240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

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weatherson said:
matt & pam, mylittleocean: they are in a push/pull configuration with one blowing room air into the light box and the other, at the opposite end, blowing heated air out of the light box.
Joseph

Same as me and I have the "pull" fan pushing into the attic via 4" dryer flex hose. My room still gets hot. You do not have any other ventalation in the roome to remove heat?
 
mylittleocean: I have the ceiling fan on high 24/7 in the tank room. During the not so hot months, I have a stationary fan on a floor stand aimed through the door to force air out of the room and into the rest of the house. I also have a box fan at the window that moves cool, outside air into the room.

When it gets too hot outside, I have a portable AC unit that keeps the room cool with all the fans off except the ceiling one. This one always helps with evaporation and to drop the tank temp a few degrees. With the whole-house AC run at comfortable levels, the in-room portable AC unit doesn't have to work very hard at all but adds in the extra bit to keep things at acceptable levels. If anything, it mostly just counteracts what heat the chiller is dumping into the room. How's that for complicated? ;) I'm considering a remotely located (outside) chiller that I would plumb through the wall but this will require a lot of work including running a power source out there.

Winter months, I direct the hot air from the light box, through the wall and into the main living area of the house. Needless to say, my house heater works considerably less than it used to prior to this arrangement. ;) It's nice to recoup some of the energy wasted by the lights, though.

Joseph
 
DerekW: You say that like it's a bad thing. ;) Seriously, no more than what is in the tank room which is minimal. I run carbon on my skimmer's air outlet which helps tremendously.

Joseph
 
closed loop question

closed loop question

I just set up a new prop system with two main tanks and an 80 gallon sump. On one of my tanks I drilled it for a closed loop. I have two 1" bulkheads in the back of the tank about 2-3" off of the bottom of the tank. I have both of the bulkheads connecting to one 1" pvc with a ball valve and union which goes to the pump. I am using a blueline 40 hd-x. THe output is split into four 1" pvc which goes to bulkheads and 3/4" plumbing in the tank. My problem is that when I turn the pump on it makes a rattling noise like there is something in the pump, but I took it apart like three times and it still continues to rattle. Is it possible that the increased flow going into the pump, because it draws water from the bottom of the tank, could make the impeller vibrate back and forth? THe pump is located below the tank about 1.5 feet. THe only way to make the pump quiet is to partially close the ball vale on the intake of the pump, which reduces the flow greatly. Did I do something wrong with the plumbing? Any help would be appreciated. thanks
 
weatherson said:
DerekW: You say that like it's a bad thing. ;) Seriously, no more than what is in the tank room which is minimal. I run carbon on my skimmer's air outlet which helps tremendously.

Joseph

I use to have a similiar set-up, my skimmer dumped its air into the fish room. I used carbon on the exit. After a while I got tired of changing the carbon. I decided to run a line outside for my skimmer's waste air. Now I do not have to change carbon. The biggest benefit is I don't have a skimmer dumping moisture rich air into the fish room, and bringing up the humidity.
 
Yeah, I had to run 2 dehumidifiers in the basement, and turn the humidifier on my furnace off this winter, all the cold water pipes were dripping, windows were foggy. And in Canada, it is dry, dry, dry in the winter. I need to vent air outside. it means I'll have to drill a hole through cement blocks to get it outside...sounds like work ;(
 
WOW:eek1: :eek1: :eek1:

I just finished a speed read of the entire post, simply amazing. If my final 180 system is 25% of what you have created Ill be happy :)

I would hate to pay your electric bill, the same system in Wisconsin would be $177(.08 x 2213 KW a month) a month, so I assume in california is $400+.

Steve
 
barrettrhoades: I'm not sure what would be causing the noisy pump. Could be the pump is worn or defective or it could be some type of cavitation happening if air was getting into the lines. I'm not sure and you would be best served by posting your question in a new thread for everyone to see and respond to.

littlesilvermax: As already mentioned, humidity levels are geographically related and as such, not a real huge concern or issue here in California. But if it were, your suggestion would be a worthwhile way to go.

CPT. MURPHY: Umm... What is? ;)

cseeton: True, but I'll bet that you don't have 110-degree summers either. ;)

DerekW: And I complain when I have to cut through an inch of stucco. ;)

Steve: Thanks you very much for the kind words. Unfortunately, electricity here in California isn't what you would call a "bargain". It's just one of the necessities required to keep a reef tank that makes you question it's worth every month. But I always come to the same conclusion... it's worth it. ;)

Joseph
 
Joseph

I am relatively new to the hobby. About 2 years into 120G reef and planning my next 250G reef. I am impressed with your innovations and skill. My question relates to pumps. In my case I have a very large livving room but no adjacent space for equipment. I am looking for very quite pumps for both circulation and equipment (e.g. skimmer). Is there a reason that you selected Iwaki in most cases and not Sequence or AmpMaster which seem to be more quite and efficient. Will the dual becket skimmer work well with a sequence (or Dolphin AM) pump?

Thanks
Joseph
 
Yossia: Thank you for the kind words. As far as pumps go, I have used an Amp Master 3000 for the circulation and in fact, it was extremely quiet. Problem was that it consistently leaked at the impeller shaft seal (supposedly fixed since then) but more importantly, the motor lost much of it's power and the flow rate suffered greatly while at the same time, using more electricity. Others her on RC have experienced this as well. I attributed this decline in performance to poor quality of build. I have since switched to a Sequence (4300) pump and have been extremely happy with it's performance. No leaks, plenty of flow, very quiet and this has stayed consistent for a long period of time.

As far as utilizing an AM or sequence pump instead of the Iwaki for pressure rated duty, I don't feel there is a model that will compare to say the Iwaki 100 for sheer pressure. Look closely at the rated flow and specifically, the head pressure. The Iwaki will provide a much greater head pressure which is required for a dual Beckett skimmer to work most efficiently. The Beckett injectors restrict flow and create much back pressure so this type of pump is required to move enough water through them and at high velocity. In doing so, the injectors create more and finer bubbles which is ideal. If there is a comparable Sequence pump, I would still resort back to the Iwaki's for there quality of build and extreme longevity of service. They are a little more expensive but this is a true case of "You get what you pay for.".

Joseph
 
I was lucky to have a fellow local reefer who decided to sell his Canon Digital Rebel camera and lenses. This included the 100 mm macro lens that I'd used before. I'm still learning this amazing camera but managed to get a few decent shots today despite my lack of familiarity. Here they are...

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Joseph
 
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