300dd Pre-Build Thread (with WTB's)

jeremyjoslin

New member
Why does it seem like everything changes when you go to a "big" tank? I've been in the hobby for almost 6 years, and I'm finding I'm pretty naive when it comes to a lot of this stuff. The back story on this build is that I had a breakout of marine ich about 5 months ago and half my livestock died. I gave away the other half to good homes to be nursed to health so my rock could "lie fallow" for 72 days (done). I've kept my 100 gallon (+40g long) in the basement circulating live rock, an anemone, and a few inverts. The recent flooding put 3 feet of water in my basement, killing off my large Iwaki, but keeping my LR culture untouched. We're moving in 2 weeks.

My plan for the new house is a 300g deep dimension mixed reef tank in the living room, a FOWLR predator tank in my office, and an invert/anemone tank in the basement next to the large sump/refugium. Here are some of my thoughts, and what I'm in the market to buy used. I'd love feedback on any point of information below:

1.) 300DD. I'd go with stock Marineland, but want to customize my overflow to allow for a beanie/herbie or such (1 full siphon, 1 slow overflow, 1 emergency siphon). I also want to do a custom stand- I couldn't sleep at night knowing that beast is sitting on 1x4 pine.

2.) Basement sump. Utilizing 100g rubbermaid stock tank. Doing this for 2 years so no big difference.

3.) Return pump. ANy suggestions? Will need to push up 12 ft of vertical head, plus run a manifold that supplies 2 other tanks, and runs skimmer. My Iwaki 70RLT seemed to do this with room to spare. Since that pump is toast, I need a new one (WTB). I'm starting to wonder if I should run 2 pumps (one to DT, and the other to work the other lines). I need suggestions on best pumps for this job. I recognize brands, but don't have much experience with any but the Iwaki.

4.) Skimmer. Have a Bermuda 5 which might start to run short when I tally up 600g+ system.... and I just bought it too ;(

5.) Lighting. Been seriously considering the AI Sol LED units. 6 blue modules is going to cost me enough to bring tears to my eyes, but I can't come up with a configuration where 4 modules will give the right spread... or can it be done with 70 degree optics arranged like | | | | along the 6ft length? Or is there another brand that people are flocking to that is a better consideration?

6.) Mixed reef. Livestock list will be a separate thread.

7.) water flow. I don't want to do a CL system. Thinking some Ecotech's (MP40 or MP60) and a properly designed return manifold should be enough to keep me away from what seems like another way to lose sleep every night (maintaining a CL system with extra holes in your tank everywhere).

8.) stand and canopy. Will probably need to build (translated as "need to hire someone to build for me").

What did I miss and what else do I need to think about????
 
Very nice love to follow this build..

On my 200dd two mp40's were more than I needed..Wish I would have gone with one MP60..

Return pump..You will need the largest one you are willing to buy and hook up lol..
 
Jeremy, I think you have to consider Reeflo/ Sequence pumps. Built for high head pressures and low energy consumption. Their website will provide appropriate head loss curves.

I got my tank through ABC Reefs. Had it pulled off of the production line pre-drilled/pre-overflowed. Lots of guys on here proficient with acrylic. The Buffalo boys built mine. Installation by yours truly.

Also, being an ABC fan-boy, Dave and wrasseman built my stand. Quality work for sure. Are you thinking in-wall? Stand concealed?

I also vote for MP60s. Love spending other people's money!

I'm staying tuned on this one......should be good!
 
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Very nice love to follow this build..

On my 200dd two mp40's were more than I needed..Wish I would have gone with one MP60..

Return pump..You will need the largest one you are willing to buy and hook up lol..

So for a 300dd, what would you recommend? I've never owned one of these pumps. And don't they work better in pairs to provide realistic waves/current?
 
I got my tank through ABC Reefs. Had it pulled off of the production line pre-drilled/pre-overflowed. Lots of guys on here proficient with acrylic. The Buffalo boys built mine. Installation by yours truly.

Would love to hear the details and/or plans and pictures for this. Were they in your build thread? Did I miss that part?
 
