2gal Desk pico - pump rate

Chunks

New member
granted this drawing is far from "to scale," but I need some opinions on a GPH rating. I need to move the water up a 3 foot section of hose (at most), from a fuge set inside/under the desk, and have it still provide a good amount of water movement for the pico. Ive already got an overflow/underflow system in mind, and the fuge will hold the heater, filter, extra rock, etc.

tell me what you think, and any help in terms of GPH will be appreciated. I will keep you guys updated as this project progresses (I didnt want to post in Nano DIY because i havent started)
 
Maybe it would help if I offered a bit more information. I was looking at a submersible pump that could range from 400-600gph, depending on the model. Would this be enough to push the water up a Ã"šÃ‚¾-1in tube for about 2-3feet in distance? Too much power? The inflow line will be hidden with LR, but it will also provide much of the water circulation for the 2gal. The return line will also be powered by a pump of the same GPH rating, so there isnt too much strain on one pump.
 
I would just have your overflow gravity fed, having a duel pump system is asking for trouble IMO. If one pump fails for any reason the other either pumps water all over the floor or burns up with the other. With a gravity fed 1 pump system the only thing you have to worry about is adjusting your overflow level so that if the pump fails the water coming from the tank will be less than the amount of space left in the sump.

my 2.5 is on the same concept, overflow and pump back up but its a very small distance, less than a foot. you can take a look at it here:

http://65.190.199.12/nano.htm
 
What pump are you using? The pump im looking now at has a max head length of about 3' and is rated at about 150gph. What im wondering is if the max length means anything longer will slow the water movement under 150gph, or if anything longer than 3 feet will stop the pump from moving any water at all. :confused:

if the pump is no longer moving water after a distance of 3' then ill have to get one with a greater pgh rating. If the pump is just moving less water, im fine.

Ive done some slight redesigning with what youve mentioned in mind, thanks for the advice!
 
Max head is where the water stops flowing. Below that the water flow is reduced. The rating of the pump is at zero head. Just oversize the pump and put a valve at the discharge to slow the flow to what you want it to be.
Ditto on the two pump system. You'll figure out it won't work the moment you start it up because it'll be a PITA the balance, if you even can. From your drawing, if the power shuts off, the entire tank will drain. Real bummer.
 
Or you could just get a pump that you know is too much and then using a T with a valve divert some water back to the 1st chamber of your filter. Then you have the ability to adjust the flow to get just the amount you need in the display tank without risking the pumps integrity... (The T allows the pump to work normally as too much restriction can be bad)
 
To answer the question on what pump im using, its actually a Top Fin pond pump (i think smallest they had) from Petsmart. I used it cause it fit perfectly in the place I wanted. I just adjusted the flow rate with a ball valve and it works fine.
 
ok, here is a new attempt. The hoses can be redirected later, i drew it this way to make it a bit easier to look at. To answer the concern about power loss and tank draining ive pushed the inflow port a bit higher, and ill be setting up a one-way valve on the in line. Ill probably just end up using a ball valve to control the flow rate.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/132433pic8.GIF


tell me what you think, and thanks in advance
 
I'm using a Maxijet 1200 at 4" of head and three elbows with a hydor and I'm probably getting 1/3 of the rated 300 gph flow.

With a 2 gallon I think that would be adequate flow.
 
I apologize for repeating myself, but remember that the tank will drain down to the top of the return line when power is cut to the pump.
A ball valve will work to throttle the pump. It won't damage the pump any more than elbows, friction or height on the pump.
 
Thats ok, youre just trying to help :thumbsup: I realize that the tank will drain to the inflow port, thats why im installing a plastic one way valve, or check valve...whatever you want to call it. I suppose it would be just as easy to install the return port at the top of the tank, but i wanted to get the best flow. If i put it in the middle of the tank and used one of those FLO rotating deflectors I figured it would have the best flow.
 
There are two kinds of check valves, the kind that have failed and the kind that haven't failed YET.

The hydor aimed down from the top of the tank is a much lower risk option.


jmo
 
Whew. I'm glad someone else said that. I couldn't bring myself to say one more negative thing.
 
Nah, any advice is good advice! I can deal with the negative aspects of any half baked idea i might come up with ;), so thanks for the heads up.

Ill keep you guys informed about this as it progresses. Ive had my fair share of experience with nanos, but this will be the first DIY build attempt, so im sure ill run into problems.
 
Depending on dimensions and how you plan to build it 1/4" would be required and I'd opt for 3/8" just because it's not the much more and is easier to weld...
 
Its gonna be a 12x12x12 cube.

I dont have much experience with welding acrylic, do you have any advice or prefered welding products?

Unless there is an issue with it, Im gonna use weld-on #4 plexiglass glue. Would that create enough of a seal, or should i put a bead of aquarium silicone along the joints just in case?
 
Save your silicone. It will not work on acrylic. A good bond with weldon is as strong as you need.
 
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