Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
if you purchased the PFO cable kit you will be able to raise the hood by adjusting the cables. I would keep the bottom of a fan cooled light hood at least 6" above the water.
180 gallon tank build
- Thread starter magdelan
- Start date
magdelan
Fish?
I got my light hung this morning!!! Gary, I didn't realize that PFO sold a kit like the one you mentioned. I wish I knew before I bought everything. Although, I don't think I can take any more waiting for UPS or Fedex to show up...it's ToO StReSsFuLL :spin2:
Later on, I went to Lowes to get as much plumbing as i could think of. I knew that I would need more, but I just wanted to get all the basics. I ended up finding True Union Ball Valves there. They were almost half the price as the ones that I saw online.
Here is what I have done so far. It's just fit together; no glue yet. How are we lookin????
This is from the sump. It comes out of the sump at 2" and then goes down to 1.5 after the union ball valve. Then starts it's ascent.
Here is where it Tees off and goes through another union ball valve to feed the 30g refugium.
And last, you can see the whole setup and where the 30g drains again through a union ball valve and back into the sump into the return side. The one thing that SkiFletch mentioned is that I should have a backup drain on the 30g. I suppose I could drill it again, but I'd be too afraid of the tank cracking since the holes would be so close. If I were to do it, I would drill just below where the drain is now and use the top drain as the backup. Then the only problem would be that the inlet hole would be about 2" higher than the drain hole. Any thoughts???
Tomorrow I need to buy some more PVC parts and drill through the bottom of my stand, through the floor and through a drywall ceiling that is in our basement. That is NOT going to be fun.
Later on, I went to Lowes to get as much plumbing as i could think of. I knew that I would need more, but I just wanted to get all the basics. I ended up finding True Union Ball Valves there. They were almost half the price as the ones that I saw online.
Here is what I have done so far. It's just fit together; no glue yet. How are we lookin????
This is from the sump. It comes out of the sump at 2" and then goes down to 1.5 after the union ball valve. Then starts it's ascent.
Here is where it Tees off and goes through another union ball valve to feed the 30g refugium.
And last, you can see the whole setup and where the 30g drains again through a union ball valve and back into the sump into the return side. The one thing that SkiFletch mentioned is that I should have a backup drain on the 30g. I suppose I could drill it again, but I'd be too afraid of the tank cracking since the holes would be so close. If I were to do it, I would drill just below where the drain is now and use the top drain as the backup. Then the only problem would be that the inlet hole would be about 2" higher than the drain hole. Any thoughts???
Tomorrow I need to buy some more PVC parts and drill through the bottom of my stand, through the floor and through a drywall ceiling that is in our basement. That is NOT going to be fun.
SkiFletch
New member
Your Lowes has true union ball vavles? Jealous...
Some thoughts. Your fuge is currently draining into the return pump section of your sump which we'd discussed before is a microbubble factory waiting to happen
Might want to shorten that last horizontal run to bring it to the right side of the sump.
As for drilling the other hole, you'd be surprised how close you can get them. I'd actually drill it a little higher as opposed to lower and use the current one as your main. Good work on supporing the drain line though
Some thoughts. Your fuge is currently draining into the return pump section of your sump which we'd discussed before is a microbubble factory waiting to happen
Might want to shorten that last horizontal run to bring it to the right side of the sump.As for drilling the other hole, you'd be surprised how close you can get them. I'd actually drill it a little higher as opposed to lower and use the current one as your main. Good work on supporing the drain line though
@skifletch - Our Lowes have them too - the one in Amherst has them and the one in Orchard Park does as well. They are in the section by the copper fittings - opposite side of where the PVC is - down past the PVC pipe.
@magdelan - you could also drill lower and the put an elbow and riser tube up to the desired water level - I used to have my sump that way and it wasn't real load.
Jer
@magdelan - you could also drill lower and the put an elbow and riser tube up to the desired water level - I used to have my sump that way and it wasn't real load.
Jer
magdelan
Fish?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12439429#post12439429 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
Your Lowes has true union ball vavles? Jealous...
Some thoughts. Your fuge is currently draining into the return pump section of your sump which we'd discussed before is a microbubble factory waiting to happen
As for drilling the other hole, you'd be surprised how close you can get them. I'd actually drill it a little higher as opposed to lower and use the current one as your main. Good work on supporing the drain line though
I will drill a backup hole this afternoon then. Also, by directing the fuge drain into the skimmer section of the sump, won't this kill some of the pods? That is the only reason I have the drain on the left/return side of the sump...to save the pods.
SkiFletch
New member
Bingo. Make sure you strain relieve that backup drain like you did the main and you'll be all set .
