170 Gallon Moonview Library set up

Finally, I have video of the fuge working. A couple of things to point out:

I do not have the turf scrubber installed in this video, so you will see a 1/2" hose running from the TS outlet on the drain. You will also notice that the AE400 is not running. I am waiting on replacement pumps from AE. Also, you may notice that I have a PVC liner in my cabinet. This was an invaluable tip from Doug Lehman. This catches all of the drips and spills from moving things around and disconnecting lines. It is a heavy PVC that goes up 14" in the back and around the sides and about 8" in the front. I have already had one spill that would have made a big mess in my living room, but this liner caugh it all and I was able to clean it up very easily.



Once I have the skimmer and the TS running, I will post another video.
 
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I finally got the rock work done yesterday and finished up installing the Solaris lighting.

Here is a pic of the entire set up:

150629Tank2.jpg


And here is a pic of the rock work:

150629Tank.jpg


I drilled paver stones and slid 1/4 fiberglass rods into them. I then drilled the live rock and slid the live rock onto the rods. I am not done, I would like to go a little higher in the center, but I am very pleased with how it turned out. I can get far more vertical, create far more caves and archways, and do it with far less rock and make it far more stable.

Comments? Suggestions? Feedback?
 
Rock work looks good. I have used acrylic rods in my tanks to "anchor" rocks together and even create one large interesting rock out of 4 smaller non descript ones.

One suggestion have right away is to move your return lines higher up in the water column, closer to the surface. If the power goes out, back siphoning will drain your tank down to the level your return lines are at. This can leave critters high and dry, and also cause a flood if your sump cannot handle the extra water. Just a heads up from painful experiance.

Nick
 
I am looking hard at one of these setups. How to you like the clarity of the glass? They offer starfire... is it necessary?

Ryan.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10293308#post10293308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NewSchool04
or just drill syphon holes on the top of the locline, that will stop the syphon.

As long as the holes remain uncovered/ free of algae/snails/etc...

Safest bet is to relocate the returns to a depth your sump can handle. Holes like you are suggesting do work, but need to be checked regularly to prevent coralline algae growth covering them up, algaes of other types, etc. In addition, snails come and go as they please, and Murphy's Law being what it is...there will be snails sitting on the holes you've drilled right as the power goes out.

Raising the sump returns to a higher level is fool proof and doesnt require regular checking.

Nick
 
My returns do have siphon holes already drilled in them. Honestly, I was wondering what the holes were for. I didn't realize until now. The water comes out of the holes at a pretty high pressure, is it likely that the holes could get covered?

My sump/fuge has ample room to hold any drainage for when the pump is shut off. I may have enough for the drainage if there is a reverse siphon. However, since I put the PVC liner in the stand, I should be able to contain a very large spill/overflow if it ever happens. I get the point about raising the returns, but I am counting on the ability to direct the flow of the returns to strategic areas of the tank and I cannot do this if I raise the level of where they point.
 
Salt creep & algae could plug those anti-siphon easily along with roaming critters. Do you have a closed loop that could be employed to get the flow where you want it instead of using the returns? I'm building a drop-in closed return (tank's not drilled with additional bulkheads) using 1/2" PVC and a pump, and if done right can be almost fully hidden behind the aquascape. Add a cheap-o SCWD and you'll have alternating currents.
 
Have I told all of you how much I love my Solaris lighting?

This thing is amazing. It is pretty much plug and play, but you can fiddle around with it to set it to your own tastes. I have it set on auto with a Northern Hemisphere lunar and solar schedule and this thing does it all on its own. It runs all night on the current lunar phase, which since there is not much moon outside now, the lunar lights are running at 70%. In the morning, it automatically kicks into the sunrise mode and gradually works up to full intensity for the entire day. I have it set for 5 cloud pass overs per day that last 15 minutes each. In the evening, it kicks into sunset mode and gradually dims into the current lunar setting. The days automatically get shorter each day according to the solar position relative to the Northern Hemisphere. I originally had it set for the Southern Hemisphere, as that is where my corals will be from, but since it is winter in the Southern Hemisphere, the days are much shorter and the tank was in night mode by 5:00 PM. Now the tank goes lunar by about 9:15 PM.

