88 watt Leds

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14406589#post14406589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by evilc66
I'm not going to agree with you there. The testing i have done has shown that royal blue LEDs will produce almost as much PAR watt for watt as cool whites. I was quite surprised by it too, but it makes sense. You have an LED sonsuming the same power as a cool white with about the same efficiency, but emiting a much tighter spectrum that happens to be close to the peak response for photosynthesis. Cool whites make up what they lose in blue ouput on the red end of the scale.

I checked the PAR output of an array of 6 cool white LEDs compared to an array of 6 Royal Blue LEDs. The Cool whites are rated at 100 lumens at 350 mA and the Royal Blue at 275 mW radiometric power. The PAR readings on this combination show PAR levels to be about equal. The PAR measurements I made before were rated at 175 mW for the royal blues and the cool whites at 70 lumens and the PAR readings show the white to have more PAR. So the problem still is , is the 100 lumens of white light equivent to 275 mw radiometric power of the royal blue, or is the 275 mw now overpowering the cool whites?????
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14419891#post14419891 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lynxvs
It's also the reason LED aquarium light manufactures put in a few Cyan LEDs at 500 nm to fill out the dip in the spectral response...

Just a FYI

The primary benefit of light to corals is the conversion of PAR into the energy required for photosythesis by the symbiotic zooxanthellae in the coral tissue to produce food. Photosynthetic pigments in the zooxanthellal cells carry out the collection of the light energy, such that they efficiently absorb light in the 400 to 700 nm range. The zooxanthellae contain various types of pigments: chlorophyll a, chlorophyll c and the carotenoids, such as Beta carotene, peridinnine and dinoxanthines. The pigments in the cells will absorb different wavelengths with different efficiencies. The absorption spectrum for zooxanthellae has been shown to have a broad peak in the 400 to 500 nm waveband (blue-green) and a narrow peak in the 650 to 700 (red) waveband. Dustanââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s research (1982)
 
Not really.

This thread really made me think about my controller that I brought back in December in what it lack in functionality.

My lights that i have on order, was put on list to be built.
He has other customer before me. Its only fair for them, to wait my turn.
Because of the issues i had with my tank stand (level) and controller. I told him, pass me up on the list for now.

Now that I have fix the level problem, and order my new controller, i want to play with the controller and then revist the lights again.

This controller will have the ability to send 1-10v analog signal to control a dimmer circuit for the LEDs.
Sorry for those are following this thread. I am always brainstorming and have to take couple of back steps before I can go forward again.
 
I am really enjoying this conversation, so please lets keep it alive, here is a tank that had 400 watt metal halides over it, they were replaced with our 144 watt units, the requirement was for the ability to view the tank from over head so he ordered the lights with a 25 degree lens, this is the same angle that has been talked about here.
the end result was for the lights to have to be placed 18 inches over the tank to give full coverage.
so here is a site that has a before and after photo 400 mh to 144 watt led and an example of 25 degree lenses on a unit.
http://www.cvreefers.org/showthread.php?t=10500

look at post 16 and 35
 
Smgsllc have you look into adding dimming ability to your LED circuit?

I have been playing with my new controller, Profilux II ex, I know it’s the best controller on the market other then getting a PLC.
It has 6 analog outputs 0-10 VDC for control purposes. In the near future, Profilux is releasing their new Analog 0-10 VDC input card.

My goal is to have the quantum sensor be monitor by Profilux and have the controller dim my lights to the proper level require for that day.
Also Profilux can data log par levels versa dimming level, from that data you be able to determine when the LEDs or fluorescents are losing some of its life and when they should be replace.

BTW, once I get quantum sensor and the analog input card. I am going to write up a very nice article on how to connect and program the Profilux Controller to monitor and control your dimmable lights, with data logging.
 
I forgot about this thread.

I found these drivers, could probably work with this light to give you dimmable lights.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm

I am leaning toward the AI led system.
Also this post has me thinking.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14346795#post14346795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ITR
[QUOTE
I don't really know how SMGS arrived at the conclusion that one unit will cover 2' of tank, and I don't know where AI concluded that 2 units will cover 2' of tank, but.....

By purchasing three 88w SMGS 13.5" units, yeah it saves more than half of the AI units, but you are getting 3 less units than the AI. Buy six of the 88w SMGS units and the cost jumps to $3,300 with no controlling capabilities and no mounting equipment. Now, the cost of both are nearly equal if the light output is equal.


Trying to get a clear answer for this question is going to be impossible without spending money for both lights.
 
The lack of any updates of these lights has made me to consider in making my own LED system.

I just place an order with a group buy at nano reef.

My order is the following.

56 whites LED
56 blues LED
9 Drivers (http://www.meanwell.com/search/ELN-60/ELN-60-spec.pdf)
100 60 degree optics
6 25 degree optics
6 8 degree optics

I am going to place these lights on 2 pieces of 10.5 x 28 inches Heat Sink.
I am also installing full fan controller with built in alarms for high temps.
With the help with GHL and Evil (the cool person that handling the group buy).
My goal is to built a fully dimmable LED system with the functions of clouds, storm and lunar cycles, just like the AI system.
With a PAR sensor connected to the Profilux Controller, my goals is to data log the par levels and maybe have data control my lights intensity.

I am planning a full report once all the parts are delivered. If there is enough interest I might make a DIY thread also.

The group buy is over now, and maybe in the future Evil might decide to do another one.

I am hoping RC reconsider the policy to wards Group Buys, I believe everyone on the forums would benefit from it.
 
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Sounds like a great plan. I can't wait to read the writeup.

Where did you get the 10.5 x 28" heatsinks? Are they the new x-large from heatsinkUSA?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14951420#post14951420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejmitch
Sounds like a great plan. I can't wait to read the writeup.

Where did you get the 10.5 x 28" heatsinks? Are they the new x-large from heatsinkUSA?

Yes, I was told from them, they will have it soon.
 
Cool. I plan to use one of those when I build the second half of my light. In the meantime I'm going to work on the first, smaller half.

Good luck!
 
I should have all the parts in 3 weeks, the driver is being shipped on a slow boat from china, pun intended, lol.

If everything goes well, this will have the same features of a AI System but at 1/3 of the cost.
 
I guess I am old fashioned, I just don't like the way those LED's look. They look so dim, I like the tank to be flooded with light. It reminds me much more of what it was like when I've been snorkeling.

I am still interested in them though. Hopefully one day they will look how I would like them to. To me at the end of the day the most important thing isn't the angle of the been or any of that. Its whether it looks good to me or not. Now that might sound incredible ignorant, but its the truth. And I am still yet to see a pic of an SPS tank with LED lights. I have seen tons of softy and LPS pics, but no SPS dominated pics. Does anybody have them?
 
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