Sounds like a very cool build and I plan on subscribing to it. Have you thought about a topoff system? I can imagine it would take a fairly good sized system to top off that system in the summer months with evaporation from fan cooling. Or are you planning on running a cooler? How big will the FOWLR predator tank and the invert/anemone tank be?
 
Sounds like a very cool build and I plan on subscribing to it. Have you thought about a topoff system? I can imagine it would take a fairly good sized system to top off that system in the summer months with evaporation from fan cooling. Or are you planning on running a cooler? How big will the FOWLR predator tank and the invert/anemone tank be?

I'll use the same RO top-off system I use now which is a combination of RO/DI controlled with solenoid activated by redundant float valve apparatus fail-safe with timer allowing for only XX minutes of water per day.

With a basement sump, I've never considered a cooler, even in the summer. Plus LED's will reduce heat considerably.

I have a 125g (72") tank from my last build which I'll use for my office FOWLR. The invert tank will be a 30" tall 30g tank I got from the in-laws storage that I'll drill and stack LR to the top to create the look of the face of a reef.
 
Using the two mp40's I was never able to get a good wave in the tank..Some of it I think was the dimensions of the 200dd and another big part was the rock formation I stacked..It was more of a island stack in the center of the tank..

So what I did,I got rid of one mp40(clear up much room in the budget)In its place I put a large Koralia and moved it close to the back on the left side of the tank,I kept my mp40 on the right side close to the front and set it full speed long pulse..This created a really nice current moving around the rock stack from the sand to the surface and the pulse broke it up just enough for my lps to like it :)..

Maybe others can give you other options :) here is a link to my build thread

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2022323
 
Would love to hear the details and/or plans and pictures for this. Were they in your build thread? Did I miss that part?

Yeah, detailed in my build. The short of it, I hate the look of corner overflows and loss of viewing through the side panels. The appeal, in part, of DD tanks is the 3 foot side panel. Why lose that viewing area if you can help it.

I had ABC investigate, and they indeed procured an indrilled tank for me. I went on URS and there were several people versed in working with acrylic. After reading up on Beananimal style overflows, I determined the dimensions and commissioned the construction of my overflow box.

Again, well chronicled in first few pages of my build.
 
Yeah, detailed in my build. The short of it, I hate the look of corner overflows and loss of viewing through the side panels. The appeal, in part, of DD tanks is the 3 foot side panel. Why lose that viewing area if you can help it.

I had ABC investigate, and they indeed procured an indrilled tank for me. I went on URS and there were several people versed in working with acrylic. After reading up on Beananimal style overflows, I determined the dimensions and commissioned the construction of my overflow box.

Again, well chronicled in first few pages of my build.

Just went through your build thread again. Should have done that when I thought of it....

How did you decide the width of your overflow? Wouldn't wider be better (more skimming power)? Any design considerations you'd change after running it for awhile now?
 
9.) Aquascaping. Planning to keep my 150-200 lbs of current LR in the sump and FOWLR tank. When I get the new tank installed, I'll buy marco or some other reef-freindly dry rock, scape it into 3 small islands in the DT, and let the current LR seed it. I would like to remember to pre-drill holes in the new rock scape for plugging in coral frags without having to do any semi-permanent mounting using putties, epoxies, or glues (which frequently ended in cursing and water-logged hands.
 
9.) Aquascaping. Planning to keep my 150-200 lbs of current LR in the sump and FOWLR tank. When I get the new tank installed, I'll buy marco or some other reef-freindly dry rock, scape it into 3 small islands in the DT, and let the current LR seed it. I would like to remember to pre-drill holes in the new rock scape for plugging in coral frags without having to do any semi-permanent mounting using putties, epoxies, or glues (which frequently ended in cursing and water-logged hands.
 
Following along. For my 125g DT, (300g total), I had a similar set up where the main tank was on the first floor and everything else was in the basement. I used a blue line hd70 pump from Champion lighting. Great pump, used for high head height. They have larger versions, but mine ran about 1300gph up 15ft.
 
As far as pumps I'm partial to dual return pumps in case on fails. anytime you run with a single large pump you are at risk of a major single point of failure. If you are building new, go with dual pumps. also I've been told this uses less electricity than one large pump.

say you are putting the 300 upstairs along with a FOWLR with of say 120 gallon you are at 420 gallons. 5x turnover is 2100 GPH.

