240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

[weatherson]

Bryan,

Here's a link to Amazon's site to the Rope Ratchet in the event Lowe's has discontinued carrying them...
Rope Ratchet @ Amazon.com
As light in weight as the T5's are, I'd think you could get by with something like this (top view)...

You may want to use 1" square tubing for the runners and 2" flat stock for the cross pieces. The triangulating brace could be 1.5" or maybe even 1" flat stock.
If space isn't an issue, you could build it wide enough so that the light fixtures fit between the square tubing runners. This way, you have access to the top side of the cross braces which would allow you to use stainless steel nuts and bolts to fasten them. Just some ideas for you.

Joseph

 

[weatherson]

I was doing a late night flashlight viewing last night and one of my Cowrie's was out and in full glory. Of course, this prompted a photo taking session. But first, here's a shot of it taken back on March 11 of this year when I first found this guy (Not sure how it came to be in my tank) and next to one of my Linkia's for size reference...

So here it is last night (early this morning). These first two shots were taken with one of the sets of VHO's (super actinic) on and with the camera flash...

The next three shots were taken with just the camera flash for lighting. Note the partly receded mantle exposing the colorful shell below as well as the size of its foot.

What I'm most amazed with is the rate at which it has grown in just a relatively short period of time. At this rate, I should have a 12" cowrie by next year.

Joseph

 

[bheron]

Hey Joseph - thats what Im talkin' about!! Thanks so much - see, Im no engineer. And then you take an idea and make it better. I can see how that design makes more sense, and Im gonna go with it.

Also, good point about the stainless steel nuts and bolts. But it now makes me wonder - why not use them throughout the whole rack, instead of rivets? I will have to buy a rivet tool so Im wondering if I can secure the whole thing with nuts and bolts?? Or are rivets better?

Also, now that I have a better idea of this ratchet, I can see if I can find one. thanks!

Thanks so much for helping me figure out this design. I'll keep you updated!

 

[weatherson]

Bryan,

Bolts wouldn't work "as well" due to the aluminum square tubing collapsing as they are tightened. That and the rivet version would look much cleaner. You can purchase rivet guns very cheap...
Harbor Freight @ $7.
or...
Sears @ $18. with a swivel head.
If you go the nut and bolt route, be sure to get nylon lock nuts and again, all in stainless steel.

The rope ratchet at Lowe's was in the rope department. Good luck with your build.

Joseph.

 

[bheron]

Joseph,
Thanks. I'll stick with the riveting. Yea, the one I see at HD and Lowes is $19.99. $7 is much more reasonable, but I think I need to start this project asap.

A'right, I'll check out the rope section for the ratchet to be sure.

Thanks again Joseph.

 

[thor32766]

wow beautiful cowrie!

 

[rdmpe]

Hi Weatherson, what an incredible tank! Wow. I have a couple of questions for you, then I'm going to go back and skim over this thread from the beginning, at which time I'm sure I'll have 100 more questions

Where in the world did you find that linckia? It's white with red and blue stripes? The cowrie is awesome as well. Do you feed it anything in particular or does it just scavenge? I was just posting on Melev's thread that I was scared to buy a big one from the LFS cuz I was afraid it would starve in my tank...

 

[weatherson]

thor32766,
I agree completely.

rdmpe,
Thank you very much. I assume you are referring to this Linkia...

Its colors are shades of grey and blue. I found it at the wholesalers in Los Angeles. It's very unique and quite beautiful.

The cowrie has survived on its own and I see it only every month or two. It's strictly nocturnal and I've yet to see it actually eating anything but it obviously does. I would think though, that a well established tank is a prerequisite to obtaining one.

Joseph.

 

[Hop]

Great shots as usual!

Any chance of an updated, full-shot of the equipment room? I've been pirating ideas as I go from your old shots But would like to see a full shot of the changes you have made along the way!

 

[bheron]

Hey Joseph, Im back! A few more questions on the riveting and light rack:

1) can you remove rivets once they're set? Seems to me like you cant.

2) along the same lines, how should I attach my T5 end caps to the aluminum tubing or flat pieces? Maybe stainless steel screws so I can remove them??

Thanks again!

 

[weatherson]

Hop,
Thanks for the kind words. Ironically, I just returned a wide angle lens I had borrowed from a friend that would have worked very well for a back-of-tank shot. I'll try it with my 28-135 when I get a chance. Although, not much has changed since the last shot with the exception of the new calcium reactor second chamber and an air injection system I placed on one of my closed loops. The latter is currently an experiment and may not be permanent.

Bryan,
Yes, rivets are removable by simply drilling them out with the same size bit you originally used to create the hole you inserted them in.

For attaching the end caps to the light rack, I would use small, stainless steel bolts, flat washers and nylon lock nuts. This is why I mentioned to make the rack wide enough, if possible, so the lights fit between the square tubing runners. That way, you have plenty of room/access to the nuts on the topside of the rack. Assemble the lights with end caps properly, lay them out and carefully mark your hole to be drilled in the flat cross pieces. If you drill a hole slightly larger than needed, you'll provide enough slack to adjust for slight alignment needs. I'm not completely familiar with T5 end-caps but you will probably have to unbolt one end when changing bulbs. Not a big deal in my mind. Overall though, I'd feel much more comfortable with nuts and bolts as opposed to just sheet metal screws tapped into the aluminum cross pieces. I tend to lean more toward overbuilding if for nothing else but peace of mind. Considering your near electrical fire, I'd think you have a new found liking for the same.

Joseph.

 

[bheron]

Thanks Joseph.

rivets are removable by simply drilling them out with the same size bit you originally used to create the hole you inserted them in.

