220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
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bheron
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Ok. Here's some more detail: per the Durso plans on his website, he says use 1.25 inch PVC for the standpipe, and then use a 1" reducer bushing at the bottom. So, thats why I was thinking since it had to go through the 1" bushing, that's the minimum diameter it had to travel through.
Right now I'm planning on using 1" PVC -- can't seem to find the SpaFlex at my Home Depot!! I see other types of flexible plastic tubing, clear and black, but I dont think its SpaFlex.
Right now I'm planning on using 1" PVC -- can't seem to find the SpaFlex at my Home Depot!! I see other types of flexible plastic tubing, clear and black, but I dont think its SpaFlex.
bheron
Active member
Update!
Update!
Minor Update
1) Cleaned out my 75g and moved it in place as my new sump!! Whew, it barely fit in there width wise. Had to make a few adjustments to the stand but it worked out. Should be nice to have a 75g sump!!
2) I dont have any pics yet, but I've began my drain plumbing into the sump. Based on the above, I'm going with 1" PVC. I think with the smaller amount of flow I'll have, the and 1" bushings, 1" PVC should work fine. I'll have the return plumbing done this weekend and will have pics.
3) Finished hooking up RODI. I went out an spent $1.04 on a new compression nut for my RODI and that solved the problems above. I'm now producing nice, clean water easily! Was able to do a 20% WC in my temporary 20g holding tank.
4) And....I've offically begun my Rock Cooking process. You've gotta see what these things look like so I took some pics.
These rocks were first put into my 75g back in January of 2004. Now, what really killed me is that I just threw them in b/c I wanted to cure them in the new tank. So much GUNK came off of these things that, throughout the time I had them, the were always stuffed with detritus. Then, over time, the algae grew. Also, keep in mind the color appears darker when out of water compared to being in water and under lights. But this is how they looked last night:
I'm gonna take before/after pics for when the cooking is done. Also, these rocks have been sitting in a completely dark tank of SW for a week, so I'm hoping the cooking process has begun.
Up next:
- Do return plumbing this weekend. This will incorporate my Fuge and 15 gallon holding tank, so I think I'll need the whole weekend to do this. The goal is to fill it up with fresh water and test out the whole system. Maybe I can have that complete this weekend.
That's all for now!
Update!
Minor Update
1) Cleaned out my 75g and moved it in place as my new sump!! Whew, it barely fit in there width wise. Had to make a few adjustments to the stand but it worked out. Should be nice to have a 75g sump!!
2) I dont have any pics yet, but I've began my drain plumbing into the sump. Based on the above, I'm going with 1" PVC. I think with the smaller amount of flow I'll have, the and 1" bushings, 1" PVC should work fine. I'll have the return plumbing done this weekend and will have pics.
3) Finished hooking up RODI. I went out an spent $1.04 on a new compression nut for my RODI and that solved the problems above. I'm now producing nice, clean water easily! Was able to do a 20% WC in my temporary 20g holding tank.
4) And....I've offically begun my Rock Cooking process. You've gotta see what these things look like so I took some pics.
These rocks were first put into my 75g back in January of 2004. Now, what really killed me is that I just threw them in b/c I wanted to cure them in the new tank. So much GUNK came off of these things that, throughout the time I had them, the were always stuffed with detritus. Then, over time, the algae grew. Also, keep in mind the color appears darker when out of water compared to being in water and under lights. But this is how they looked last night:
I'm gonna take before/after pics for when the cooking is done. Also, these rocks have been sitting in a completely dark tank of SW for a week, so I'm hoping the cooking process has begun.
Up next:
- Do return plumbing this weekend. This will incorporate my Fuge and 15 gallon holding tank, so I think I'll need the whole weekend to do this. The goal is to fill it up with fresh water and test out the whole system. Maybe I can have that complete this weekend.
That's all for now!
bheron
Active member
In addition to the update above, quick question for you all:
-My return pump (Mag18) has a 3/4" outlet. Can I just use 3/4" PVC the whole way or would 1" be better? On one hand, I dont want to restict flow with extra friction, etc. On the other hand, I dont want too much sloshing or turbulence.
Thoughts?
-My return pump (Mag18) has a 3/4" outlet. Can I just use 3/4" PVC the whole way or would 1" be better? On one hand, I dont want to restict flow with extra friction, etc. On the other hand, I dont want too much sloshing or turbulence.
Thoughts?
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
Hey Bryan,
I think you'd be best to step up to 1" plumbing. Stepping up one will reduce flow losses due to friction in the pipes. Your pump will completely fill your return lines and there will be no sloshing or turbulence. In fact they should be less turbulence because with the 1" lines the water will move through the pipes slower and smoother.
I run my Dart with 2" plumbing all the way and my return pump has 2" returns up until it splits into the manifolds on both side of the tank; you can hardly hear the water flowing in any of the lines.
Tyler
bheron
Active member
Mark - yes, I have a plan on how I'm gonna address it. let me dig it up and lay it out for you in more detail.
Tyler and Marc - thanks! I didnt know all of that so you've helped me make my decision. I went out and got the 1" PVC and will use that all around for all plumbing.
Hopefully I'll finish it this weekend and actually put water in it! Thanks so much.
(mark, I'll post something shortly)
bryan
Tyler and Marc - thanks! I didnt know all of that so you've helped me make my decision. I went out and got the 1" PVC and will use that all around for all plumbing.
