6055s on Aquasurf in a 90g

[qfrisco]

Hi all -

I currently have only one 6055 on an Aquasurf configured for wave generation, and I've got a couple questions. Even with just one 6055, I get a decent enough wave in my 90g, but not as good as when I go from 0%->100% on the intensity. Keeping the minimum intensity at 30% to prevent the knocking kills the wave, and with my other powerheads (2 K3s) running, the wave is just obliterated.

- is there anything I can do to prevent the knocking and still be able to go down to 0%?
- I'll be getting a second 6055 soon. What's the best configuration - both 6055s on the same side, or on opposite ends?

Thanks!

 

[shawnz28]

Do you mean the pump is clicking? There was a drive unit revision to fix this some time ago. How long have you had the pump? Roger could likely help you with getting a new impeller if needed.

As for best config honestly I would by a 6206 if you are after a wave and keep the 6055s for what they do best which is flow.... one on each side of the tank.

 

[rvitko]

Yes, let me know on the drive unit.

 

[qfrisco]

Yes, let me know on the drive unit.

Thanks, Roger! I've only had the pump for a couple weeks, but I bought it used from a fellow DFWMAS club member, and I'm not sure how long he had it.

I take it the clicking isn't normal, then? Specifically, when I have my AC3/Aquasurf drive it with alternating <30% (minimum) and 100% (maximum) power, the pump clicks about every other time it powers up to 100%.

Also, I noticed that the lowest the pump can go to but still spin is 30%. Anything below that (20%, 25%, etc), the pump stops completely.

Is any of the above normal behavior? Ideally, I'd love to be able to run the pump from 0% to 100% for wave generation.

Thanks!

 

[rvitko]

It was normal but when the Nano Wavebox came out since it shares the same motor and drive we had to redesign it to handle off and on cycles without clicking. The pump should not be run at less than 30% power, this can cause the motor to burn out as it is not enough power to give the drive unit a stable rotation and the motor will overheat. With the new drive unit the click will be almost completely gone and you can do 0-100%.

 

[qfrisco]

It was normal but when the Nano Wavebox came out since it shares the same motor and drive we had to redesign it to handle off and on cycles without clicking. The pump should not be run at less than 30% power, this can cause the motor to burn out as it is not enough power to give the drive unit a stable rotation and the motor will overheat. With the new drive unit the click will be almost completely gone and you can do 0-100%.

Thanks, Roger! Just to clarify - with the new drive unit I will be able to run at less than 30% power and not burn the motor out?

If so, I'm sold! Do I just go to Tunze's main website to order a new drive unit?

 

[rvitko]

You can run 0% which is off, but nothing between 0% and 30%. It will only stop the click when going form off to 100%. Nothing can change that, it needs at least 30% to start spinning in a stable rotation, below 30% it works just like a gyroscope that is slowing down, it wobbles and stops.

 

[qfrisco]

You can run 0% which is off, but nothing between 0% and 30%. It will only stop the click when going form off to 100%. Nothing can change that, it needs at least 30% to start spinning in a stable rotation, below 30% it works just like a gyroscope that is slowing down, it wobbles and stops.

Gotcha - thank you! I'm ready to order. Is there a specific part number?

 

[rvitko]

You may actually need two parts. Is your drive unit white propeller on a grey shaft and magnet base or all white except the actual magnet? Does it have a stainless steel disk (washer) at the base of the shaft?

 

[qfrisco]

You may actually need two parts. Is your drive unit white propeller on a grey shaft and magnet base or all white except the actual magnet? Does it have a stainless steel disk (washer) at the base of the shaft?

It's got a white propeller, but the shaft and magnet base are all grey. And looks like it has a stainless steel washer, plus a rubber-looking one. Pics below in case I don't know what I'm looking at.

 

[rvitko]

Did the metal shaft come out? The black disk is usually very hard to remove as the shaft shouldn't come out. I would replace the disks, one new thicker one will replace both. 6025.740 is the disk, it will be a double thickness black one and 6055.700 is the drive unit.

 

[qfrisco]

No, the metal shaft didn't come out. I could see there were washers in there, so I just kept tapping the motor until the washers slid out.

Thanks, again, Roger!

 

[qfrisco]

Sorry, Roger - one additional question: should I replace the disk and the drive unit, or just the disk?

 

[rvitko]

Both, the disk is thicker and this prevents clicking from the drive unit clapping down on the base of the pump and the drive unit has a stiff prop attachment so it cannot click from the prop moving on start up.

 

[qfrisco]

Awesome - thanks, Roger!

By the way, I have another 6055 (brand new) coming in later this week. I assume all new shipments of 6055s have the redesigned parts?

 

[rvitko]

Yes, they changed this in January 2008.