2001 Oceanic Tank (125 Gallon) - Tempered Bottom?

Apocrathia

Apocrathia

New member
I'm getting ready to start setting up my oceanic tank for a drilled reef setup. I have an up drilled tank that I need to drill. I'm pretty certain that the bottom is not tempered, but I'm not 100% sure. I've done the LCD test, polarized sunglasses, and it looks just a regular sheet of glass. I just don't want to be wrong, start drilling, and shatter this tank that I'm really happy to have gotten.
 
I never can keep track, but I don't think Oceanic is in business anymore. Didn't the tank builders start another business, DSA? Anyhow, if you've done the typical tests then probably you're good (bottom thicker glass than the sides is also a reasonable hint that it is not tempered); though I suppose you won't know for absolute certain until you give it a try.
 
So, yes, Oceanic is out of business. I did get in touch with the current company that owns the brand name, and they have specifically stated that anything made during that time frame, they have no clue *** happened or how it was made.

I've already been planning on doing a bean animal overflow. I've got 4 3/4" and 4 1/2" bulkheads and all of the locline and filters for 2 full bean animal setups. The plan was to bottom drill and then do 2 full height overflow boxes, bottom drilled, 4 pipes in each. I can absolutely still do the same thing now just with a side drilled box, but my reservation is that the tank will be sitting directly against a wall and I won't have access to the plumbing in the back ever again. (the tank is actually going to get built into some cabinetry. Not having it sit directly against the wall does make me a little uneasy.)

As far as I can tell, the glass is not tempered, but I am so worried that I'm going to start drilling and it's going to just shatter the entire tank.
 
I just looked, most of the old tank builders from Oceanic did indeed form Deep Sea Aquatics. Probably a long shot, but perhaps if you give them a call they might be able to offer some insight. Tank builders usually remember that kind of stuff, whereas corporate shills will have no idea (nothing against corporate shills, I am one :), they just aren't going to know). Otherwise you're either going to have to live with a non-drilled tank, or take a deep breath and give it a shot. Just use safety glasses :lol:

FWIW, 3/4 and especially 1/2 bulkheads are far too small for an effective bean system. I'd not do duals. I'd use 1" piping at a minimum, and use a single, longer overflow. Last time I ran a bean-type overflow on a 180, I used 1" bulkheads for the siphon and open channel/backup siphon and 1 1/2" for the emergency. 24" long overflow along the back middle of the tank.
 
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View attachment 291718 ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411314202.106023.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1411314209.207312.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1411314216.739954.jpg

So I did the little lcd trick with my tablet and took some pictures with my phone from several different angles. Polarized glasses look normal too.

Giving DSA a call is probably a safe bet. I'll give that a try.

Also, as far as the bulkheads,miss just a 125, so the combination of 4 3/4" drain pipes should be plenty from what I've been told.
 
Apocrathia said:
Also, as far as the bulkheads,miss just a 125, so the combination of 4 3/4" drain pipes should be plenty from what I've been told.
Click to expand...

You should never use 3/4" pipes for drains. They are just too small to get any real flow without being noisy. If you are going to drill yourself, you are better off with a BeanAnimal setup using 3 1" drains which is what I have on my 125g. That setup at 1" is plenty for your size tank. I placed my returns over the back of the tank rather than drilling but that is more a personal choice.
 
Great, so the problem now is that I already bought all of the bulkheads and locline from BRS. I wonder if they'd let me return it for all 1" stuff. :/
 
Return just the bulkheads. While you're at it, get the correct size diamond hole saw from them. The locline is fine for returns, I use two sections on mine.
 
ca1ore said:
Then I would suggest that whomever told you that didn't know what they were talking about.
Click to expand...

I would suggest that also...

RocketEngineer said:
The locline is fine for returns, I use two sections on mine.
Click to expand...

Hummmmmmm, well IMO loc-line is a hobby toy, rather than something that should be part of a serious reef setup; they accomplish nothing useful (that powerheads don't,) other than restrict the flow more than it already is..eductors, penductors, seaswirals, and such are also just toys that cost you more money...that kill the flow.
 
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Okay. I'm going to return my BRS order and order new pieces. For the 125 overflow, if I have to drill the back, would you guys suggest 2 small overflow boxes, or one c2c box? Should I do a single set of drain pipes or 2? If I return the 1/2" and 3/4" stuff for all 1" what should I go with? 1" drain pipes and a 3/4" return? 2 returns?
 
Scratch that. I just actually looked at the order from BRS (which I haven't even taken out of the box). It was all 1" drain pipes and 3/4" fills.

I also just got an email back from DSA stating that the bottom is in fact tempered and to drill through the back. I think I'm just going to do a c2c, but I'm sort of wondering how to get it into the tank since the older Oceanics have that huge glass center brace...
 
So, internal c2c box with an external box? I'm trying to understand what's going on here. Also, why glass? Do you feel it was any easier?
 
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