150 Center Brace help
- Thread starter thepircs
- Start date
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
you're running halides I take it?
Got UV protection in place? (Especially with DE lamps!)
The point of separation in your pix is the pressure point on a crossbrace that degrades fastest under stress.
A proper fix will include repairing or replacing the top brace.
You'll need to remove (at least) the deteriorated part and replace it with something else (acrylic) or replace the whole top brace.
If you keep the aquarium half full of water either repair requires using 2 x 4's and clamps to hold the sides of the aquarium together at the correct distance- otherwise you'll need to drain the whole tank.
I've done the repair- I'll see if I can dig the thread up from the archives.
Don't panic...
FWIW my 225 held together (full of water) without the plastic crossbraces intact until I had time to run and purchase clamps.
here's a link to the aforementioned thread. Pix are gone but you might find something useful in it:
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=154411&highlight=crossbrace
is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
you're running halides I take it?
Got UV protection in place? (Especially with DE lamps!)
The point of separation in your pix is the pressure point on a crossbrace that degrades fastest under stress.
A proper fix will include repairing or replacing the top brace.
You'll need to remove (at least) the deteriorated part and replace it with something else (acrylic) or replace the whole top brace.
If you keep the aquarium half full of water either repair requires using 2 x 4's and clamps to hold the sides of the aquarium together at the correct distance- otherwise you'll need to drain the whole tank.
I've done the repair- I'll see if I can dig the thread up from the archives.
Don't panic...
FWIW my 225 held together (full of water) without the plastic crossbraces intact until I had time to run and purchase clamps.
here's a link to the aforementioned thread. Pix are gone but you might find something useful in it:
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=154411&highlight=crossbrace
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thepircs
Member
Re: is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
Re: is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
Thanks for the response. The tank is my 6 ft softy tank. The rocks don't lean on the long sections of the glass. 175 (2) Halides only run for about 3 hours and the canopy is compleyely vented at the top. There is absolutely no heat issue and when Vince and I set it up a few months ago were we shimmed the stand and made sure that all was level. I'm freaking out a bit........Obviously. We measured and the tank is bowing nearly 1/2 inch at the center....
Re: is this a 4ft or 6ft 150?
Thanks for the response. The tank is my 6 ft softy tank. The rocks don't lean on the long sections of the glass. 175 (2) Halides only run for about 3 hours and the canopy is compleyely vented at the top. There is absolutely no heat issue and when Vince and I set it up a few months ago were we shimmed the stand and made sure that all was level. I'm freaking out a bit........Obviously. We measured and the tank is bowing nearly 1/2 inch at the center....
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I understand about the panic.
It's not heat but actually UV that does the damage. It causes plastic to go brittle.
You need to make sure the silicon seals at each corner of the tank remain intact (ie: no air bubbles form).
Is there two snapped off braces or one?
You need to run some 2x4's (or wood strips) along the top most 6ft. length of aquarium and place at least on clamp (preferably two) across the 18" width while clamping the wood strips in place. (The wood prevents creating a pressure point on glass with a clamp.)
Don't overtighten the clamps- you just want them to eliminate the bowing out that you see.
Once you get it clamped up you can take your time deciding what you want to do.
It's not heat but actually UV that does the damage. It causes plastic to go brittle.
You need to make sure the silicon seals at each corner of the tank remain intact (ie: no air bubbles form).
Is there two snapped off braces or one?
You need to run some 2x4's (or wood strips) along the top most 6ft. length of aquarium and place at least on clamp (preferably two) across the 18" width while clamping the wood strips in place. (The wood prevents creating a pressure point on glass with a clamp.)
Don't overtighten the clamps- you just want them to eliminate the bowing out that you see.
Once you get it clamped up you can take your time deciding what you want to do.
your tank should be under a warranty still. I have had lots of tanks with halides and others and have never seen that happen. not saying it can't but i would say its a tank problem. Unless you have a problem with your stand. Call the place where you got the tank and demand a new one.
If you are worried about it breaking get a bar clamp as a temp fix. good luck I would'nt even try to fix it you deserve a new one.
bpatrol
If you are worried about it breaking get a bar clamp as a temp fix. good luck I would'nt even try to fix it you deserve a new one.
bpatrol
thepircs
Member
I agree that I should be taking care of by the LFS that sold it to me. I went in to the un-named store on Rt 26 and all he would do is give me the number of the manufacturer so that I could contact them. He said that he can't do anything for me (lost any chances of further business). I picked up some clamps and 2X4s and have the bowing corrected (A BIG THANKS to Steve (SPN) for the help) until I talk to Perfecto on Monday. That guy should be trying to make it right.....
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
if you need any more help (now or in the future) just post your question(s) to this thread to get my quickest attention.
Cross braces can get weakened or damaged during shipping if someone tries to lift the aquarium by them.
