600 gal display/900+ gal build thread in the Chicago 'burbs.

[einsteins]

I would call JIM at The Filter Guys...talk to him about your TDS problems.
I would refill the carts for sure it saves a lot of $$ and is easy to do.

Jim is one of the best in this Hobby for service and he is awesome at troubleshooting issues. Some of that TDS might be able to better removed with a certain special combo of filters to maximize your efficiency.
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/index.htm

You wont be sorry you called him....

eins

 

[EnglishRebel]

Yes that TDS is really high. Mine is around 35 ppm. BTW I have a TDS meter on the incoming tap water and on the exit of the DI (which is reading 0 right now - I have only made about 10 gallons for testing) how do I know when the DI resin needs changing? I have a single DI canister.
Thanks

 

[mako199]

This is what I use to save money I was using Spectrapure most expensive mixed bed DI's and they don't do any better or last any longer then this stuff from Bulkreefsupply.
I buy it in the individual foil packs so it doesn't go bad before I get to use it. And I still save quit a bit of money. My TDS is like 400-500 and my single DI only lasts 300 gallons or so. I have a Spectrapure maxcap RO/DI with a .5 micron sediment, .5 micron carbon block, 75gpd Filmtec RO and single DI. I also heard that C02 content in the water will exhaust DI's quickly. Don't know if this helps you at all. Mike

Bulk reef supply

 

[wmilas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13987977#post13987977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Yes that TDS is really high. Mine is around 35 ppm. BTW I have a TDS meter on the incoming tap water and on the exit of the DI (which is reading 0 right now - I have only made about 10 gallons for testing) how do I know when the DI resin needs changing? I have a single DI canister.
Thanks

If you feel like geeking out get another TDS meter. My UHE has 2 meters/four readings. Incoming, after membrane, after first DI, after second DI.

With only 1 DI canister you need to replace as soon as your output reads 1 TDS. If I were you I'd get an add on for a second DI. You'll save money in the long run. With 2 DI's you replace the first when it reads 50% of the membrane count, and the second when it starts reading 1. I have found out that the second can be shifted over to the first position thus extending its life and putting a fresh second in.

Basically the first DI does the brute work and the second cleans up after the first thus letting you extend the life of the resin.

 

[wmilas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13988568#post13988568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mako199
This is what I use to save money I was using Spectrapure most expensive mixed bed DI's and they don't do any better or last any longer then this stuff from Bulkreefsupply.
I buy it in the individual foil packs so it doesn't go bad before I get to use it. And I still save quit a bit of money. My TDS is like 400-500 and my single DI only lasts 300 gallons or so. I have a Spectrapure maxcap RO/DI with a .5 micron sediment, .5 micron carbon block, 75gpd Filmtec RO and single DI. I also heard that C02 content in the water will exhaust DI's quickly. Don't know if this helps you at all. Mike

Bulk reef supply

I've been doing more research. Looks like you want to go with non-color changing if you have 2 dual TDS meters because the color changing resin can leak organics. No biggie, but the non color changing is slightly better and usually cheaper

I'm just trying to decide now:

1) If I need nuclear grade in the first and Semiconductor in the second, just go all Nuclear or all Semiconductor. http://www.thefilterguys.biz/di_resin.htm They have Semi grade but the don't package it in the mylar bags which worries me. I'm guessing I'll just get the single refills from Bulk Reef Supply.

2) If I need the silica buster stuff. I can always add a 6th stage with a silica anion polisher but I honestly don't even know if its needed.

The stuff thats forming in my 0.2 micron 1st stage is quite creepy. I don't know how this crap gets through our water plant.

 

[wmilas]

Oh also my ph of my tap water is around 8 so I don't think I have a CO2 problem. If I did the ph would be reading much lower. I jsut think its plain old dirty water

 

[wmilas]

Tanks is still filling. I have the heaters pounding away in it trying to bring my frigid RO/DI salt mixed water up to 80F. 1400 watts right now heating away... I think tomorrow night sometime the tank will be full and I hope close enough to temp that I can put on the first filter bag and let it start spilling into the sump.

