are). Did you drill them? Lets see some pics.
 
In the process of drilling them after work. Got stalled cause my little girl ended up in the hospital. Hope to get them done tonight.
 
I hope you daughter is OK!

Yes thank you, doing better. Went to the doc Friday thinking she had a cold, then got sent to the ER with bronchitis/pneumonia. Turned out to be bronchialitis. She is home, but nebulizer every six hours. :eek2:


Well tonight I got some progress made finally

Drilled
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and painted
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hopefully tomorrow I can start plumbing. Which brings me to a question I have thanks to Petco. 120g display, should I use a 40b or a regular 55 for the sump? Either are available, just which would serve the purpose better?
 
Well the obvious answer is the 55, "the solution to pollution is dilution" but certain variables may make the decision for you. Like, can you fit the 55 in the stand? Is one tank taller then the other? If so can you easily remove your skimmer and other large equipment for periodic cleaning while in the stand? And if you have enough room in the stand for storage of any other dry goods, cleaning supplies etc? If the answer is yes then go for it. If not the 40 may be your alternative.
 
You, Rayn, my friend, are a terrible, terrible, terrible influence. I am headed to Petco to buy a 55 gal for QT. I've decided to use my 14gal Biocube as a refugium instead. Just terrible ;)
 
Yes the 55 will fit so ill use it. I was hoping that was the answer I would get. 40 will be used elsewhere.
Careful palting, buying tanks get addicting. I got lucky and found the 40b but then got a new 55 just cause. I really like the dollar a gallon sale.
 
I really like the dollar a gallon sale.

Ditto! I just wish they had it for larger tanks! LOL! Even at $2 a gallon would be great. I almost got a new 120 gal AGA tank from a local aquarium store/servicing company for $240 a few weeks ago, but I didn't have the extra $$$ at the time they had them on clearance.

Tank progress looks good! I wouldn't think there would be a problem making the overflow with two pieces glued together. I'm planning to make a new sump out of scrap pieces just to save costs, and will probably end up piecing part of it together, using black acrylic for my integrated ATO reservoir and clear or white for the rest of it. Luckily I can get 1'x4' scrap pieces for like $5 each from a local place. As long as the ends are flat and square, you should be OK, and quite a few dollars richer.
 
Tank is back up on the stand with the 55 underneath. I have to add some extra bracing for the 55 as it just sits on the outer right bottom and the center bottom brace. Gonna try and get some of the electrical and plumbing done yet tonight, but who knows.

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palting, you get your tank? Terrible or not, I love being a influence :spin3:
 
Yeah, that fits nicely in there. While working on your electrical make sure you change that receptacle behind the tank to a GFCI. Trust me it's easier to do it now rather than when you have water in the tank.

I just set my 125 back up and forgot to put that in there. now I have to work around the sump. I though that I could find a receptacle in front of the circuit and add it there but it looks like the one behind the tank is the first one in the circuit. *sigh* you live you learn... ;)
 
Already bought and ready to change. Bought two double gang boxes for outlets in the stand that will come from that outlet.
 
Mocking up the overflows...they have to have the slats cut in them yet. The far bulkhead is a return and there is one on the other side. They will both be plumbed back through the C2C
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I am wondering though, how low to place the C2C. I was thinking about a inch below the top of the bracing. Or am I thinking wrong. Would a half inch be better. I really don't want to see the top of the water line if at all possible.
 
I am wondering though, how low to place the C2C. I was thinking about a inch below the top of the bracing. Or am I thinking wrong. Would a half inch be better. I really don't want to see the top of the water line if at all possible.

That is a tricky thing to do because the water pumps GPH has a lot to do with it. IIRC I put it right at the lower portion of the plastic frame that way I couldn't see it at all and of course the water level (when running) was slightly higher than the line.
 
So right at the bottom of the plastic brace, sounds good. I'm wondering to I one big pump or two smaller pumps for the return would be better? Wouldn't two kinda be a failsafe if one quit?
 
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