2300G Cylinder - Preview
- Thread starter Diablo
- Start date
camaroboy8691
New member
hope all is well down under , excited to see some updates !
Hi all,
Sorry for the time between drinks... finishing the sub-floor in my sump room has taken me much longer than expected.
Here are my 4 FTI pumps wired up and ready to go (because they are industrial, they do not come with a standard power cord and I had to wire them up myself).
6 x 1000W BLV (Ushio) Nepturon lamps & 4 solatubes
Testing an Orphek DIF-100
DIF-100 close-up
Sump room sub-floor right hand side covered with fibreglass grill
Sump room sub-floor left hand side covered with fibreglass grill
Pumps in place. The two main pumps (sump to aquarium) are fully connected wtih spaflex. The other two are for skimmer and frag tanks. The tee on the outlets is for the connection of pressure sensors that will be used to monitor and alarm 4 main pumps.
Another shot
Inputs through the wall. To the right of this shot is the closed loop for the swimming pool heat exchanger. To the top is the input from the outside water tank to the sump for filling and waterchanges.
Shot showing 2 x drains from the main aquarium in 4" DVW pipe. To the left is the ball valve that automatic waterchange system will be connected to. Its a bit messy, but you can also see some compressor hose. Before opting for the hydrowizards, I was planning to do surge tanks using pneumatic gate valves.
Sorry for the time between drinks... finishing the sub-floor in my sump room has taken me much longer than expected.
Here are my 4 FTI pumps wired up and ready to go (because they are industrial, they do not come with a standard power cord and I had to wire them up myself).
6 x 1000W BLV (Ushio) Nepturon lamps & 4 solatubes
Testing an Orphek DIF-100
DIF-100 close-up
Sump room sub-floor right hand side covered with fibreglass grill
Sump room sub-floor left hand side covered with fibreglass grill
Pumps in place. The two main pumps (sump to aquarium) are fully connected wtih spaflex. The other two are for skimmer and frag tanks. The tee on the outlets is for the connection of pressure sensors that will be used to monitor and alarm 4 main pumps.
Another shot
Inputs through the wall. To the right of this shot is the closed loop for the swimming pool heat exchanger. To the top is the input from the outside water tank to the sump for filling and waterchanges.
Shot showing 2 x drains from the main aquarium in 4" DVW pipe. To the left is the ball valve that automatic waterchange system will be connected to. Its a bit messy, but you can also see some compressor hose. Before opting for the hydrowizards, I was planning to do surge tanks using pneumatic gate valves.
Lps157
New member
Amazing build! So glad to see some updates.
I can tell you know very well what you are doing. One thought though, you may consider replacing those isolation valves you have for your pumps with something a little more reliable. I replace those thing all the time in my line of work because after only a few months they become very difficult to turn.
Good luck and thanks for the update!
I can tell you know very well what you are doing. One thought though, you may consider replacing those isolation valves you have for your pumps with something a little more reliable. I replace those thing all the time in my line of work because after only a few months they become very difficult to turn.
Good luck and thanks for the update!
jnarowe
New member
So you lined the sumps with PVC sheet? It looks like in places it's not adhered to the concrete? And Dan is right about all the schedule 40 ball and gate valves. I sure wish you were using better quality valves. The ball valves at the pumps will have to be turned on and off fairly regularly to keep them operating. In my experience, they age rather quickly and will seize up. Also, they seem to wear down due to particulates in the water column, and eventually become useless for turning the water completely off. Of even more concern is that there is no union that I can see on one side of the valve. If you can, I would cut these out and replace with schedule 80 dual union valves. I know it's a PITA, but better now than when there's a problem, and the system is full of water.
I love the combo of rustic and modern in the home and grounds. VERY nicely done.
I love the combo of rustic and modern in the home and grounds. VERY nicely done.
paul wheeles
New member
All I have is WOW!!! It all looks great.
launchnukes
New member
Water?!?!?!?!?! Can't wait. Looking good!
) a couple of weeks ago, the solatubes are massive!!!
Great update Mark!
One question about the solatubes: are you planning any kind of colour correction. The naked sunlight can be a little on the warmer side of the colour spectrum, which can feed algae. I've seen several discussions about using some sort of bluish film to tweak a higher kelvin spectrum (more reflective of the depth these corals have adapted to). Perhaps you can find a translucent or slightly tinted film to filter the yellow/red out of the sunlight to achieve a similar effect of 20-30 feet of ocean water depth... could save you a lot of algae related headaches in the future..
Sheldon
One question about the solatubes: are you planning any kind of colour correction. The naked sunlight can be a little on the warmer side of the colour spectrum, which can feed algae. I've seen several discussions about using some sort of bluish film to tweak a higher kelvin spectrum (more reflective of the depth these corals have adapted to). Perhaps you can find a translucent or slightly tinted film to filter the yellow/red out of the sunlight to achieve a similar effect of 20-30 feet of ocean water depth... could save you a lot of algae related headaches in the future..
Sheldon
