220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
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bheron
Active member
UPDATE: Responding to comments from Marc, Tyler, Bill and Airman. Also, got some good pics to attach on latest progress.
Marc - thanks so much for the detailed feedback. I actually read this yesterday before leaving the office and have been thinking about it over and over since then (makes a great time killer while sitting in long, boring meetings). Anyway, I havent had a chance to respond b/c of being so busy. And, I really have been contemplating the MH setup b/c of it. I'll respond to your comments:
"One thing RJWilson has stated repeatedly in his new tank thread is that his tank was too tall for T5 penetration. I don't know how tall his tank is now, nor how tall yours is."
- Marc, my tank is 29.5" high. I know thats pretty high and not ideal for a reef tank. Since I'm not planning an all out reef, I'm ok with that. I actually like the look of a higher tank, thats why I went this route. I know, in the end, it will limit me with what I can put on the sand and lower levels of the tank. I'll have to check out RJWilson's thread.
"MHs leave flexibility in your hands, as there are a number of colors (Kelvin ratings) to select from. "
- Really? How so? For some reason, when I think of MH I think of really yellow light.
"T-5 8x80=640w. MH3x250=750w plus actinic supplementation which is more like VHO 320w extra (two 6' actinic bulbs and another ballast). You'd end up with 1070w of PURE POWER shining down on your tank. Anything you or your wife desires would be purchase-worthy, and you'd never have to say "Aw.. we can't have that unfortunately because our lights aren't good enough."
- :rollface: . ha. Yep, fully aware of this. I do know there will be some things I can't keep. Part of me thinks this could be a problem. But then part of me says, "thats cool". Also, 1070W is almost too much in terms of complexity for me. I'd also have to get the extra ballast, maintain it, and supply the power. Finally, I've come to believe that while 640W is less than 1070W, T5s can be much more efficient b/c of their design. I'll have 8 sunlights supply reflectors aiming the 640W more efficiently than the spot light source of MH. I think.
"Convenience is the top issue in my book, and being able to access the tank without lights in my way is the number one function of my day. I have my hand in there daily, if if it is just to move a coral back into position. If it is a hassle, you'll put it off and that item may end up dying because you'll not want to take that extra minute to deal with it."
- This is one of the things really sticking out in my mind. With that said, HOW much easier is it having a boiling hot MH bulb hanging in your way 6-8 inches from the water than having the T5s right there. Both seem to be a nuisance?
"Maybe I should buy a remote thermometer and put the read-out near my computer so I can keep an eye on those numbers more readily. "
- Let me know when you do that!
"fly down here and see my tank. Or go visit a few tanks from the Boston Reefers Society - you can't be that far away as all those states are crunched together, right? "
- Yea, like a 6-7 hour drive from Boston! Actually, this is something I've been thinking about - I really dont have too much experience looking at both in person. So its really making it tough to make a decision. I recently saw a video of someone's tank here on RC that had some MH lights. Thats what I'm basing my vision off of. It looked really cool at first, but after awhile I wasnt so keen on it. Is it possible to check out video's online here, or at least pics, that compare the two?? That would be ideal. I really thiknk that would help me make my decision.
Tyler - thanks for the comments. Espceically since you just implemented the T5s, its really helpful. I'll attempt to resond below....
"Don't worry, sand won't go bad. It'll work just fine."
- Cool. Thanks!
"I have to agree with Marc about the accessibility issue with T5s. My light endcaps are mounted directly to my canopy. This means I have to remove the bulbs completely to access the tank fully. This is a huge pain the neck. I've almost bust a bulb a few times juggling them around. "
-I saw this last night when you posted it and have really been thinking about it. I can envsion the same problems! Hmmmm.
"That said I don't think it has to be a showstopper issue. It just means that if at all possible you should try to mount your lights to some kind of frame that is easily moved. For example, use a frame that is suspended from the top of your canopy with plastic "chain". It would just be a matter of raising the lighting frame up for easy access (unhook and shorten chain). This is something I didn't consider when I did my lights and I regret it already."
- Ok. Something I have an idea for.
"Again with the whole MH versus T5 appearance, I think you've really got to see a MH lit tank to judge the appearance. Glitter lines aside, the light just looks different. It's got a certain quality and intensity to it that makes it look like you're looking in the ocean on a bright clear sunny day.