I ordered 2 of the Koralia 8's just try try em out and as a temporary holdover in the tank until the Tunzie 8205's are able to be ordered. I'm actually quite impressed with them. They are well made and the flow is much better than I expected. They were on sale at Dr. Fosters. I think I spent 160 each. To tell you the truth I'm having second thoughts about ordering the Tunzies. I can order 4 or 6 more 8's and have a stupid amount of flow for a fraction of the cost of the Tunzies. If one breaks after 6 months, toss it and buy another. The 8's claim about 3250 gph. Based on the flow I see off the first one it looks accurate.

 

[Crazy One]

I'm sure you've seen the Koralia wave makers, did it cross your mind about using them instead of the Tunzies?
I've noticed they were 12 volt which probably cuts down on any type of stray current in the tank?

 

[wmilas]

Well it looks like the magnum 5-8's aren't low voltage. just plain ole 120v. I think there are 12v versions of them coming out that are wave maker compatable.

 

[victor90]

Wade
What brand Lighting is that T5 fixture

 

[Jar*Head]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13999832#post13999832 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ATB USA
Wade
What brand Lighting is that T5 fixture

Victor, that is the Sfiligoi Stealth T-5 Fixture... Tank look sweet

 

[victor90]

That is one nice looking Fixture

 

[Wheel of Time]

been tagging along for a little while. just wanted to say thank you for taking so much time to share with us your whole set-up / process. Just a well-thought out and designed system!
I'm taking a few pointers on your ro/di testing and goiing to tweak my build. Curious if you found out if silica buster is a necessity?

keep posting -- great job!

 

[wmilas]

Well Randy Holmes-Farley states that you need 1-2 ppm silica if you want to have a healthy sponge population. You will also grow diatoms at this level, but from what I can read (I never worried about this before, and I never had a diatom problem, but I I was using cleaner source water where I lived before) silica should not be the limiting factor for diatoms if everything else is in balance. If things are out of balance then you can reduce the diatoms by removing the silica.

Anyways, It looks like a healthy tank needs some Silica. I still have to buy a silica test to see what my source tests at.

Something interesting to note. My UHE system shipped with the DI's already installed and pre-tested. Well I assumed it was pretested because they say that the pre-test the membrane and there was a bit of water in the packaging. Anyways I wonder if because the DI's were not sealed that they sucked up CO2 and exhausted themselves early. I've been making water like a madman the last week and a half. Have to be close to 1000 gallons. Way more than I made before and my first canister is steady at 1-2 TDS and my second at 0 TDS. The first ones had exhausted themselves by now. So I don't know how long these will last.

Victor: Jar*Head is correct. They are 12 bulb Sfiligoi Stealth fixtures.

 

[mcliffy2]

So when are we starting CATBSC (Chicago ATB/Sfiligoi Club)?

 

[wmilas]

Well considering its just you and me at this time... Did you get a large internal or external? Although the external looks neat and all, I still am old school and want my skimmer in a sump

 

[Chrisrush]

The diatoms issue was the only thing I could think of with the silica buster resin. It would probably be a good idea to keep up the silica buster resin until you tank is full, then switch to the regular stuff.

I buy and pack my own DI containers. It's very easy, and much cheaper. I also go with the non-color changing, since I have a pair of TDS meters.

 

[mcliffy2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14001494#post14001494 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wmilas
Well considering its just you and me at this time... Did you get a large internal or external? Although the external looks neat and all, I still am old school and want my skimmer in a sump

I went internal. The main reason I wanted to switch from the Reeflo is because it is external and I was losing sleep over the flood potential.

 

[GSMguy]

once you figure out the language its a breeze to program, Very nice tank.

great gadgets, the lights are pimp, and your fishroom is really clean

 

[wmilas]

Chrisrush: Thanks for the info.

mcliffy2: The exact same reason I went internal. Even though I have a floor drain, I still don't want to flush my whole sump down the drain