600 Gallon Upgrade Build

I ran upon this article while googling about water flow. What are your guys/girls opinion?

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/9/short

IMO, the article is very dated and powerheads have evolved a lot over the past few years. This design also does not alternate flow at all, while it is cheap/easy to implement it does not alternate the flow in any way. I'd think you could easily modify it and put in electronic solenoids that kick power on/off controlled via controller and it'd help change up the flow a bit? I've never used any solenoid valve before so not sure how they'd hold up to repeated opening/closings? Could be loud to as I know I can hear the ones in my RO/DI kick on/off.
 
And I Bring You

And I Bring You

She is home and in my garage. Tne next missions are:

1). Plug the holes that I was going do a closed loop. I will use bulkheads and cap them off.
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2). I will plumb the tank and do a leak test. That's all for now. So here she is:

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And the supervisor:
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IMO, the article is very dated and powerheads have evolved a lot over the past few years. This design also does not alternate flow at all, while it is cheap/easy to implement it does not alternate the flow in any way. I'd think you could easily modify it and put in electronic solenoids that kick power on/off controlled via controller and it'd help change up the flow a bit? I've never used any solenoid valve before so not sure how they'd hold up to repeated opening/closings? Could be loud to as I know I can hear the ones in my RO/DI kick on/off.

It would kinda work if I implemented a SCWD but I need to look at that dry chamber and try to understand that.
 
First thing, I went to the HD to get the parts to plug the holes I originally drilled for the closed loop. Basically they look like this:

This was for the two 2 inch drains.
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This was for the eight 3/4 inch returns.
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The plugged bulkheads were added and both sides look like this: the oddball bulkhead is the replacement because I cracked the original one.
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I drilled two 1 inch returns and three 2 inch drains. Before the tank was taken to get buffed I altered the overflow and switched it from two 2 inch drains to three 2 inch drains. The center 2 inch drain will be a dry chamber so I can run the cords from the wave makers and power heads to the inside of the stand.
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I will go back to the HD to get the PVC pipes for the overflow and do a leak test. Updates will be following soon. Input is appreciated.
 
Leak Test Commences

Leak Test Commences

Zero Hour
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Hour 1
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Had to stop filling the tank because there were leaks coming out of 6 of the 12 bulkheads. Will have to fix leaks and try again later.
 
I would consider adding some silicone to the bulkheads, especially since you aren't going to be using them anytime soon.
 
What are the chances you are going to tear this tank down and redo it with a closed loop? I'd consider just sealing them off with weld on and acrylic for a sure fire leak free tank.
 
IME silicone does not adhere to acrylic (for long)...I sealed some 'extra' holes with weldon and acrylic...no problems/leaks...for over 7 years so far!

Thanks. I'm glad you chimed in. You have made my decision that much easier. Once again, thanks.
 
Per albano's suggestion, I took out the bulkheads and used some left over acrylic and weldon tocover the holes. Now it needs to cure for the next 48-72 hours. More than likely I will test leak and fill the tank Saturday or Sunday.

Before:

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After:

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Thanks for the advice albano.
 
Glad you went that route Wayne, was going to say something but have been busy. Having the bulkhead is just another point of failure and that acrylic bond is just as strong as anything else you'd seal it off with.

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