My T5s are awesome but they don't have this same "punch" to them. Now, you're going to be using 8 T5s so the intensity will definitely be much higher than mine. Just something I noticed though.. Again, not trying to sell you off the T5s, just think you should see a halide tank at some point to see what it's all about ."
- Again, great point as made above. I need to see them before making this decision.
wmfsoll2 - "Alot of work going into this tank setup. Looks like it will be a good setup."
- Thank you!! Thanks for following.
Airman - "Thanks for the detail explanation on the plumbing. I was worried about your display tank draining down to the bottem holes on your overflow but I see the pipe inside of the overflow. everything is looking great."
- Thanks for the vote of confidence!
I'll post pics next!
Marc - thanks so much for the detailed feedback. I actually read this yesterday before leaving the office and have been thinking about it over and over since then (makes a great time killer while sitting in long, boring meetings). Anyway, I havent had a chance to respond b/c of being so busy. And, I really have been contemplating the MH setup b/c of it. I'll respond to your comments:
"One thing RJWilson has stated repeatedly in his new tank thread is that his tank was too tall for T5 penetration. I don't know how tall his tank is now, nor how tall yours is."
- Marc, my tank is 29.5" high. I know thats pretty high and not ideal for a reef tank. Since I'm not planning an all out reef, I'm ok with that. I actually like the look of a higher tank, thats why I went this route. I know, in the end, it will limit me with what I can put on the sand and lower levels of the tank. I'll have to check out RJWilson's thread.
"MHs leave flexibility in your hands, as there are a number of colors (Kelvin ratings) to select from. "
- Really? How so? For some reason, when I think of MH I think of really yellow light.
"T-5 8x80=640w. MH3x250=750w plus actinic supplementation which is more like VHO 320w extra (two 6' actinic bulbs and another ballast). You'd end up with 1070w of PURE POWER shining down on your tank. Anything you or your wife desires would be purchase-worthy, and you'd never have to say "Aw.. we can't have that unfortunately because our lights aren't good enough."
- :rollface: . ha. Yep, fully aware of this. I do know there will be some things I can't keep. Part of me thinks this could be a problem. But then part of me says, "thats cool". Also, 1070W is almost too much in terms of complexity for me. I'd also have to get the extra ballast, maintain it, and supply the power. Finally, I've come to believe that while 640W is less than 1070W, T5s can be much more efficient b/c of their design. I'll have 8 sunlights supply reflectors aiming the 640W more efficiently than the spot light source of MH. I think.
"Convenience is the top issue in my book, and being able to access the tank without lights in my way is the number one function of my day. I have my hand in there daily, if if it is just to move a coral back into position. If it is a hassle, you'll put it off and that item may end up dying because you'll not want to take that extra minute to deal with it."
- This is one of the things really sticking out in my mind. With that said, HOW much easier is it having a boiling hot MH bulb hanging in your way 6-8 inches from the water than having the T5s right there. Both seem to be a nuisance?
"Maybe I should buy a remote thermometer and put the read-out near my computer so I can keep an eye on those numbers more readily. "
- Let me know when you do that!
"fly down here and see my tank. Or go visit a few tanks from the Boston Reefers Society - you can't be that far away as all those states are crunched together, right? "
- Yea, like a 6-7 hour drive from Boston! Actually, this is something I've been thinking about - I really dont have too much experience looking at both in person. So its really making it tough to make a decision. I recently saw a video of someone's tank here on RC that had some MH lights. Thats what I'm basing my vision off of. It looked really cool at first, but after awhile I wasnt so keen on it. Is it possible to check out video's online here, or at least pics, that compare the two?? That would be ideal. I really thiknk that would help me make my decision.
Tyler - thanks for the comments. Espceically since you just implemented the T5s, its really helpful. I'll attempt to resond below....
"Don't worry, sand won't go bad. It'll work just fine."
- Cool. Thanks!
"I have to agree with Marc about the accessibility issue with T5s. My light endcaps are mounted directly to my canopy. This means I have to remove the bulbs completely to access the tank fully. This is a huge pain the neck. I've almost bust a bulb a few times juggling them around. "
-I saw this last night when you posted it and have really been thinking about it. I can envsion the same problems! Hmmmm.
"That said I don't think it has to be a showstopper issue. It just means that if at all possible you should try to mount your lights to some kind of frame that is easily moved. For example, use a frame that is suspended from the top of your canopy with plastic "chain". It would just be a matter of raising the lighting frame up for easy access (unhook and shorten chain). This is something I didn't consider when I did my lights and I regret it already."