The light fixture is running at about 105 degrees and adding no noticeable heat to the water temperature. I have it hanging about 4 inches off the top of the water.

I only have live rock in the tank now, but the lights really bring out the colors of the coraline and other growth on the rocks. I can't wait to get some fish and corals into the tank. I am going to head down to Inland Aquatics some time in the next week and get one or two detrivore starter kits and some seed algae for my turf scrubber. I'll let the detrivores play around, predator free, for about a week or two and then I will move my clowns over to the tank. By this time next month, I will start to move the corals.
 
A busy couple of days!

I had shoulder surgery yesterday, but I didn't let that stop me from getting up this morning and buying a OCEAN REEF MISER SIX STAGE RO/DI 150 GPD from the Filter Guys and then driving down to Terre Haute and buying a detrivore starter kit, some algae starter strips for the Turf Scrubber, and an additional 20 pounds of live sand for my fuge from Inland Aquatics. Probably not the brightest thing I have ever done, driving 6 hours after surgery, but I did want to get the detrivores going in my tank.

The detrivore kit seems like a pretty good deal. I ended up with a large bag of mysis, amphipods, copepods, and other critters, a dozen plus bag of bristle worms, a good starter number of brittle stars, micro stars, gammarus shrimp, and 3 different kinds of small snails. I also added on some chaeto and some other algae. The fuge is definitely well stocked now. Actually, I put all of the bristle worms into the main tank. I figured that the live sand I bought would have enough in there already to get some breeding going.
 
Well, call it a lack of patience and a lack of focus. I have empited my nano and put everything into the new tank. I noticed that I was not staying on top of the nano like I should and when I noticed the LPS corals receding, I felt it was better to tank the plunge and move everything to the new tank. Everything seems to be doing great. A couple of pieces like my plate coral and a couple of candy canes, but they were not doing that great before I switched.

I tested the water in the lab today, here is where it is:

PH - 8.03
NH3 - 0.01
N02 - 0.0037
N03 - 1.3
CA - 461
ALK - 113
P04 - .24

I moved all of the live sand from the nano into this tank as well. Given that I added all of this yesterday, I am actually rather pleased with how good the numbers are. I expected worse.
 
Frustration: Dealing with a slow leak somewhere in your sump for a month, not being able to figure out where it is, spend your Saturday draining and tearing down the sump to ultimately find that you put the gasket for the bulkhead on the wrong side of the acrylic and didn't put thread tape on the pipe fitting. Or is that stupidity?

Anyway, it appears that I have found my leak and dealt with it.
 
somedays the little things can grate and make this hobby annoying.

The bright side of your recent game of "What's causing this leak" is that you now know to check there faster...potentially saving yourself time and effort in the future.

This hobby is a learning experiance. There are very very few people in this hobby who havent dealt with some equally annoying and frustrating.

Glad it was a minor issue that was easily fixed.

Nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10481389#post10481389 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
somedays the little things can grate and make this hobby annoying.

The bright side of your recent game of "What's causing this leak" is that you now know to check there faster...potentially saving yourself time and effort in the future.

This hobby is a learning experiance. There are very very few people in this hobby who havent dealt with some equally annoying and frustrating.

Glad it was a minor issue that was easily fixed.

Nick

Thanks. It was frustrating because I could have easily fixed it without tearing anything down. I can't believe that I could not have found that before I had to tear everything down. I regularly ran my hand over all of the fittings looking for leaks and never felt anything.


On another note, I tested my water yesterday in the lab and my PH and Alk are a little low and my Nitrates and Phosphates are up a little. I did a water change when I tore the sump down, but I also stirred up a lot of sediment. I also blew out a few of the rocks while I was at it. That may have had an impact on the phosphates and nitrates, I am not sure. I am going to be adding a Phosban reactor next weekend and a calcium reactor in the next few weeks to deal with the PH, Alk and PO4. As far as Nitrates, I may just need to let the plenum and sand bed build up more nitrifiying bacteria. I am going to do another 10% water change this week

PH 8.05
NH3 0.00
NO2 0.0052
NO3 1.8
Sal 31.3
Alk 88
CA 446
PO4 0.28
 
JGLackin, My wife and I are going to go with the Solaris lighting on an Oceanic 120 Tech series starphire set up. In your humble opinion how do you like your lighting? We are also looking at the 400 series. We were stuck between the Solaris and the Geisemens. Best opinions are from those who actually own the product.Thanks for your input and hopefully you are enjoying the lights :)
 
I have the 400 series. Honestly, the jury is still out on this lighting for me until I get some more SPS corals in my tank. I will be adding SPS soon. The SPS corals I have now have open polyps and seem to be doing well.