- Cool. Wasnt sure about that. Good, so I can hopefully fix any mistakes or make changes if needed.

For attaching the end caps to the light rack, I would use small, stainless steel bolts, flat washers and nylon lock nuts.

- Ok, got it. I've never heard of/seen nylon lock nuts, but Im sure HD has them.

If you drill a hole slightly larger than needed, you'll provide enough slack to adjust for slight alignment needs.

Thanks for the tips. I am starting the project this week since the weekend was so busy. Also, I happened to be helping a friend of mine on Sunday and, as a thank you, he's gonna have his aluminum builders put together a kick-a** light box, free of charge! I will probably build this interim version first since it meets all of my key requirements. But down the road it'll be nice to add some sheet aluminum, some fans, and an exhuast vent like you have with yours. He said they'd be ablt to do that no prob. Oh, and I can also borrow their rivet gun if I want, saving the cost to buy a new one.

Thanks again!
- This is a great idea! Will save me down the road for sure.

I'm not completely familiar with T5 end-caps but you will probably have to unbolt one end when changing bulbs. Not a big deal in my mind.

- Actually, with the set I have, you dont have to unbolt the endcaps. Its quite easy. Just unscrew the cover holding the bulb tight in the endcap, slight it down the bulb, twist and pull. When you twist the bulb, it turns the slot allowing you to slide the bulb directly out of the top/bottom of the endcap. Very handy.

tend to lean more toward overbuilding if for nothing else but peace of mind. Considering your near electrical fire, I'd think you have a new found liking for the same.

- YES!!!


Thanks for the tips. I am starting the project this week since the weekend was so busy. Also, I happened to be helping a friend of mine on Sunday and, as a thank you, he's gonna have his aluminum builders put together a kick-a** light box, free of charge! I will probably build this interim version first since it meets all of my key requirements. But down the road it'll be nice to add some sheet aluminum, some fans, and an exhuast vent like you have with yours. He said they'd be ablt to do that no prob. Oh, and I can also borrow their rivet gun if I want, saving the cost to buy a new one.

Thanks again!

 

[bheron]

Joseph - just got back from HD and now I know what Nylon Lock Nuts are!!!

 

[Traff]

Ratcheting Rope Pulley at HD

Ratcheting Rope Pulley at HD

Hey Bheron,
I was at Home Depot today and saw the ratcheting rope pulley set up in the picture for $9.50 in the hardware dept over near the turnbuckles and pulleys.

 

[bheron]

Traff, thats amazing. While at HD today I checked (AGAIN) in that section and nothing. Its the only section I can think of in there that might have em. Its full of pulleys, ropes, and trailer accessories. I'll keep tryin!

 

[jwedehase]

Perhaps it's just a location thing, bheron. I'll trade you a ratcheting pulley for some Southdown .

 

[casethekid]

It's official...13.5 hours from start to finish. All of the 119 pages of the original thread and the 30 here. All I have to say is...

Your tank is terrible :lol:

Really, it truly is a work of art, a real slice of the ocean that most people only hope to recreate. I am truly inspired by the research, craftsmanship, and care you show the privledged creatures that enjoy a real paradise.

Thank you for sharing, and I may be in touch with you about "borrowing" some or most of the ideas you presented.

Amazing :eek1: :eek2:

 

[bulkhead]

Joeseph, anything new going on with the tank? I haven't kept up with the thread in awhile, brought it up to catch up and see that things have been silent awhile....

This thread has been a great inspiration to me and has helped me so much with my 100g setup. I'm now waiting to get started on our new house which will include an in-wall tank....

 

[weatherson]

YAWN... What's that? Someone say something? Oh... OK, I suppose it's time to provide some updates. First of all though, thanks Casethekid for your kind words. Sorry for the delay but I missed that one.

Bulkhead...
There have been changes and updates so I will give a brief as possible visual update. I'd been letting this thread sleep for a while but it's about time to wake her up and share some new stuff. I have you to "thank" for that. OK... here we go...

I'm still battling the AEFW's but have been keeping them in check to the point that they aren't causing serious, further damage to my corals. Basically, I've been doing FWE treatments at every water change (monthly) and do weekly blasting of the corals known to be tasty to them. As it turns out, my Heniochis and Blue Damsels love the flat worms once they are water-bourne. Unfortunately, they aren't interested in them while on the corals. Anyway, this process of treatment along with blasting the corals as well as scraping and removing any found eggs is, as mentioned, keeping them from doing so much damage as to kill my corals. I did also add to wrasses, a Christmas and Yellow Coris, in the hopes that they would help out in this battle. Unfortunately, I've yet to witness any direct coral pecking to suggest AEFW consumption. Nor do either go after any that are free-floating.

But... I am now rid of the Zoanthid nudibranchs! One down... one to go. This eradication took place shortly after the addition of these two fish so either one or the other or both can be attributed to this. Or... this, in addition to the FWE treatments as this has been said to affect these nudi's.

So... here's the new additions in all their glory...

Joseph.

 

[weatherson]

Beings these wrasses are known tank jumpers, I decided to place egg-crate over the three openings at the top of my tank. This, unfortunately, limits the amount of light passing through them so I needed a better solution. A friend had some nylon mesh material available so all I needed was to build a suitable frame to hold it in place over the tank. I decided to go with .25" steel rod that I would then have powder coated (HD paint) to protect them from rust. Here's a shot of the three frames after bending them to shape and welding the ends to create a continuous frame. This shows them after the powder coating process...

Here's one of the end units followed by the center unit after installing the mesh with plastic zip-ties...

And a shot of two, installed on the tank and keeping fish where they belong...

And finally, an animated GIF showing the light absorption of the new fish guards compared to egg-crate and no guards at all...

Joseph.