- Ok. Something I have an idea for.
"Again with the whole MH versus T5 appearance, I think you've really got to see a MH lit tank to judge the appearance. Glitter lines aside, the light just looks different. It's got a certain quality and intensity to it that makes it look like you're looking in the ocean on a bright clear sunny day.
My T5s are awesome but they don't have this same "punch" to them. Now, you're going to be using 8 T5s so the intensity will definitely be much higher than mine. Just something I noticed though.. Again, not trying to sell you off the T5s, just think you should see a halide tank at some point to see what it's all about ."
- Again, great point as made above. I need to see them before making this decision.
wmfsoll2 - "Alot of work going into this tank setup. Looks like it will be a good setup."
- Thank you!! Thanks for following.
Airman - "Thanks for the detail explanation on the plumbing. I was worried about your display tank draining down to the bottem holes on your overflow but I see the pipe inside of the overflow. everything is looking great."
- Thanks for the vote of confidence!
I'll post pics next!
melev
Well-known member
The boiling hot MH bulbs shouldn't be touched. 
So far, I've heeded that advice well, and have no scars to mumble about. Plus, you have room to work under the lights without having to move them. I have mine in a rolling rack that has been really nice, so I can push them back about 12" or push them forward 12" (to work from the back of the tank).
MH bulbs come in 6500K (yellow), 10,000K (blue/white), 14,000K (more blue), or 20,000K (very blue). I prefer 10,000Ks such as those made by XM. Ushios are a bit too yellow to me, but the actinic VHOs resolve that. I have a 20,000K bulb over my tank in the dead center, but because the PAR (intensity) of a 20,000K bulb is quite a bit less than the PAR of a 10,000K bulb, my 20,000K bulb is 400w and my 10,000K bulbs are 250w. Boy, I feel sorry for you to have to read and understand that. In a nutshell, because of the different PAR, usng 400w and 250w bulbs equalize the PAR pretty evenly.
In the Reef Discussion forum, there is a Video thread at the top of the page. You can go through those and watch them. You can also look at this page:
http://www.coralreefecosystems.com/ltg_bulb_color.htm
and
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/lamps.cfm
Is there no club in your area?
My tank is 30" tall, and the lighting I use works. However, it would be possible to add more lights or more wattage if I thought it was really needed.
Buying used can save you a lot of money, as much as 50% of new.
So far, I've heeded that advice well, and have no scars to mumble about. Plus, you have room to work under the lights without having to move them. I have mine in a rolling rack that has been really nice, so I can push them back about 12" or push them forward 12" (to work from the back of the tank).MH bulbs come in 6500K (yellow), 10,000K (blue/white), 14,000K (more blue), or 20,000K (very blue). I prefer 10,000Ks such as those made by XM. Ushios are a bit too yellow to me, but the actinic VHOs resolve that. I have a 20,000K bulb over my tank in the dead center, but because the PAR (intensity) of a 20,000K bulb is quite a bit less than the PAR of a 10,000K bulb, my 20,000K bulb is 400w and my 10,000K bulbs are 250w. Boy, I feel sorry for you to have to read and understand that. In a nutshell, because of the different PAR, usng 400w and 250w bulbs equalize the PAR pretty evenly.
In the Reef Discussion forum, there is a Video thread at the top of the page. You can go through those and watch them. You can also look at this page:
http://www.coralreefecosystems.com/ltg_bulb_color.htm
and
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/lamps.cfm
Is there no club in your area?
My tank is 30" tall, and the lighting I use works. However, it would be possible to add more lights or more wattage if I thought it was really needed.
Buying used can save you a lot of money, as much as 50% of new.
tgunn
Active member
How about like this?
Heh.
I think you have to look at what is going to best suit your needs right now and in the near future. If you think that the T5s are going to work best for you because of the cost savings for bulbs and power, and you really like the look of the T5 tanks, then I say go for it. If you can see a halide lit tank some time it would probably be a decent idea; it just gives you an idea what it's all about. But if you can't, I'm sure you'll be happy with the T5s.
For accessibility though, just make sure to mount the lights some way you can access the tank. As I said, I regret not having planned for that..
