280G+ Starphire In-Wall Build by ReefArtist

[SVTour]

Thanks for the props...

My problem with the glass was not only the thickness, but the span. I would think you would be fine with 1/4"...I believe I would have. The 1/8" I used across the 90 gallon tank just causes the water to oscillate back and forth if the level goes down an inch. If it drops further than that, everything is fine…it’s just at 1”

I solved my problems by making an auto top off...but if I ever get around to redoing this, it will be 1/4" for sure.

BTW, if you're not quite sure of what I mean with the water oscillation, I could take a quick video of it for you. Just let me know...I'd hate to see you make the same mistake.

 

[ReefArtist]

SVTour - very good information, this is going to help me a lot. I could see the 1/8" going across the 90 possibly having problems. I will definitely go with at least 1/4 inch if not 3/8, I'll see what I find here locally.

How tall did you make your baffles if you don't mind me asking? I'm not sure at this point how high I'll have my water - I'll need to calculate this out, but I will have emergency overflow pipes just in case.

Thanks a lot for all the information and again - great web site.

 

[SVTour]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10960167#post10960167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
SVTour - very good information, this is going to help me a lot. I could see the 1/8" going across the 90 possibly having problems. I will definitely go with at least 1/4 inch if not 3/8, I'll see what I find here locally.

How tall did you make your baffles if you don't mind me asking? I'm not sure at this point how high I'll have my water - I'll need to calculate this out, but I will have emergency overflow pipes just in case.

Thanks a lot for all the information and again - great web site.

Thanks...

Each one is 16" high and I have about 1" under the center baffle. I'm sure you would be fine with 1/4...I don't think glass that thick bows much at 16 inches.

One other thing, since I didn't want my skimmer to sit that deep in the tank, I build a platform for it that is about 5 inches tall. I'm not sure if your skimmer sits in the sump...but it's something to think about if it does.

 

[ReefArtist]

No my skimmer is external and is the Reeflo, I can't wait to get it up and runnng. Thanks for all the information, I think next week I'll start looking for the glass. We have a few glass stores in the area so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[ReefArtist]

My shoulder is getting a little better so I was able to get a little work finished on the build finally. Someone asked about my borders of the fish room. The baseboards are a composite material that will not rot and I caulked the top and bottom of the baseboards. So for the most part the room at least at ground level is completely sealed. I'm going to drill a hole through the wall later for drainage.

Here's some photos to show the updates that have been accomplished - we all love photos!

Chopped up some 2x4's for some of the tank stands. I must say the local hardware stores have some really bad wood. I think they store their wood outside as most is warped or cracked. I made due with what they had.

Some of the frames I put together using the Kreg system - I really do like this tool.

Just to let everyone know - you don't have to use their expensive screws !

We brought everything in for a test fit - yes lots of problems and redoing was involved. I'm still not convinced everything is going to fit properly. Yes, my buddy George had to get in on the act.

Here's one of the easy stands that was put together the old way - straight drilling into the wood. Still works!

Lets not forget the Infinity Tank that I had won - didn't have to do a thing the this stand !

This is the lighting system that will be placed over the infinity tank - it is very slick and I'm very happy with the purchase. All T5's and the tank will have mostly softies/LPS corals. Not sure about the fish as the tank is only about 14" tall and the water flows over - don't want any jumpers in this one!

Need some suggestions on the livestock for the Infinity - please!

 

[ReefArtist]

I'm having a space problem with my pumps so I'm seeking some advice. Below I've posted some photo (worth a thousand words) of my space problem. I have two barracuda pumps for my return but my concern is the space between the sump and the frame of my refugium.

Does anyone have the dimension of a True Single Union Ball Valves? I'm going to purchase them from Savko and I'm not sure if the dimensions are the same as HD.

This is where I'm think of putting the Skimmer. I know it's high but I can reach the cup to clean it and it's out of the way. Will it function being that high? It's going to be feed off a tee from one of the Barracudas that will be located below it.

Here is a measurement - from the sumps frame to the pump - very tight, but will it fit?

It's about 5-3/4 from the frame but I could give it another half inch or so with the sump moved down as far as possible.

 

[ReefArtist]

Well I'm thinking it's going to fit so this week end I'm going to start drill all the tanks. This is the placement I had from the start and even though it makes it a little tight at one end, it give me table space at the other end.

 

[SVTour]

It's hard to say if it will fit...all you can do is try. Hopefully you will be able to fit a union on there for service on the pump.

BTW, that small viewing tank looks like it will be pretty sweet!

 

[ReefArtist]

Hi Joey,
Thanks for you comments. The small tank I'm thinking a nice Grasses tank, below that (Haven't moved it in yet) will be a 75g refugium. It will be really nice to see in my refugium and put some cool critters that I can't have in my main display.

Yes I will definitely have a union, I'd like to put a true single union ball valve if it will fit. It's just I need to mail order them and I wanted to get all my tanks drilled this weekend.

Now that I really think about it, I really don't need a ball valve if at the sump I can cap it off when I have an emergency. Mmmm, I was going with 2" single union ball valves before the pump and after the pump - I would still need the one after and at 28$ each, now I'm not sure if it is really necessary. You should never restrict the inlet so the only time I would use the ball value would be for maintenance or emergency. I could just use a threaded cap with a nipple and insert that into my bulkhead. What are the toughts on something like that?