I am a gadget geek, so my opinion may be a bit skewed. From a functionality standpoint, I love it. Turn it on when you install it, program it and then forget it. Program in the date, time, which hemisphere you want, and then it does everything else on its own. Sunrise, full sun, 5-15 minute cloud pass overs, sunset, and the 28 lunar phases. The unit generates about 110 degrees, but I see virtually no heat transfer and I have a fraction of the evaporation that many others experience.

My worries/concerns are more associated with my tank. My tank is very deep and very wide and the length puts me in an odd position. The tank is 60", but, with the canopy, I cannot fit a 60" fixture in it, so I had to go with a 48" unit. In retrospect, and this is something that I discussed with Solaris before I got my unit, I should have gone with either 2 or 3 24" units. The 48" unit on my tank leaves some areas on the sides with less than optimal levels of light. It should be ok for me, as I like mixed reef tanks and will put corals that require less/subdued light on the ends. Also, with my tank being 24" wide and having a 3" glass lip that overhangs the inside of the tank, similar to an acrylic tank, my light penetration in the front of the tank to the sand bed may be affected. I can't tell for sure, I may be just worrying, but I will know when I put a clam in the sand bed.

When I bought mine, I went to several of the threads here at RC and PM'd all of the people that said that they had one. At this time, it was only made in a 250 watt version. *EVERY* person that had one said that they loved it and would do it again. That was good enough for me. When I got wind of the 400 watt, I knew I was sold.

The LED lighting seems to really fire some people up. They accuse anyone that has one as being "too embarrassed to admit they got screwed" and/or ignorant to proper reef lighting. The most vocal dissenters mostly seem to have never even seen one, let alone used one.

I can tell you that the Shedd is getting one and possibly more. They are getting the one to start with because of the light cycle. They are trying to breed a certain light sensitive species of fish and the Solaris light cycle is about as natural as you can get with artificial lighting and they believe that this will help encourage the fish to spawn. I have heard from Solaris owners that they have seen increased spawning in both corals and fish.

The best I can tell you is, if you are going for a hard core SPS dominated tank that is more than 20" deep, you might be safer to go with MH. If you are going for a mixed reef tank with SPS higher on the live rock and LPS, zoas, and soft corals lower down the water column (more natural IMHO), go with the Solaris. I guarantee I have less evaporation, lower electric bills, no bulb change expenses and headaches, and far less (zero) issues with timers and schedules.

You are welcome to come see it (and anyone else that wants to, for that matter).

I hope this helps.
 
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I have added a couple of Tunze 6055 pumps to my system and a LifeReef Calcium Reactor. I have also bought an automatic feeder that links into my Aquacontroller so that I can provide a series of small feedings throughout the day rather than the two that I am doing now. I am going to be adding some Anthias, once I finish setting up my QT and get them through QT, and they require more frequent feeding.

I tested the water today at the lab and I have the PH, Alk and calc about where I want them, but my Nitrates and Phosphates are still up. I would imagine that my nitrates are up due to the increased bioload from the new fish as well as I am feeding them more, so it will take time for the system to adjust.

PH 8.20
NH3 -0.01
NO2 0.0031
NO3 2.7
Sal 32.2
Alk 103.2
CA 432
PO4 0.33
 
I am not going to feed a lot, I am just going to feed often. The feeding I am doing now is that I am using DT's and Reef Chili for the corals. I am feeding every other day, which might be too often for the amount of corals I have as well as DT's and Reef Chili together might be too much. As long as I can maintain water quality, I do not see an issue. If I cannot get the nitrates down, I will lighten up on the food volume.
 
I thought it was for the fish. I feed my fish every other day & the corals every 3-4 days. I feed quite well though, when I do.
 
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