Hopefully I'll finish it this weekend and actually put water in it! Thanks so much.
(mark, I'll post something shortly)
bryan
bheron
Active member
Mark - your question: "Any update on what you decided to do about the tank to close it off?"
To everyone else, here's what my tank looks like right now, there is an 8" opening above the tank in the front and side:
I want to close it all off with something that will also give me access to the front and side when needed (cleaning, etc).
I've seen alot of plans with so many different ideas, some with some really cool hyrdolic springs and such. Well, I need to keep it simple, lo-tech, and lo-cost for now. So, I'm think of employing something I saw Melev do with a canopy of his. And I want to do it with very lightweight wood. Here's the requirements:
- Simple and lo-tech: I'm not going to use any hinges or any other hardware right now
- Removable: I will have to use light wood, if possible, so that I can take it off at any time
- Seamless: I want to make it look like, when its on, that there is no seam or break.
So, I saw someting Meleve did where he had a "grooved" piece of wood that interlocked, so to speak.
Here's a crude drawing I did on the idea of the hinge:
The piece will lift up and out of the front of the tank. Will have to do one piece for the front and one for the side.
Take a look at this picture from the canopy Marc built for his 29 gallon
Here's the link to the actual site:
http://melevsreef.com/pics/1204/evans_canopy.html
This is what I want to make, but on a large scale. The front piece would be 6' x 8". The side about 2' x 8".
So, this is all in my head and I have NOOOOO idea if it will actually work.
Thoughts?
To everyone else, here's what my tank looks like right now, there is an 8" opening above the tank in the front and side:
I want to close it all off with something that will also give me access to the front and side when needed (cleaning, etc).
I've seen alot of plans with so many different ideas, some with some really cool hyrdolic springs and such. Well, I need to keep it simple, lo-tech, and lo-cost for now. So, I'm think of employing something I saw Melev do with a canopy of his. And I want to do it with very lightweight wood. Here's the requirements:
- Simple and lo-tech: I'm not going to use any hinges or any other hardware right now
- Removable: I will have to use light wood, if possible, so that I can take it off at any time
- Seamless: I want to make it look like, when its on, that there is no seam or break.
So, I saw someting Meleve did where he had a "grooved" piece of wood that interlocked, so to speak.
Here's a crude drawing I did on the idea of the hinge:
The piece will lift up and out of the front of the tank. Will have to do one piece for the front and one for the side.
Take a look at this picture from the canopy Marc built for his 29 gallon
Here's the link to the actual site:
http://melevsreef.com/pics/1204/evans_canopy.html
This is what I want to make, but on a large scale. The front piece would be 6' x 8". The side about 2' x 8".
So, this is all in my head and I have NOOOOO idea if it will actually work.
Thoughts?
bheron
Active member
Thanks Jarhead! Its was setups like yours that really helped me out. I'll send an updated pic of the whole room soon.
I have another question for all: My plumbing is just about done and I'm ready to do my first wet run!! My question is, I'm guess its wise to glue all parts now, right? I was hoping I could keep all PVC parts dry fitted so that it would be easier to make the needed adjustments. But, then I was thinking, what's the point of a wet run -- everything should be set right so that any adjustments should be minimal. So I should glue everything, right?
I have another question for all: My plumbing is just about done and I'm ready to do my first wet run!! My question is, I'm guess its wise to glue all parts now, right? I was hoping I could keep all PVC parts dry fitted so that it would be easier to make the needed adjustments. But, then I was thinking, what's the point of a wet run -- everything should be set right so that any adjustments should be minimal. So I should glue everything, right?
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
You definitely want to glue as much as you can at this point.
If you glue everything the wet-test is going to let you determine if there are any leaks before you're up and running with saltwater.. (I had one leaky in my closed loop during my wet test; it was a pain to fix but it would've been much worse if I was up and running).
It also washes out any PVC shavings and cleans out the pipes (most PVC I've encountered is somewhat dusty inside when I get it).
I tend not to glue too much of the in-tank stuff. My closed loop manifolds are glued together enough that they'll keep shape, but otherwise I just friction fit so I could adjust the flow direction, etc later. Same with the the fittings at the end of my tank returns; I didn't glue them so I could redirect if desired.
Go for it, and make sure to post pics!
Tyler
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Bheronmelev said:
Try the stiffeners that are used for wide garage doors. They are galvanized so should resist corrosion.
Alan
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Bheron
A tip for gluing PVC. Get all of your plumbing dry fitted just the way you want. Take a Sharpie and draw a line across the joint between the fitting and the pipe. With the limited time you have to push the parts together it will help you align them exactly as you had them when you dry fitted.
A tip for gluing PVC. Get all of your plumbing dry fitted just the way you want. Take a Sharpie and draw a line across the joint between the fitting and the pipe. With the limited time you have to push the parts together it will help you align them exactly as you had them when you dry fitted.
melev
Well-known member
I think you won't like lifting off the front panel in that manner with it being 6 or 8 feet long. If you had a helper each time, that would be different.
Maybe you can make something similar to what is over original_reefland's tank?
You have to glue those fittings. It would have been a wet-disaster with water coming out of every fitting. Talk about a mess. Then you'd have to dry everything off before gluing.
Maybe you can make something similar to what is over original_reefland's tank?
You have to glue those fittings. It would have been a wet-disaster with water coming out of every fitting. Talk about a mess. Then you'd have to dry everything off before gluing.
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