 

[SVTour]

So you would put the threaded cap on whenever you need to do maintenance on the pump?

Wouldn't be the easiest way to go about it...but I guess it would work if you're really that tight on space. You might be the pioneer on this one :lol:

 

[ReefArtist]

Maybe I'm missing something but - this is my step through:

Well, the pump would be off and I would have a ball valve with union on the output side. I'd unplug the pump, turn the ball on the output side to stop the back flow, then insert the nipple/cap or a threaded plug. Using the unions - remove the pump. I don't see anything wrong with that and this way I couldn't reduce the flow on the input even if I wanted - which would be good.

We'll see if we hear from anyone else on this but I really don't see a problem - except me looking like a cheapo and I'll take that.

 

[tbone28]

I, too, had space issues. Although I didn't want to, I ended up plumbing my return pump with a 90.

Try to go with slip connectors if you can. That'll save you some room as well.

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/terrylau828/DSCN2882.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

 

[ReefArtist]

I could do the 90 - that is another option. Did you think about doing the cap/plug at all. I know it's kind of "Not" standard plumbing. I actually would get better flow - no ball valve to slow the water.

BTW - What is the usage of the double union ball valve? I've seen it but for the life of me have not figured when it would be used. Is it to clean the ball valve (I know they do get clogged)? I could see if you had water coming from both directions without the pump between - another plumbing part to investigate.

Again - thank you for your input - I like looking at all angles for a solution.

 

[tbone28]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11007419#post11007419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
I could do the 90 - that is another option. Did you think about doing the cap/plug at all. I know it's kind of "Not" standard plumbing. I actually would get better flow - no ball valve to slow the water.

BTW - What is the usage of the double union ball valve? I've seen it but for the life of me have not figured when it would be used. Is it to clean the ball valve (I know they do get clogged)? I could see if you had water coming from both directions without the pump between - another plumbing part to investigate.

Again - thank you for your input - I like looking at all angles for a solution.

Didn't think about the plug, but too much work for me. I wasn't concerned about minimizing the flow as it's just a sump return for me. The double valve lets me service whichever is needed - the pump or the plumbing on either side of the valve.

 

[mflamb]

Carol, I plumbed my sump return with a 90 and both of my skimmer pumps recieve water from the sump through 90s.

 

[ReefArtist]

Mike - you sure did, I might need to go over to your house and draw everything up for ya (Poster) - Then I'd know everything about plumbing .

 

[mflamb]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11009588#post11009588 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
Mike - you sure did, I might need to go over to your house and draw everything up for ya (Poster) - Then I'd know everything about plumbing .

That last part is funny. If you had watched me plumb, you would sell the video to the comedy channel!!!

 

[ReefArtist]

I couldn't imagine getting in the back of your tank :eek1: I do know you have some wall space between - but still!

Hey, I noticed you don't have ball valves on any of your pumps! I know you have the values above but - that's going to be a lot of water coming out when undue the unions :sad1:. I'm sure you've wooked that out but this is exactly what I was wondering about. Now you can just plug them . They also have a tool called an expension plug - it's hard rubber with a wing nut - fits lots of different size pipes - that is also an option that I'm looking at. I'm sure the wing nut isn't SS so unless I can find on that is I'll stay away from that.

 

[ReefArtist]

Today I'm going to get a few fittings and see which configuration will fit the best. Also I hope to get some of my tanks drilled. My sump which is a 90g tank is home for my freshwater guys - Their new home will cycle this week. I so hope to get it emptied next weekend. Then all the plumbing can be added.

I did find this interesting when doing my research - "While this fitting has a union, it is not designed to seal/hold water when the union is removed. The union is primarily for maintenance of the ball valve. This is a statement from Spears about their Single Union Ball Valve - thought that was very interesting. I guess they're covering their bases (assssss)!

 

[mflamb]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11012265#post11012265 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
I couldn't imagine getting in the back of your tank :eek1: I do know you have some wall space between - but still!

Hey, I noticed you don't have ball valves on any of your pumps! I know you have the values above but - that's going to be a lot of water coming out when undue the unions :sad1:. I'm sure you've wooked that out but this is exactly what I was wondering about. Now you can just plug them . They also have a tool called an expension plug - it's hard rubber with a wing nut - fits lots of different size pipes - that is also an option that I'm looking at. I'm sure the wing nut isn't SS so unless I can find on that is I'll stay away from that.

The two closed loop Darts have ball valves on the back of the tank. When I remove those pumps, I disconnect the union from the valve and lower the flex hose into a small bucket. Then I disconnect the union where the closed loop returns to the tank under the box. No water loss and it takes about 2 minutes to get the pump out. To remove the sump return pump, I screw a plug into the bulkhead inside the sump, disconnnect the flex hose from the tank under the middle box, drain that hose into a small tupperware container, place a towel under the pump and remove it. A little more than a cup of water comes out of the pump. Same technique for the two skimmer pumps. When I was freshwater testing, I removed each of these individually with the tank and sump full to verify their serviceability. There is 15 inches between the stand and the wall. All the pumps are in the stand behind the sump.
Definitely not as good as having a fish room, but it makes things serviceable.