I'm not sure if you've seen a T5 only lit tank, but I can take a short video of my tank and post it for you to see if you like (helk, I'll probably do that anyways
)... Keep in mind color rendering is horrible with videos; I shot a few seconds of mine with the lights on and the colors were way off. Might be able to adjust, but who knows.Tyler
bheron
Active member
Marc, actually your explanation of the watt and PAR differences does make sense! I read that great thread by Waterkeeper. Read it a few times and I'm starting to pick it up.
There is a reef club in my area but I just havent had the time to committ. But thats probably a good way to see some of these in person. Hmmmm.
Thanks for those links! I will have to check them out tonight.
I'm all up for buying used but for something as tricky as lighting, I'd have to buy it from someone I totally trusted. With that said, if you see something that might be up my alley, by all means let me know!!!
Tyler, that would be cool to see a video of your T5s in action. I already saw the one of your YT feeding in QT. And, I do know, it doesnt replace seeing something in person! Maybe I'd better check out the next local meeting of the club in my area.
Thanks guys! If anything, I've learned once again to take my time here. This isnt something I need, or should, rush into.
There is a reef club in my area but I just havent had the time to committ. But thats probably a good way to see some of these in person. Hmmmm.
Thanks for those links! I will have to check them out tonight.
I'm all up for buying used but for something as tricky as lighting, I'd have to buy it from someone I totally trusted. With that said, if you see something that might be up my alley, by all means let me know!!!
Tyler, that would be cool to see a video of your T5s in action. I already saw the one of your YT feeding in QT. And, I do know, it doesnt replace seeing something in person! Maybe I'd better check out the next local meeting of the club in my area.
Thanks guys! If anything, I've learned once again to take my time here. This isnt something I need, or should, rush into.
melev
Well-known member
You gotta go visit some club member's tanks. That is the only way to make a good decision. Plus that way you make some local friends that you can turn to in a pinch, and learn from what they've done. There is a lot of creativity in this hobby, and everyone comes up with interesting ways to accomplish things. Some are safer than others. :eek2: 
I'd hold off at the moment, and spent a couple of weeks visiting some tanks set up in your area. And when you tell them what you've got going, they are all going to want to see your new tank as well.
:beer:
I'd hold off at the moment, and spent a couple of weeks visiting some tanks set up in your area. And when you tell them what you've got going, they are all going to want to see your new tank as well.
:beer:
bheron
Active member
Anybody know how to prevent your browser from going "BACK" when you hit your Backspace key??? I just lost, for the billionth time, my post while writing and hitting the backspace key to edit the text.
AHHHHHHH. Anyway, here I go again...
While I continue to contemplate my lighting choices, I figured I'd post some pics to update on my progress.
1) First, some pics of the plumbing of the 15G Holding Tank.
(for those of you who havent read this whole thread, I'm implementing sort of a "QT/Holding Tank" to be used for housing specimens AFTER QT and BEFORE release into the display. Not sure if it will pan out to be anything great, but I got the idea when I saw this 15 gallon glass tank, pre-drilled, for sale at my LFS for like $15!)
Anyway, the first pic here shows the branch in the Return plumbing off to the side:
It drains in the back via a simple bulkhead I made out of PVC Male/Female threaded unions and rubber gaskets. You can see it in the back right where it drops below the stand:
Underneath the stand it crosses over to the sump:
The split downwards is for my future Rubbermaid fuge I'm going to install. It splits down via a ball valve. The rest continues to the sump return (below):
And then joins the rest of the plumbing to the return area.
2) Next, I have pics of my water filling process. I originally grabbed the camera b/c I laid down the 50lb bag of Southdown. Pretty exciting!
I'm a fan of the look of a sandbed. Dont want a barebottom or a DSB. So I'm going with about an inch or less of Southdown.
3) The filling process. I already have 75 gallons of RODI sitting in my sump. But I've connected my RODI directly to the display. I'm not able to let it run all day and also have it trickle slowly into the tnak without disturbing the sand too much.
Exciting! I woke up this AM and had a few inches of water already. Bought some extra (25') tubing last night to do this and also to employ the "warming" method Marc pointed me to so that it will speed up a bit.
EDIT: here's another photo I found - cool pic looking through the tank out to the main room:
AHHHHHHH. Anyway, here I go again...
While I continue to contemplate my lighting choices, I figured I'd post some pics to update on my progress.
1) First, some pics of the plumbing of the 15G Holding Tank.
