40g SPS

No problem!


So your shrimp survived? Do you think that the amount you used way too weak? I don't mind all my pods dying. I have so many that it would be nice to be able to control the kinds that I have. I have these huge ones with black lines running down their backs that I don't really care for. I'll probably order a bag of pods to seed my tank once the treatment is done. Thanks for sharing your experience with it.

I used the dosage according to what everyone uses...in fact I overdosed slightly. My shrimp was stunned...like he was drunk etc...but recovered.

From my university days; toxicity of a particular chemical or agent is dependent on the amount of substance and the mass/size of an animal...hence my understanding is that whilst the concentration of Milbemycin (the active ingredient which kills Redbugs) may be a lethal dose for 100% of the redbugs in relation to their size, a higher concentration will likely be required to kill an organism of a larger size. - A bit like a certain concentration of a substance will kill a mouse, but will require a much larger concentration to kill an average human being (note that thats a crude way of putting it, but gets the message across).

I recall others who used Interceptor mention that shrimps were either:
killed right away, or died a few days later or their shrimps survived.

I have a pretty decent sized fire/blood shrimp. Maybe the standard cleaner shrimps are more susceptible to dying.
 
Your tank is the inspiration for my current build!
Would you mind sharing your temperature control codes for the Apex? Heater and chiller/fan.
Thanks
 
Your tank is the inspiration for my current build!
Would you mind sharing your temperature control codes for the Apex? Heater and chiller/fan.
Thanks

Thanks man. Let me know if you have any other questions.

heater code is:
Fallback OFF
If Temp < 77.5 Then ON
If Temp > 78.0 Then OFF

fan code is:
Fallback OFF
If Temp > 79.5 Then ON
If Temp < 78.5 Then OFF
 
I used the dosage according to what everyone uses...in fact I overdosed slightly. My shrimp was stunned...like he was drunk etc...but recovered.

From my university days; toxicity of a particular chemical or agent is dependent on the amount of substance and the mass/size of an animal...hence my understanding is that whilst the concentration of Milbemycin (the active ingredient which kills Redbugs) may be a lethal dose for 100% of the redbugs in relation to their size, a higher concentration will likely be required to kill an organism of a larger size. - A bit like a certain concentration of a substance will kill a mouse, but will require a much larger concentration to kill an average human being (note that thats a crude way of putting it, but gets the message across).

I recall others who used Interceptor mention that shrimps were either:
killed right away, or died a few days later or their shrimps survived.

I have a pretty decent sized fire/blood shrimp. Maybe the standard cleaner shrimps are more susceptible to dying.
Yeah, that makes sense. I guess I just wasn't sure if the dosage that were commonly give our tanks for the RB is enough toxicity for them or if it is higher than what they need and will affect other things.
 
Thanks man. Let me know if you have any other questions.

heater code is:
Fallback OFF
If Temp < 77.5 Then ON
If Temp > 78.0 Then OFF

fan code is:
Fallback OFF
If Temp > 79.5 Then ON
If Temp < 78.5 Then OFF

Thanks!
If it is not asking too much would you mind sharing your current feeding, dosing and maintenance schedule? Are you using Zeo ATM?
-Tony
 
I feed a half cube of frozen mysis/brine/rod's food in the AM and have my apex AFS feed pellets in the PM as well as nori whenever I remember.

Dosing is 35ml Ca and 30ml Alk of B-Ionic on BRS dosers throughout the day.

I replace GAC in a chem bag once everyone 2-3 weeks, WC every two weeks 5g NSW, 2tbs replaced monthly in TLF phosban reactor

No longer using zeovit. I haven't in about a year.
 
I feed a half cube of frozen mysis/brine/rod's food in the AM and have my apex AFS feed pellets in the PM as well as nori whenever I remember.

Dosing is 35ml Ca and 30ml Alk of B-Ionic on BRS dosers throughout the day.

I replace GAC in a chem bag once everyone 2-3 weeks, WC every two weeks 5g NSW, 2tbs replaced monthly in TLF phosban reactor

No longer using zeovit. I haven't in about a year.

Thanks again... I was under the impression that if you dose different amounts of 2 part it would go out of balance. I noticed that my alk raises .1 daily while my calcium stays stable. Maybe I should start doing the same as you.
 
Thanks again... I was under the impression that if you dose different amounts of 2 part it would go out of balance. I noticed that my alk raises .1 daily while my calcium stays stable. Maybe I should start doing the same as you.

I dose whatever I need to to maintain Ca around 420 and dkh around 8.5. My tank tends to consume Ca much more dkh for some reason.
 
My apex is coming in the mail tomorrow. I m going to figure out my alk intake, and make the necessary change. What are your 2 part codes?
Sorry I ask too many questions.
 
Yes , but I have a sicce syncra 3.0 to replace it with should it ever fail. I am just too lazy to switch out the pumps because I need to change the plumbing slightly.

Thanks. I got a mag 7 today because my deep blue was not restarting in water. I also finished setting up all my apex codes. I plan on dosing alk when lights are out and Ca during the day... Do you do that or dose 24h?
If I dont get a really noticable PH stability I will go back to dosing every hour of the day.
 
I'm getting around 220-260 PAR on the sand from my 6x24 sunpower with it hanging 8'' above the water line on my 16'' tall tank. Does that seem right? I have used two different apogee meters to test it. I read most people get around 300 in a similar situation to mine with their fixtures. I am running x3 C+ and x3 B+. Should I trust the PAR meters?
 
I'm getting around 220-260 PAR on the sand from my 6x24 sunpower with it hanging 8'' above the water line on my 16'' tall tank. Does that seem right? I have used two different apogee meters to test it. I read most people get around 300 in a similar situation to mine with their fixtures. I am running x3 C+ and x3 B+. Should I trust the PAR meters?

For the 24watt unit, thats about right. You can mess around with the fan speed by upping or lowering the voltage on the adaptor; how fast the fans SHOULD run depends on the ambient temp of the room.

You might get a slight improvement. Or it might already be at optimum temp for your room.

The Apogee measures slightly lower on the blue to Actinic portion of the spectrum and so the true value can be about 5% higher.

In any event, 220-260 on the sandbed is perfect. Most Acros are fine in 150+
 
I messed around with the fan speed on my 60" unit. Lower than the standard setting increased PAR by a few percent, higher decreased PAR. I suppose the default setting given in the instructions is a compromise of bulb life and PAR?
 
I messed around with the fan speed on my 60" unit. Lower than the standard setting increased PAR by a few percent, higher decreased PAR. I suppose the default setting given in the instructions is a compromise of bulb life and PAR?

T5's run most efficiently at 35degrees Celcius (at the coldspot (I think thats what it is called)). If the room temp is too high, then one needs to run the fans faster to cool the tube and keep it at the optimum temperature. Conversely, if the room is quite cold, the fans need to run much slower or else PAR is affected. Overcooling can cause a tiny loss of PAR.

The standard setting accounts for average room temp.
 
Matt,
We need more eye candy! Pixies! I love your tank.
Im starting zeovit on my 45G and was wondering if you could help me find the ideal starting dosing regimen for the basic 4. Up to now I was running GFO, with 0.01 phosphates(hanna) undetectable nitrates(salifert). My tank is well stocked with fish, but lightly stocked with corals (mostly sps frags with exception of my big Frogspawn colony)
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks again. Dont forget the eye candy :)
-Tony
 
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