You're planning on using Tee's at the point where the drains angle down ultimately right? Gotta have that if you want it to drain properly. A lot of people here on RC refer to this style of drain as a "Calfo" overflow. So instead of that highest elbow, you have a Tee with the middle of the Tee coming off the tank, one side pointing down towards the sump, and the second pointing straight up with a cap on the top and a say 1/4" hole drilled in the cap. This allows the drain to breath air quietly
Edit: if you don't understand, I can take a pic of mine when I go home tonight
.You're planning on using Tee's at the point where the drains angle down ultimately right? Gotta have that if you want it to drain properly. A lot of people here on RC refer to this style of drain as a "Calfo" overflow. So instead of that highest elbow, you have a Tee with the middle of the Tee coming off the tank, one side pointing down towards the sump, and the second pointing straight up with a cap on the top and a say 1/4" hole drilled in the cap. This allows the drain to breath air quietly
Edit: if you don't understand, I can take a pic of mine when I go home tonight
magdelan
Fish?
I am just going to use a vinal tube for the backup drain and I already have the Tee in place for the Calfo overflow.
Tonight I began drilling holes through the bottom of my stand for the one return hole and the two drain holes. After drilling through the floor on my first drain hole< I realized that I have hit one of those diagonal slats that go between the headders (sp). Can I continue drilling through it without consequence or should I redirrect the hole? Here is a picture of the slats that I am talking about.
Here are two of my Ragdolls that were getting a bit frisky with one another.
How far does the rabbit hole go??
In this picture, you can see the Calfo style overflow that I have incorporated into the 30g fuge drain.
Tonight I began drilling holes through the bottom of my stand for the one return hole and the two drain holes. After drilling through the floor on my first drain hole< I realized that I have hit one of those diagonal slats that go between the headders (sp). Can I continue drilling through it without consequence or should I redirrect the hole? Here is a picture of the slats that I am talking about.
Here are two of my Ragdolls that were getting a bit frisky with one another.
How far does the rabbit hole go??
In this picture, you can see the Calfo style overflow that I have incorporated into the 30g fuge drain.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
you can remove x bracing between joists and nail some new cross braces in an open area nearby. In our last house I went nuts installing cross braces with cut up 2x4's and 2x6's but overkill isn't a bad thing in this case IMO.
magdelan
Fish?
I like the idea Gary, however there wasn't anyway to install new braces. The room that I was drilling into has a drywall ceiling so the best that I could do was to take the one part of the X brace out of the equation.
I eventually made it through and now have two drain holes and one return hole. I am happy to say that the return is completely hooked up (minus the pvc glue)!!! I fit together one drain tonight and will do the other one tomorrow.
I have to make another trip to Home Depot to return two bushings and two nipples. I got nipples to connect the 1" drain with flex tube to the drain pipe. Well, I ended up getting the wrong size nipples. Nipple, nipple, nipple.... I know, laugh it up!!!! I should have the second drain hooked up tomorrow night. Then I need to glue everything together and fire it up with tap water for a leak test!!!!
I eventually made it through and now have two drain holes and one return hole. I am happy to say that the return is completely hooked up (minus the pvc glue)!!! I fit together one drain tonight and will do the other one tomorrow.
I have to make another trip to Home Depot to return two bushings and two nipples. I got nipples to connect the 1" drain with flex tube to the drain pipe. Well, I ended up getting the wrong size nipples. Nipple, nipple, nipple.... I know, laugh it up!!!! I should have the second drain hooked up tomorrow night. Then I need to glue everything together and fire it up with tap water for a leak test!!!!
magdelan
Fish?
I finished "piecing" together the plumbing tonight. However, I still have one small thing to do; I need to buy a nipple connector to connect vinal tubing to the backup drain on the fuge. Then I need to glue everything together...I'm definately NOT looking forward to doing this!! After I put the pvc primer on, how long should I wait before applying the glue and connecting the pipes? If I can get everything glued by Monday night, I can do my fresh water test Thursday night. Here's to hoping!!!
This is in the room in the basement dirrecty under the tank. The left drain is on the left, the return is in the middle and the right drain is...you guessed it...on the right.
This is the whole setup on the opposite side of that wall. As you can see, the drains are running diagonally behind the tank.
I don't know if anyone is looking for LOCTITE superglue GEL, but the Macedon Lowes has it.... Yay for me!!!
This is in the room in the basement dirrecty under the tank. The left drain is on the left, the return is in the middle and the right drain is...you guessed it...on the right.
This is the whole setup on the opposite side of that wall. As you can see, the drains are running diagonally behind the tank.
I don't know if anyone is looking for LOCTITE superglue GEL, but the Macedon Lowes has it.... Yay for me!!!
dan10342
New member
make sure you keep the case for that loctite superglue. when the glue runs out, just open the case, and remove the glue tube with a cheap one from somewhere. it will save u like 2.50 a pop. plastic costs a lot, and thats y those things cost so much money.
I have been waiting so long to see this tank up and running. it better be up by the time i go off to college
or else...
I have been waiting so long to see this tank up and running. it better be up by the time i go off to college
or else...
SkiFletch
New member
Mike, here's good priming/gluing instructions:
- Dry fit all the plumbing (like you've already done) and de-burr the fitting ends.