(for those of you who havent read this whole thread, I'm implementing sort of a "QT/Holding Tank" to be used for housing specimens AFTER QT and BEFORE release into the display. Not sure if it will pan out to be anything great, but I got the idea when I saw this 15 gallon glass tank, pre-drilled, for sale at my LFS for like $15!)
Anyway, the first pic here shows the branch in the Return plumbing off to the side:
It drains in the back via a simple bulkhead I made out of PVC Male/Female threaded unions and rubber gaskets. You can see it in the back right where it drops below the stand:
Underneath the stand it crosses over to the sump:
The split downwards is for my future Rubbermaid fuge I'm going to install. It splits down via a ball valve. The rest continues to the sump return (below):
And then joins the rest of the plumbing to the return area.
2) Next, I have pics of my water filling process. I originally grabbed the camera b/c I laid down the 50lb bag of Southdown. Pretty exciting!
I'm a fan of the look of a sandbed. Dont want a barebottom or a DSB. So I'm going with about an inch or less of Southdown.
3) The filling process. I already have 75 gallons of RODI sitting in my sump. But I've connected my RODI directly to the display. I'm not able to let it run all day and also have it trickle slowly into the tnak without disturbing the sand too much.
Exciting! I woke up this AM and had a few inches of water already. Bought some extra (25') tubing last night to do this and also to employ the "warming" method Marc pointed me to so that it will speed up a bit.
EDIT: here's another photo I found - cool pic looking through the tank out to the main room:
Last edited:
bheron
Active member
Marc - you guys are good! Man, I cant get anything by you. Yes, youre right, there's a gap. Here's what happened, what I did, and tell me what you thinlk:.
I completely mismeasured the width of the QT tnak when I build the stand. My only measuring screwup, but a kinda big one to begin with. The tank is 2" wider than the stand. Tyler orginally caught it last week before I fixed it. I took a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and put it underneath. Then, I supported it by a piece of 2x4, the width of the tank, and screwed it into the wall. So, yes, the tank is fully supported. There's only a 1.5" gap where the 1/2" plywood isnt supported by anything. But I think that should be ok for a tank that may only have @12 gallons of water in it??
I completely mismeasured the width of the QT tnak when I build the stand. My only measuring screwup, but a kinda big one to begin with. The tank is 2" wider than the stand. Tyler orginally caught it last week before I fixed it. I took a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and put it underneath. Then, I supported it by a piece of 2x4, the width of the tank, and screwed it into the wall. So, yes, the tank is fully supported. There's only a 1.5" gap where the 1/2" plywood isnt supported by anything. But I think that should be ok for a tank that may only have @12 gallons of water in it??
melev
Well-known member
I'm not talking about that gap. That isn't a problem. However, the plywood isn't sitting flat on the original platform. At least, that is what it looks like in the picture above. So is that happening because the PVC from the bulkhead is lifting it up slightly? Or is your strip of wood on the wall to high compared to the original surface?
I like that extra image you added.
I like that extra image you added.
bheron
Active member
marc - ah, i completely see what youre saying now. you know, i didnt even notice this while looking at it every day. amazing what pics can show you. i have a feeling, 95%, that its the quality of plywood i'm using. i think its a bit bowed. its the particle type plywood. i'm pretty sure, when i just have the tank on the stand, its level. but i will now have to go home and check it to be sure. thanks!
yea, i took that pic w/out a flash and it really came out nice!
yea, i took that pic w/out a flash and it really came out nice!
weatherson
Premium Member
I'm thinking maybe it's Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Maybe? If it's Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) or particle board, get rid of it as Marc mentions.
bheron
Active member
I'll take a pic of it and post it. I think its just cheaper end plywood. Its sold as plywood but i think its more the particle type, if that even makes sense. I'll take a pic.
As far as MDF - I used that for the tops of my two work areas. Had no idea that would go bad if wet. I did do a coat of kilz and then a coay of satin white paint, if that helps?
As far as MDF - I used that for the tops of my two work areas. Had no idea that would go bad if wet. I did do a coat of kilz and then a coay of satin white paint, if that helps?
melev
Well-known member
Yes, that will help. I have a night stand I made out of MDF 5 years ago that was painted with glossy white, and now when I leave a glass of ice tea on there to sweat, the wood is bubbling up enough to be an eyesore. I'm debating sanding it down and repainting it, or putting a nice piece of acrylic on it to solve the problem permanently.
bheron
Active member
HAha, Marc, you solve everything with your "Gift" with acrylic?! :rollface:
I checked, its regular plywood! I guess b/c I had some of that cheap particle type stuff up in the garage when making shelves made me think that was it. So, thats cool.
