265 Gallon Mixed Reef

MH_Courtney

New member
Hi Everyone! I just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Courtney and I have been in this hobby for 2+ years and my fiance has been in the hobby for over 7 years. We have a 265 gallon mixed reef that is about 1 year old. It started with the contents of a 75 gallon and we have been slowly trying to fill in all the extra space. It is amazing how a coral that can look like a huge colony in a 75 can look like a frag in a 265! The tank was started with overdriven T-5 bulbs and a few months ago we converted one side to LEDs so we could compare the T-5s and the LEDs. We just finished converting the rest of the fixture and we are very excited about the LEDs.

Here is a little background information on our system. The display is a 265 gallon glass tank (7' x 2' x 31") and the sump is a 30 gallon glass tank. We run 2 MP40 vortechs on reef crest 100% as well as the return pump for flow. Lighting is 72 three watt LEDs, 36 Cree Royal Blues and 36 Rebel Luxeon Whites. The Blues have 40 degree optics and the Whites have 60 degree optics. They are driven by 6 dimmable Meanwell drivers and we have a potentiometer for each color to control them. We run a protein skimmer and filter sock for filtration and I do a 10 gallon daily water change with Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt. We do not use any reactors of any kind, we rely on the water changes and a very small amount of Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium and Tropic Marin Bio-Magnesium daily to maintain our parameters. That about sums up the equipment side of our system, we try to keep things simple and effective and have found these methods give excellent results.

The livestock in the tank is still a work in progress. Some of the fish we currently have are a Powder Blue Tang, Yellow Tang, Female Crosshatch Trigger, Copper banded Butterfly, Filefish, a mated pair of Yellow Assessors, a mated pair of Maroon Gold Stripe Clownfish and several others. We still have quite a fish wish list for the tank that we are slowly working on. Corals are mostly SPS and just to name a few: ORA Joe the Coral, ORA Frogskin, Nathan's Green Milliepora, Idaho Grape Monticap, Orange Setosa, Orange Digitata, ORA Green Digitata and many other SPS frags. The LPS we have are mostly different acan lords with a few chalices as well as a basketball size colony of Purple Tip Frogspawn. The only soft corals we have are zoanthids and palythoas some of which include Red People Eaters, Candy Apple Reds and Armor of Gods to name a few.

Some daily maintenance that I do on the tank includes the 10 gallon water change, dosing the Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium and Bio-Magnesium and feeding a variety of frozen foods to the fish and corals. The fish also receive dry pellets in an auto feeder twice a day. I change the filter sock every other day and clean the skimmer collection cup and test the water parameters once a week and clean the glass as needed.

I think that about sums up everything with the tank. We try to keep everything as simple as possible and have definitely seen some amazing growth. I am very excited to see in a year or so how much more mature it will look as everything grows and fills in more.

Here are a few pictures, the full tank shot is from May 2010 and many of the coral shots are from August 2010. These pictures are all with full T-5s on the tank. I will be posting more recent pictures soon so that everyone can see how it looks with the LEDs.

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AOGPaly08-26-10.jpg

BlueTort08-23-10.jpg

Bubble08-26-10.jpg

FruitLoopsAcan08-26-10.jpg

Joethecoral08-23-10-1.jpg

ORAGreenDigi08-31-10.jpg

Setosa08-31-10.jpg
 
I don’t think I ever explained the water change system on this tank. I have a 20 gallon high tank that is gravity fed through a solenoid to the sump of the 265. I have a heater and powerhead in the water change tank and I add salt to this tank every day after I do a water change. The water change has gotten a bit more complex since we added our frag system but I will talk more about that in another thread. I drain 10 gallons from the sump through a hose and then I flip a switch and 10 fresh gallons drains from the water change tank into the sump. The water change tank is automatically filled through a solenoid off the RO/DI unit and float switches. Having this automated system makes doing water changes a piece of cake and actually possible. I can't imagine how long it would take me to do a 10 gallon water change a day if I had to manually fill buckets.
 
So I haven't had time to take any new pictures but here are some old ones I was digging through today. A few are a little more recent but everything is still with the T-5s. I figure these should work as growth shots as well. I think the only more recent one I included is a purple/green chalice (supposed to be a watermelon but I don't have any lineage on it) and I included a growth shot with it. The first pic is from end of August and the other pic is from the middle of February.

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Yellow torch
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Copper banded butterfly
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Green Millie
GreenMilli5-3-10.jpg

Green Slimer and Xenia
GreenSlimer5-3-10.jpg

Hairy Mushroom
hairymushroom.jpg

Female Maroon Gold Strip Clown
MaroonClownfemale05-03-10.jpg

Midas Blenny
MidasBlenny9-10-10.jpg

Mixed Zoos
MixedZoas08-31-10.jpg
 
wheres the sand? git sum!
it would look at least 25 times better.
sand is integral to any reef for critters to live in and looks great!
but nice corals and crosshatch trigger. is that guy reefsafe?
i know blue throats and pink tails are usually reefsafe but hadnt heart of this species being reefsafe
 
wheres the sand? git sum!
it would look at least 25 times better.
sand is integral to any reef for critters to live in and looks great!
but nice corals and crosshatch trigger. is that guy reefsafe?
i know blue throats and pink tails are usually reefsafe but hadnt heart of this species being reefsafe

I prefer bare-bottom, I think there are more advantages than having a sand bed. I dont feel like a sand bed is useful unless you go with a deep sand bed and I feel like more often than not that is just asking for trouble. The fuge is bare-bottom as well and i dont have any problems, there are plenty of pods and worms everywhere and I feed heavily and nitrates are never over 0 or 1. I also dont have to worry about things rtn'ing because of sand sitting on them or them falling in the sand. Also no sand storms.