To get this out of a pump AFTER losses from plumbing you need a fairly large pump.

I'd be partial to reeflo barracuda (comes with the hammerhead upgrade if you need more flow) or a dolphin (if you go with these make sure to get the abrasive seal not the standard)

The issue I have is with the flow charts from vendors - some are spot on, others I'm not sure how they got those numbers.

plumbing - please run 1.5" supply line from the basement up to minimize loss from the plumbing & use gate valves from BRS (economy is fine) instead of ball valves

skimmer - yeah, the bermuda 5 isn't going to cut it. look at the XP series Super Reef Octopus with the bubble blaster pumps, you are more than welcome to check out my 3000 external anytime

waterflow - I'm on the fence about closed loops. To some extent I feel that the tunze and vortechs have reduced the appeal of a CL system, in other regards they offer some great water movement, granted you are stuck with it once you drill :)
 
Following along. For my 125g DT, (300g total), I had a similar set up where the main tank was on the first floor and everything else was in the basement. I used a blue line hd70 pump from Champion lighting. Great pump, used for high head height. They have larger versions, but mine ran about 1300gph up 15ft.

Sounds similar to my last setup. For this next one, looks like I'm going to need the services of a Reeflo Manta Ray 5200gph. I'm loosely aiming for 2000gph through the tank. This pump will easily do that at 15ft head with much to spare on skimmer and other tanks. Any advice on a goal of turn-over for this tank besides my guess of 2000gph? I figure a lot of flow will come from the Vortechs anyway. The wattage on these pumps with these numbers is insane. Glad I'm going for the LED's.
 
Pascal, looks like I was posting as you were. I'm intrigued by your thoughts of a dual return, and have had concerns of pump failure while running just the single Iwaki on my last system. Brandon knows something about pump failures, so I hear.

I haven't been following Reeflo. Have they done away with the standard barracuda and gone with hybrid pumps only? They seem kinda overpriced now, no?

As for plumbing, I did 1.5 on my last setup and will do so again. Thanks for the confirmation. I've seen your commentary on other threads regarding this size line. I'm officially sick of ball valves, so I'm ready to jump in on gate valves. The true union ball valves are tempting though (used some cheap ones on my last system bought from Lowes and absolutely HATE them). Schedule 80 ones seem to be much more reliable. You're saying go true union and then gate valve as separate pieces?

Definitely take you up on the tour of the skimmer.
 
The mantaray gold is a lot of water. When you get into this amount of plumbing I would call reeflo and chat with them about it. I spoke with someone there a while back and they were great. same goes for dolphin. I would touch base with both of them on the phone.

The dual pump is a fear of mine - lets say my reeflo in the basement bites it. I would have to splice the plumbing under my 120, put in a sump with a mag12 (which I fortunately have), and a mag 9.5 for the two frag tanks in the basement which would be new plumbing. seems easier to be able to take a pump out and run on one for a while :)

My sump layout doesn't accommodate two pumps so i will be ordering a replacement for my wahoo (probably the barracude/hammerhead) and keep the wahoo as a backup.

then there is that little thing called cleaning the pump which no one does...

for the plumbing ball valves seize up. I will say my 1 1/2" true union has been good. doing it again i would put in a gate valve and a regular union. watch the unions, some of them are quite restrictive.

for a skimmer I have become a big fan of external - no worries on the sump level. you can use the return pump or a dedicated pump. some folks argue that using the return pump isn't as effective, not sure I buy that. I run a dedicated pump, partially because my wahoo is already struggling.

sent a pm with my number.
 
Just went through your build thread again. Should have done that when I thought of it....

How did you decide the width of your overflow? Wouldn't wider be better (more skimming power)? Any design considerations you'd change after running it for awhile now?

I based it off of the size of the bulkheads I would be using for the chosen plumbing bore. Also had to take into account the safe distance between them for drilling. The profile of the in box fittings provided the other dimensions as well as a little fudging of the numbers to allow for working in the box itself.

Some of people prefer a coast to coast back wall box. I wanted to stay lower profile AND my plumbing design forces water back towards the box. The MP40s take care of breaking up surface tension.
 
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