But, the other news is that I found out why there's a gap! The piece of 2x4 I have it resting on is about 3/4" too high, lifting the board up a bit, hence the gap! Duh. How did I not see that? So, its a quick adjustment to fix.
In other news, with my pursuit of the perfect lighting system, Ive done two things:
1) Checked out the next meetings for the two reef clubs in my area. The club right close to me has their next one on Nov 20th (just missed the last meeting where they had Michael Palletta there!). And, the one a little further away (1hr) has their next meeting this Sat! So, I may hit that one this weekend.
2) On a hunch, I realized one of the best know places to buy lights, Champion LIghting, is also local to me. I called them up and learned they dont have a showroom b/c their a distributor, but they'd be happy to have me come in and check out the one setup they do have - a 180g tank with two 250w MHs! Pretty close to what I'd be looking for. The only difference, most likely, is that the 180 is not as tall as my 220. I best the rest of the dims are the same. So, I'm gonna take a drive down there, look at the tank, and see what their prices are.
If I like what I see, you guys have to help me decipher the myraid of MH options out there, ok?!!!
PS - my tank it making slow progress with the RODI filling, but its coming along. Its about 25% filled and I have another 35g left over in the sump. I havent had a chance yet, but tonight I will employ the heater method to speed it up.
I checked, its regular plywood! I guess b/c I had some of that cheap particle type stuff up in the garage when making shelves made me think that was it. So, thats cool.
But, the other news is that I found out why there's a gap! The piece of 2x4 I have it resting on is about 3/4" too high, lifting the board up a bit, hence the gap! Duh. How did I not see that? So, its a quick adjustment to fix.
In other news, with my pursuit of the perfect lighting system, Ive done two things:
1) Checked out the next meetings for the two reef clubs in my area. The club right close to me has their next one on Nov 20th (just missed the last meeting where they had Michael Palletta there!). And, the one a little further away (1hr) has their next meeting this Sat! So, I may hit that one this weekend.
2) On a hunch, I realized one of the best know places to buy lights, Champion LIghting, is also local to me. I called them up and learned they dont have a showroom b/c their a distributor, but they'd be happy to have me come in and check out the one setup they do have - a 180g tank with two 250w MHs! Pretty close to what I'd be looking for. The only difference, most likely, is that the 180 is not as tall as my 220. I best the rest of the dims are the same. So, I'm gonna take a drive down there, look at the tank, and see what their prices are.
If I like what I see, you guys have to help me decipher the myraid of MH options out there, ok?!!!
PS - my tank it making slow progress with the RODI filling, but its coming along. Its about 25% filled and I have another 35g left over in the sump. I havent had a chance yet, but tonight I will employ the heater method to speed it up.
melev
Well-known member
Very good. I always encourage people to join their local club because it will benefit you in the long run. Imagine having heard what Mike Paletta had to share. Even if you know a lot, there is always something you'll come away with, because the sharing of ideas sparks the imagination.
I just read a thread last night and this guy is 100% positive his T5s were killing his corals. I know, I know... it sounds extreme but there is something to be gained from that feedback. You never hear about MH killing corals, just because of the light they produce.
I just read a thread last night and this guy is 100% positive his T5s were killing his corals. I know, I know... it sounds extreme but there is something to be gained from that feedback. You never hear about MH killing corals, just because of the light they produce.
bheron
Active member
Can you guys check out the below links? I'm going to visit this place that distributes the below. Have no idea if these are valid setups if I were to go MH. Two thoughts to keep in mind:
1) Since my setup is in wall, Retro is a viable option?
2) I already have a 110W PC light, and a 70W HO light. Would I need the supplemental PC or VHO lights listed below?
Here's their three main options:
MH Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=560
MH/PC Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=557
MH/VHO Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=546
THoughts?
1) Since my setup is in wall, Retro is a viable option?
2) I already have a 110W PC light, and a 70W HO light. Would I need the supplemental PC or VHO lights listed below?
Here's their three main options:
MH Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=560
MH/PC Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=557
MH/VHO Retros:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=546
THoughts?
- Status
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