I wouldnt say the crosshatch is considered reef safe but neither is the butterfly really. If they pick a little I dont really mind, plus once the tank gets grown in a lot more we will be adding quite a few angels. The worse the triggers have done is crunch snails and the butterfly picks at my zoos every once in a while.
 
i love bare bottoms. but thats just cuz im a wrasse man ;P

haha just sayin itd look good with sand. no one would go to the beach if was just water and glass.
 
So I finally got a chance to take some pictures last night. I am stilling trying to figure the camera out so bear with me. I was finally starting to get decent pictures with the T-5s and now the LEDs are harder to get good pictures because there is definitely a lot more shadowing in the tank. I used the tripod for the first time last night and what a difference. I don't know how I ever got any decent pictures without it. A little bit harder to use the tripod for the fish but I was getting a much better ratio of good to bad pictures. I got 3 good pictures of the Powder Blue in one night where normally I am lucky to 1 good fish picture in about 5 nights worth.

Anyway on to the pictures. There is definitely a noticeable difference with the LEDs versus the T-5s when you look straight on at the tank. I am starting to get used to the black bars because of the braces but in pictures it looks terrible. I will say that up until a few days ago I was still doubting the LEDs. You know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The T-5s were working fine and we were getting good color and growth. However….since switching to full LEDs I am seeing even better polyp extension then I have ever seen before. Also several of my acans that were a little plain looking are starting to morph with some greens and yellows. Only time will tell for the long term but the results I am seeing already definitely has me convinced that it was a good switch not only for money and energy savings but for coral growth and color as well.

Powder Blue Tang
PowderBlue3-9-11contestpic.jpg


Midas Blenny in his hole
Blenny3-9-11.jpg


Blue Green Tort
This one doesn't appear to have grown a lot from the previous shot I have of it but I fragged off the larger right branch and I now have a frag almost the size of this colony in my frag tank.
BlueTort3-9-11.jpg


Chromis
chromis3-9-11.jpg


Frogspawn
frogspawnmacro3-9-11.jpg


Green Torch
greentorch3-9-11.jpg


Hairy Mushrooms
As you can see from further up there has been a lot of growth here
HairyMushroom3-9-11.jpg


ORA Joe the Coral
This has so much polyp extension you can barely see the skeleton, the difference in polyp extension in this picture compared to the previous one is insane.
joethecoral3-9-11.jpg


Orange Digitata
orangedigi3-9-11.jpg
 
Powder Blue Tang
powderblue13-9-11.jpg

powderblue3-9-11.jpg


RBTA and Clowns
Not sure if you can really appreciate the size of this RBTA but the hammer next to it is a 4 headed frag and the clowns are 2" and 5". This is the easier one to see but you will see in the full tank shot that there are 2 in the tank and the other one is about the same size but most of it is behind the rock.
RBTA3-9-11.jpg


Acan
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Full Tank Shot 3-9-11
Not quite head on, too much stuff in the way for the tripod but I will try not to be so lazy next time.
The colors are tad bit off in some of these, the color in the FTS are pretty accurate though.
fts3-9-11.jpg


Center
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Left Side
leftside3-9-11.jpg


Right Side
rightside3-9-11.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing! Tell me more about your LED setup. Is that a custom job? Have you noticed a change in the well-being of your reef since you changed to LED's?
 
Thanks for sharing! Tell me more about your LED setup. Is that a custom job? Have you noticed a change in the well-being of your reef since you changed to LED's?

The fixture is the same fixture that was over the tank when it had T-5s over it. We took down the fixture, gutted it and retro'ed it for the heatsinks. We took out the stock fans and added 4 new ones that are more powerful and much quieter. The tank is a little darker than I would like on the ends but that is because the fixture is only 6 feet and the tank is 7 feet. We just don't take our rock to the ends and it works fine but the darkness is more noticeable with the LEDs. I am definitely seeing much better polyp extension and we have always had good polyp extension to begin with (the pics of the ORA Joe the Coral are good examples). The only downside that I notice is the shadowing and the shimmer. I think that if the tank had metal halides on it before the switch I wouldnt have noticed a change but because it had T-5s there is a noticeable difference. I kinda feel like this is comparing apples to oranges though and isn't really fair to the LEDs. So far I would definitely recommend LEDs to everyone and we have switched everything we have to LEDs and don't plan on buying anything other than LEDs in the future.
 
Your other half is lucky to have someone to shre the hobby with! The tank looks great. Nice frag system too, looking forward to future updates.
 
Such a beautiful set up. I am a water change believer also. I also love LED. I'm on my second set in 10 yrs. Just picked up AI Sol Blues. My only observation is that the bare bottom is well .....just so bare. I know all the theories and have had the same DSB for all 10yrs and it enriches the whole look(imho). I can't imagine going bare......have you ever considered a SB?
 
Very interisting setup ypu have, I love it. I wish I had the space to have water change system like yours. Did you ever consider using a better quality salt so you can dose less like calcium and magnesium. I heard the Tropic Marin Bio Active salt good, and me started to use Red Sea Pro. Do you have any sump pics?
 
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