Cross braces can get weakened or damaged during shipping if someone tries to lift the aquarium by them.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I might be wrong but
I might be wrong but
I believe all Perfectos over 100 gallons still come with a 20 year warranty. In conjunction with MO (the LFS where I purchased my aquarium), Perfecto was very helpful replacing my damaged top brace.
It's sounds like your Perfecto dealer is blowing you off. How unfortunate.
I might be wrong but
I believe all Perfectos over 100 gallons still come with a 20 year warranty. In conjunction with MO (the LFS where I purchased my aquarium), Perfecto was very helpful replacing my damaged top brace.
It's sounds like your Perfecto dealer is blowing you off. How unfortunate.
pimpinitup6969
New member
yeah i was in the store that he bought his tank from and they guy running the place was a total TERD!
I had exactly the same failure mode on my 90 gallon Perfecto. I drained part of the water, maybe one third, then placed a 2x4 lengthwise on both the front and back sides, and then used a bar clamp to draw it back in and hold it. It drew in very easy (hand crank the screw on the clamp), but as Gary cautions - be sure not to over compress it. I held a 4 foot level across the front as a tightened the clamp so I could monitor the glass as the bow decreased. I then cut a heavy piece of plastic the same shape as the cross brace and font of the tank. This piece actually looked like a big letter T. I applied a liberal (lot) of gel super glue to the T, placed on the cross brace & front of tank and placed a 10 pound weight on the plasic strip. Next day removed weight, clamp and 2x4's and all is well. Couple notes: First try was with regular super glue and didn't hold. When you clamp the wood leave enough room between the clamp and top to allow placement of the weight on plastic. I refilled the tank immediately after adding the clamp (tank level was dropped probably no more then 15 minutes).
Hope this makes sense and helps. - Mark
Hope this makes sense and helps. - Mark
jaystampareef
New member
Yeah, this can be a problem. It is an easy fix, though. You can order a new rim w/ center brace. I've used heavy duty "gutter" repair tape over the center brace to protect the plastic from UV. Just replace the tape every now and then.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
good point, jay-
all cross braces are easily protected from UV with tape.
Whether damaged from UV, mishandling or a defect this isn't a problem unique to any one aquarium manufacturer.
Additionally, plastic deterioration happens to all aquariums that aren't protected from UV- including acrylic aquariums.
all cross braces are easily protected from UV with tape.
Whether damaged from UV, mishandling or a defect this isn't a problem unique to any one aquarium manufacturer.
Additionally, plastic deterioration happens to all aquariums that aren't protected from UV- including acrylic aquariums.
moriartiholmes
New member
I recently saw a six foot tank with just a center brace and thought how cool it would be to have only one instead of the normal brace every two feet. I'm thinking that maybe having one every three feet isn't enough.
when I first set up my 75 I had a single 400 watt MH bulb over it and replaced the centerbrace with a piece of acrylic to eliminate shadows. Everyone seems to be giving good advice, but I would go with one of two replacements:
1) Acrylic (at least 1/4" thick) replacement brace using Weld On. If you do this, you'll probably want to reinforce the entire top. That way you'll be able to sleep at night. And absolutely use Weld On, it really does weld plastics and I know it works on that plastic. Unless of course that manufacturer uses some other type of plastic.
2) Replace it with a piece of glass using silicone. If you go that way you may need to brace along the sides as well (think Eurobrace).
If you go with either of these be careful to avoid getting any chemicals in the tank. unless of course you unstock it.
Also, you probably should post this in the Do it Yourself forum. There's a lot of good knowledge in there.
when I first set up my 75 I had a single 400 watt MH bulb over it and replaced the centerbrace with a piece of acrylic to eliminate shadows. Everyone seems to be giving good advice, but I would go with one of two replacements:
1) Acrylic (at least 1/4" thick) replacement brace using Weld On. If you do this, you'll probably want to reinforce the entire top. That way you'll be able to sleep at night. And absolutely use Weld On, it really does weld plastics and I know it works on that plastic. Unless of course that manufacturer uses some other type of plastic.
2) Replace it with a piece of glass using silicone. If you go that way you may need to brace along the sides as well (think Eurobrace).
If you go with either of these be careful to avoid getting any chemicals in the tank. unless of course you unstock it.
Also, you probably should post this in the Do it Yourself forum. There's a lot of good knowledge in there.
thepircs
Member
The Customer Service Rep at Perfecto was very helpful today and just needed to see pictures of the tank and stand that I sent her. They need to speak to the store (closed Mon and Tue) and have the replacement top sent there, but they are replacing it at no cost to me... You would think the manufacturers of a reef-ready tank would have taken into account the effects that specialized lightining would have on the bracing and come up with something that will not deteriorate after exposure....
Dave
Dave
