3130/2 and sps keeping

[THEmarineman]

Hello
I wonder…
Will my 3130/2 skimmer on my 70 g system
(With some 4 tangs + 2 pigmy angel fish +2 percula + 1 fire goby + 2 chromis
And some LPS corals and Anemone)

Can handle SPS corals? Or should I look for a stronger model?

thanks
:rollface:

 

[rvitko]

It should work but the color of more difficult acros may fade a bit from higher nutrient levels. Running some phosphate remover and regular water changes could compensate for the skimmer being less agressive.

 

[THEmarineman]

Roger

Except for the plankton safe principle is there any more benefits and advantages for the less aggressive skimming?


Thanks

 

[rvitko]

No, the design was a holdover from when soft corals where the main stay and plankton safe skimming was a big asset.

 

[THEmarineman]

So I guess its time to say goodbye
Shame I went all that trouble to find one in a good condition
because of the plankton safe ability. On the other hand a don’t want to start a weekly water change regime and use all that chemical stuff.

is a 9005 a good alternative ?

 

[rvitko]

The 9005 is pretty comparable, the 9010 is about 50% stronger. The 3130/2 is a good skimmer but for SPS it may not keep peak coloration, you can modify it to be very similar in performance to a 9010. I wouldn't give up on it, the most you need to do is run some carbon/ phosphate remover and do small water changes monthly which is really good practice anyway. I was just trying to explain why the design changed and what the differences were. I used the 3130/2 for many years and was always happy with it but frankly, you will not keep a blue acro blue with it alone. You can do well with green and purple tipped acros and most montis but the real challenging brilliant colored acros need pristine nutrient free water to show those colors.

 

[THEmarineman]

Roger,
Regarding your answer i have some questions:

1. How can one modified a 3130 to work as 9010?
2. Do you run carbon all the time? i use carbon of Kent marine for 3 day per month?
3. What kind of PO4 remover do you use and how often do you change it?

Thank you

 

[THEmarineman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10723715#post10723715 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by THEmarineman
Roger,
Regarding your answer i have some questions:

1. How can one modified a 3130 to work as 9010?
2. Do you run carbon all the time? i use carbon of Kent marine for 3 day per month?
3. What kind of PO4 remover do you use and how often do you change it?

Thank you

 

[shawnz28]

As for questions 2 and 3, and what I do if you are looking for opinions. Personally I run carbon all the time and change it maybe every 3 weeks or so, have been doing it that way as long as I can remember and have never witnessed any negative results, though does not mean it to be the "right" way. And for the PO4 remover just about any of the GFO type work well.... at the moment I have been using Warners Phosar HC on my tank, but Phosban, Rowa and Phoslock work well too. With these types basically you know to change it by testing your water and your PO4 level is rising is a simple way, as unlike the aluminum based they do not leech PO4 back to the tank.

I will leave the skimmer question for Roger when he returns from the weekend, or maybe someone else on here has an answer

 

[rvitko]

I run carbon and phosphate remover continuously. I personally use Tunze Silphos which is similar to the medias that Shawnz posted about but a coarser grain, slower acting type. I use it in combination with carbon and I use very little carbon, just about 4 tablespoons. I change the carbon every two weeks and the phosphate remover monthly.

To modify the skimmer you have to just drill a hole in the front so the pump takes in fresh water from the sump rather than recirculating it. You will just drill a hole right infront of the pump intake and run a coupler and intake screen for a tunze pump directly to the pump inlet.

You could also buy a new body and sump kit (cost about $150) and turn it into a 9010.

 

[THEmarineman]

Hi roger
You got me all excited….with the 3130 upgrade.
I did not understand though how I should do it.
I have few questions if it ok with you.

1) What size of hole should I drill?
2) Is there any specific location for drilling?
3) I didn’t understand that part: “You will just drill a hole right in front of the pump intake and run a coupler and intake screen for a tunze pump directly to the pump inlet.

Do you have any drawing/ sketch of the process?

Last but not least …
If I order a 9010 body and sump kit what part do I have to take from the 3130 for the conversion?

Thank for the help and patience
Best Regards,

 

[THEmarineman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10733697#post10733697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shawnz28
As for questions 2 and 3, and what I do if you are looking for opinions. Personally I run carbon all the time and change it maybe every 3 weeks or so, have been doing it that way as long as I can remember and have never witnessed any negative results, though does not mean it to be the "right" way. And for the PO4 remover just about any of the GFO type work well.... at the moment I have been using Warners Phosar HC on my tank, but Phosban, Rowa and Phoslock work well too. With these types basically you know to change it by testing your water and your PO4 level is rising is a simple way, as unlike the aluminum based they do not leech PO4 back to the tank.

I will leave the skimmer question for Roger when he returns from the weekend, or maybe someone else on here has an answer

shawnz28
thank you!

 

[rvitko]

To convert to a 9010 you keep the cup and pump.

The part of the pump where the water is sucked in needs to be plumbed to suck in water from outside the skimmer. You drill a roughly 1" hole right in front of where the pump is situated in the skimmer. Another guy did this here and had pics but I have never done it before. It will give you a skimmer that is roughly a 9010.