2000g System overview

[nyvp]

Some updates


The Finished edges to the granite to cover up bottom glass and foam.... I like the way it came out

The start to the electric 2- 12/3 pulled for 4-20 amp circuits.

1 circuit for the dc-4 HD that runs 2 -250 MH and 2-250 watt heaters

1 circuit for the dc-4 HD that runs the other 2 MH and heaters. I did this to split the heaters and MH's incase one circuit pops.

1 circuit for the dc-8

1 circuit for the other items

I cut a new hole in the wall to make a different entrance into my fish closet. I moved the opening so my electric could be closer to my tank for ease of operation.

 

[jnarowe]

Nice work! That stand is freakin' awesome. It's sort of a shame to cover up all that granite, but at least it's a tank! The granite trim is really sweet.

 

[DC321]

Now this is what I call dedication.

 

[nyvp]

only thing I would have changed was I added that new trim but didnt have it in the original plans. Now the edge is small for me to walk on. I had wanted to be able to walk the outer edge without a ladder. In hind sight I would have made the bottom 1 1/2 inch larger so my foot would fit better.

 

[jnarowe]

As it is, that may be an accicdent waiting to happen with that bullnose finish. It may be better for your sake that you will need a ladder.

 

[dgasmd]

That is just sick looking. Simply awesome!!!!!!!

 

[jay24k]

I wonder if you could of used a a steel top and then wrapped the edge of it in granite and saved yourself a full sheet? That looks very nice the way it is done though.

 

[H20ENG]

Joeseph,
YGM re the controller

Granite looks awesome!!!
Chris

 

[nyvp]

jay24k thats what I thought also.

2 things why I didnt.

Having the full pcs of granite gives the tank a nice straight base

Also it only cost me $200 differnce in price to doing it this way. All the cost is the labor to make the edges. The granite itself isnt alot in the price. $8 a sq ft for raw granite to $30 for the edges. As with everything else with this hobby I said ......its only a couple $ more.... till you start adding all of the couple up and then go ..... DANG !!!! :eek1::eek1:

 

[jnarowe]

I was going to have a granite counter made for one of our guest baths in a banjo shape and the cost to cut the sink hole was $250, the edges and the banjo cutout were another $300 and I would be left with about 25% of the slab I had to buy. I ended up doing it myself!

 

[jay24k]

Well that makes a good point definetly. If it is only 8 per sq ft, is all the cost in finishing the slab? I built a bar out of Indian Black Granite. It was a small mini bar and it ran me 350 dollars.

 

[jnarowe]

In that mini bar, the hole cutting cost much more than the stone.

 

[alien9168]

Looking good so far! Keep up the good work!

I like the way your electrical is coming together as well

 

[chopsuey]

Sweeeet!! Love the granite!!

 

[blfuller123]

I agree, the granite looks really nice!!!

 

[nyvp]

What Am I missing?
I have 4 20 amp Circuits W/GFI's

Circuit 1 has a DC4HD attached with 4/ Outlets on other side with only a phosban Reactor so far

Circuit 2 has a DC4HD attached with 4/ Outlets on other sidewith only my seq return pump

Circuit 3 has a DC8 attached with 4/ Outlets

Circuit 4 has 4 outlets with my om4way Closed loop and Dart attached also is a Auto Backup battery for my ACIII and Tunze's incase of power failure.

So what am I missing and what do you think?

DC4HD
250wHeater________________20 AmpGFI_______1-Phosban
250wHeater
250wMH
250wMH


DC4HD
250wHeater_____________20 Amp GFI ______1-SEQ Return
T5's 8 54's (432 watts)
250wMH
250wMH

DC8
Kalc Reactor________________20 AmpGFI
MoonLight
Calc Reactor
250wHeater
Stand Fan
Exaust Fan
Refuge Light
Co2

20 AmpGFI______1-OM4way Dart
_

_
Battery Backup Supply
ACIII
Tunze Controller
Tunze6100 Tunze6100

controllers will be mounted to left of the single gfi boxes

 

[jnarowe]

Looks OK. You may have trouble with that second circuit depending on how much the Sequence draws. On the first circuit I think you should try to stagger the heaters as well as the lamps so that they aren't trying to fire at the same time.

Any particular reason why you have your pumps independant of the ACIII? I have all my pumps hooked into my controller so that I can turn them off without have to unplug them.

I am really interested to se how this works for you. GFI circuits scare me when life-support is involved. I didn't put any in my tank room at all.

I am also interested in your decision making process to use a back up battery for the controller. I have thought about this quite a bit but really can't figure out what the benefit would be.

 

[nyvp]

[ by jnarowe
Looks OK. You may have trouble with that second circuit depending on how much the Sequence draws. On the first circuit I think you should try to stagger the heaters as well as the lamps so that they aren't trying to fire at the same time.

>>>you not reading the diagram right. On the 20 amp circuit #1 there is a dc4hd with 500w heat and 500w light so adding the pump is fine



Any particular reason why you have your pumps independent of the ACIII? I have all my pumps hooked into my controller so that I can turn them off without have to unplug them.

>>> They will have independent switches on my wall bank

I am really interested to se how this works for you. GFI circuits scare me when life-support is involved. I didn't put any in my tank room at all.

>>> the GFI's are 20 amps and way under run so we will see

I am also interested in your decision making process to use a back up battery for the controller. I have thought about this quite a bit but really can't figure out what the benefit would be.

>>> if the lights go out my ACIII can still talk to my web and me as well as the tunze's will still be adding flow to the tank until I can come home.

 

[jnarowe]

I was more concerned about the second ciruit down that has 250W heat, 432W T5, 500W MH and the sequence pump. Depending on which pump it is, it could range from 300W to 400W+. All of that is below the 20 amp GFI (theoretically) but the start up draw can go much higher.

I have 1000W MH on 3 different DC4HDs and only add very light wattage items like LED moonlights and light movers. In fact I had planned to have Vortech pumps on them but that didn't work out, probably due to the high draw of the MH lamps when they start up.

My concern about it is that my experience with GFIs has not been good and I have found them to be a bit tempermental.

You bring up a good point about the UPS for the controller, but, unless you rig a sensor to your main panel to signal the controller that there is a power outage, you will never get an email warning that the power is out. All things will look "normal", at least until a parameter falls below your preset minimum. So if you set an alarm for temp. below 76F, then you would get that email warning, but you wouldn't know that the cause is a power failure. Does that make sense?

At least with the UPS you can still watch the tank conditions and respond when neccessary rather than panic and run home for no reason. Strange how I had convinced myself that the UPS isn't needed and now a short discussion with you has me reconsidering!

 

[nyvp]

Hmm maybe . I may add another dc4HD then will see.. thanks for the idea's. for right now I will switch that pump with the phosban pump