75 Gallon Build

cardiffgiant

Active member
I’m working on a new build and I’d like to share my progress here in the local club. My target is to have this completed within 2 months, provided I don’t get called back out onto the road for work right away… or run out of $ ;)

I’ve benefited a great deal from everyone’s experiences so far, and I gladly welcome any feedback or recommendations from the group.

Current System:
Currently I’m running a 55G display, draining from a pump driven HOT overflow to a 10G Rubbermaid with my skimmer, which then drains to 10G refugium with a chamber that has my return pump. A canister filter and a RDSB are pump fed from the skimmer vessel. Power comes from a dedicated 15A circuit with a single GFCI outlet, and 2 power strips. There is a 2 gallon top off.

The current system has a lot of risk (as would be expected when daisy chaining multiple vessels). The return chamber in the 10 gallon refugium doesn’t have enough room for the entire back siphon, and there is a risk of 1-2 gallons of water hitting the floor in the event that the return pump or power fails. There is risk of flooding if a blockage occurs in the skimmer vessel, or if a blockage or pump failure occurs in the HOT overflow. The mounted commercial power strips are difficult to keep tidy, and create potential for electrical problems.


Proposed System:
Objective:
Upgrade the current system to improve safety, reduce risk, improve aesthetics, and reduce noise.

Tanks:
I am in the process of upgrading to a 75G display with a 30L sump. The 75 will drain to the sump with a Calfo style overflow that has 3 drains. The sump will house the skimmer, return chamber, and refugium. The RDSB will still be an external vessel, and the canister filter will be removed.

Overflow:
The overflow will be a calfo style, and will have 3 drains. The first is a siphon, the second is an open channel that will be dialed back slightly to reduce noise, and the third is a contingency drain that should only kick in when there is a blockage. Additionally, the vent for the open channel is brought back in to the overflow box, so that the open channel becomes a faster draining siphon in the event that the water level rises. I’m basing I on the design in this thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1310585&highlight=silent+overflow

Stand:
This is scary, because I’m not a carpenter and this is the first piece of furniture that I’ve ever built. I am building a stand with a frame based on the design in the following thread. I will use a ply wood on the sides, quality 1x6 to frame around the front, 1x24x20 doors, and will use 1x2 as molding (to match the mission style molding in the room).

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1169964

I’m going to remove the GFCI outlet that I have in my circuit today, and put a junction cover over the box that is rated for outdoor use. Using 5 2 gang boxes I am going to hardwire the stand with 1 15A GFCI (first in the circuit), 7 15A outlets, and connect 2 outlets to switches that will be on the outside of the tank. I will use EFT to shield the wire that runs between the junction at the wall and the stand, and between each of the 2 gang boxes in the stand.

Canopy:
I haven’t seen a lot of plans for canopies. I am going to attempt one based on the two threads below. Eventually, I want to build a T5 retro kit into the canopy. I don’t plan to use this for a while, but want to make sure that I have something stained to match the stand. I’m thinking that I want to go about 10-12” high.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1198787&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1365166
 
Here are some pictures of the current system:

Full tank shot:
DSC01252.jpg


Auto top off, electrical rats nest, and skimmer vessel (scary):
DSC01249.jpg


Skimmer draining in to refugium and return chamber (also scary):
DSC01250.jpg
DSC01248.jpg
 
The new 75 that I bought from psychofishy:
DSC01253.jpg


Kurts old 30 gallon sump that I got at RC:
DSC01254.jpg


Building the frame for the stand:
DSC01255.jpg

DSC01256.jpg

DSC01257.jpg


Adding a base for the sump:
DSC01262.jpg

DSC01264.jpg
 
ben just a thought, if this where my build I would consider adding some center braces (top to bottom) on the stand to ensure that it will support the wieght of the tank(600-700lbs). Personally I always overbuild just to ensure structural failure never becomes an issue. The braces could be run at angles or be out of a different type of material if you want to leave the openings that size. pm or call me if you need any help.
 
IME & IMO no center braces are needed on the stand I see in these pictures. Ben must be following a reliable blueprint for a DIY stand.
Looking good.
 
So, I've actually gotten back in to make some progress. I'll be posting new pictures within the next day or so.

What I've done since the last update:
-Keith built and installed the overflow (looks sweet)
-I bought 3 1.5" true union valves
-I bought the eheim 1262 to use for my return
-Added the sides and the bottom of the stand
-Installed and tested the electric (20 outlets (8 switch controlled), GFCI protected, wired with outdoor rated 12 gauge)

Next stets:
-Finish the woodwork for the stand (front, borders, doors)
-Build the canopy
-Build the ATO box
 
I'm not sure what I'll do about those screens. I plan to use loc line in my return plumbing and come up over the side of the tank, so I would have to cut holes in the screen. But I'll be using a canopy at some point, and I've been getting away with an open top for a long time now.
 
I love the overflow! Great job!

I have a prefab overflow in the 70 I'm putting together. I just have the return pipe about an inch higher than the top of the box and lock line pointing down. That way I didn't have to cut the sides of the box. And it give the Durso some head room to monkey with. The stock box is pretty tight.

As for a conopy, I'm running T5's on this one so it only stands about 6 or 8 inches high. I have the lights on the roof of the canopy about 5-7 inches off of the water (T5's so heats not an issue). The lights clear the return pipes w/ lockline by an inch or so.

Hope that's what you meand about cutting holes in the overflow screens.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13012650#post13012650 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
so, why the romex for one connection and the flexible tube/conduit for the other?

All of the wiring is UF (underground feed) and is wrapped water tight. However, I plan to cover all of it, so that it won't be vulnerable to being bumped or splashed. Some with flexible EFT, and some with paneling.

I've found that the flexible EFT doesn't work very well in small quarters. The wiring on the sides will eventually be covered by a painted wooden panel. The wire that runs from the stand to the wall will also be shielded by flexible EFT (like the 50" run across the stand), and will have a drip loop. That will be on of the final phases of the build, and will be cut to length when the stand actually comes upstairs.
 
GOT IT. I have not seen flexible EFT like that before either. I used the water-tight in my tank room, but it would be a pain under a stand like you say, because it is not really flexible enough without getting into a bunch of joints that are nearly impossible to pull through. was that a run-on? :rolleyes:
 
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