- Mark every fitting and pipe with a black magic marker so you know how to re-align them when you glue
- Prime both inside the fitting and outside the pipe, allow it to air dry for a few seconds
- Glue both inside the fitting and outside the pipe (feel free to be somewht generous) and watch for dripping.
- While the glue is still wet, insert the pipe into the fitting rotated 45 degrees (use the black line to help out)
- Then immediately rotate the pipe the 45 degrees so that the magic marker lines line up.
- Allow a minute or two to mechanically set and proceed to the next fitting.
- Once completing all those joints, fail numerous field sobriety tests from huffing all that glue
- Dry fit all the plumbing (like you've already done) and de-burr the fitting ends.
- Mark every fitting and pipe with a black magic marker so you know how to re-align them when you glue
- Prime both inside the fitting and outside the pipe, allow it to air dry for a few seconds
- Glue both inside the fitting and outside the pipe (feel free to be somewht generous) and watch for dripping.
- While the glue is still wet, insert the pipe into the fitting rotated 45 degrees (use the black line to help out)
- Then immediately rotate the pipe the 45 degrees so that the magic marker lines line up.
- Allow a minute or two to mechanically set and proceed to the next fitting.
- Once completing all those joints, fail numerous field sobriety tests from huffing all that glue
magdelan
Fish?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12468720#post12468720 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
Mike, here's good priming/gluing instructions:
- Dry fit all the plumbing (like you've already done) and de-burr the fitting ends.
- Mark every fitting and pipe with a black magic marker so you know how to re-align them when you glue
- Prime both inside the fitting and outside the pipe, allow it to air dry for a few seconds
- Glue both inside the fitting and outside the pipe (feel free to be somewht generous) and watch for dripping.
- While the glue is still wet, insert the pipe into the fitting rotated 45 degrees (use the black line to help out)
- Then immediately rotate the pipe the 45 degrees so that the magic marker lines line up.
- Allow a minute or two to mechanically set and proceed to the next fitting.
- Once completing all those joints, fail numerous field sobriety tests from huffing all that glue
That's excellent advice!! Thanks Mike!!
How important is it to have the end of the pipes de-burred? Some of the pieces that I cut were a bit jagged. Will this be a big deal?
My wife has agreed to help me with all the glueing tonight so I should be able to do the first test Wednesday afternoon. Wah-hoo!!!!
SkiFletch
New member
If you use your fingernail to remove any particles AND make sure you use the turn method it should be just fine. Its the little pieces that really screw things up. You can also use a kitchen knife real quick on any that are really bad
Edit: btw, curing of the glue really doesn't take long at all. If you want to be REALLY safe, 24 hours is more than enough. I've used one in 30 mins though right on the output side of a mag 24 when I had to replace someone's check valve in a pinch. So don't go nuts about being too careful waiting for it to set
Edit: btw, curing of the glue really doesn't take long at all. If you want to be REALLY safe, 24 hours is more than enough. I've used one in 30 mins though right on the output side of a mag 24 when I had to replace someone's check valve in a pinch. So don't go nuts about being too careful waiting for it to set
magdelan
Fish?
Finished Plumbing!!!
Finished Plumbing!!!
I got home from work tonight at 9:30pm. I began glueing all of my plumbling together around 10pm and I was pretty high on fumes by 10:05pm. Here is the fuge/back to sump line being assembled...
After everything was pieced together, I began connecting everything starting with the two drain lines... and then working my way forward to the return and finally to the pump return.
In this picture, you can see my drains. I ordered a dual drain filter bag setup from Drs. Fosters and Smith. The setup came with two 1 inch holes for the drains, but I drilled them out to take my two 2 inch pipes.
This is of the return and drain pipes connected to the tank via vinal tubing. I submerged the ends of the tubes one at a time into boiling water to losen the vinal. Then I attached it to the nipples. Once they cool down... como se dice... Death Grip... en espanol???
And last....
Finished Plumbing!!!
I got home from work tonight at 9:30pm. I began glueing all of my plumbling together around 10pm and I was pretty high on fumes by 10:05pm. Here is the fuge/back to sump line being assembled...
After everything was pieced together, I began connecting everything starting with the two drain lines... and then working my way forward to the return and finally to the pump return.
In this picture, you can see my drains. I ordered a dual drain filter bag setup from Drs. Fosters and Smith. The setup came with two 1 inch holes for the drains, but I drilled them out to take my two 2 inch pipes.
This is of the return and drain pipes connected to the tank via vinal tubing. I submerged the ends of the tubes one at a time into boiling water to losen the vinal. Then I attached it to the nipples. Once they cool down... como se dice... Death Grip... en espanol???
And last....
magdelan
Fish?
My wife is going to fill up the display today with a garden hose and then we'll hit up the overflows when I get home later tonight. I think my biggest concern is the two bushings that thread into the pump. I don't have any teflon tape on them, but they are in there super tight. Do you think this will be a problem?
