120x30 x30

[Kent E]

Sort of, but not really. The brace connects directly to the frame. the silicone touches only the frame and the glass touches nothing but the silicone.

Confused? I am.

So in the diagram, raise the glass above the frame and the brace.

 

[gary greguire]

keep the pics comimg

I have been trying to save up the money to get my plywood I am planning on building an 8' x 36" x ? single pane veiw.

I have been trying to figure out a way to hide my wave boxes and tunze streams behind panels so that they won't be as visible inside the tank.

There are some old pics on GARF of my 70 gal frag tanks that I built a few years ago...

http://www.garf.org/SHOW/index.htm

 

[jcanute]

raise the glass above the brace but not above the frame. then felt pads like cabnet door stops go between the glass and the frame so the silicone can totally seal the glass.

gary i will keep the pics coming. i wll use 1x6 oak for the front frame. is that enough to hide the boxes? the lumber cost $270.00 at lowes.

 

[Willistein]

i think...

Joe you didn't buy oak at lowes did you?

 

[Kent E]

Dan, can you dig up that old picture of the top-off system.

 

[Willistein]

I think it is gone, here's a new one:

The fill box hangs on the inside of the sump and the water inside it is only connected to the sump water via a small exchange hole (see pic). This way if the valve gets stuck on (which does happen) the fill box will overflow into the drain and the fresh water in the fill box will only slowly leach into the sump.

Is this what you've got on your new sump?

 

[Kent E]

Dan,
It would help to see how the sump fits into the whole top off box. So everyone can see how the sump will never overfill. The small exchange hole makes it so the waters will not mix when they are at the same height.


Sorry Joe to clog up your thread.

 

[jcanute]

thats fine. the top off will be part of the new system.

 

[jcanute]

bought 2x2's and ripped them at 45's for all the corners.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f21/acanute/plywood tank/100_2868.jpg

glued and nailed back, bottom, and sides together.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f21/acanute/plywood tank/100_2863.jpg

sorry about all the pics. more to come.........

 

[fat-tony]

hey, those were posed pictures. I don't remember any camera being in there

 

[jcanute]

too busy building to take pics. you know. you were there. thanks to you ,kent, and divineleft for the help.

 

[thriceanangel]

Joe, is it one pane viewable? I am assuming it is.

 

[Willistein]

yeah, I don't see a hose on that nail gun...

 

[Kent E]

If you look closely it's attached to a hose of a different sort.

 

[bosborn1]

That must be one of those new impulse nailguns. My wife won't let me use mine in the house. She doesn't like the smell from the fuel cell gas.

Scott

 

[jcanute]

one pane . i would have liked to have done three so i could see the length of the tank. it would have been like scuba diving. it will take up a whole wall in our eat in kitchen. i will have to remove two windows and beef up the floor. all the build pics are posed. you get too caught up in the work to think about pics

 

[Willistein]

Joe, now would be the time to put the other sides in if you're going to do it. The last thing you want is to wish you had done something different the minute you finish it. Looks good though.

 

[jcanute]

i cant put glass on the ends. the tank is 120". the room is 136". the back of the tank will be tight against the wall. overflows will be be on each end.

 

[jcanute]

build update

build update

the frame is done. ab grade 3/4" plywood. front is 1x6 and 1x4 oak. eurobrace top 1x6 hemlock. all biscut jointed together. 2x2's ripped at 45's in all corners. stain, polyurathane, epoxy, and glass are next in that order.

 

[LFS_worker]

Just out of curiosity what is the esimated total cost of the tank??
how do you scrape the sides?? razor? can you use a magfloat on it?
what is the final thickness of the wood and epoxy?

Looking good!!! CRAZY but good
thanks
Brian