900 Gallon Reef Project

As of right now I am using 3 1000w MH on my 700g dt. Experimenting with different leds. the depth of mine is 42 in. Just throwing something out there for you regarding your cl, I am using 2 diablo dc pumps on my cl. soft start, variable speed and timed. And dead nutz quiet. A far as the leds I am looking into, I really don't care about the gimmicks of storm mode, etc
 
As of right now I am using 3 1000w MH on my 700g dt. Experimenting with different leds. the depth of mine is 42 in. Just throwing something out there for you regarding your cl, I am using 2 diablo dc pumps on my cl. soft start, variable speed and timed. And dead nutz quiet. A far as the leds I am looking into, I really don't care about the gimmicks of storm mode, etc

I am just looking for something that gets the job done. I dont need a ton of bells and whistles, as I tend to never use them. Just want to avoid spending another few grand on something that doesn't even do the basics right. There is so much conflicting information that I am considering just going back to halides at this point.

What are you using to time your CL and what are the timing settings?

I just found out that my local water switched over to CHLORAMINES instead of chlorine and I didnt know. Ran out and got a test kit, sure enough even with 2 standard carbon filters, chloramines are getting through. It explains why I burn through so much DI resin and why my membranes were getting chewed up and also why my tank has had so much trouble. Ran out and purchased a PENTEK CRFC20-BB Chloramines Monster. I am going to see if I see any difference once I get that setup. I am hoping this is the cause of all my issues as this is the only place I have lived where the local water supply used high doses of chloramines.
 
I use the apex to control the cl. the diablos also are variable speed with a feed mode. I have then running alternately to avoid spending$ on a ocean motion and more plumbing. My water sucks too, I blow thru 2 canisters of resin for approx. 1oo to 125 gal of water. Gets crazy with evap rate of about 5 to 10 gal daily. The nitrates are so bad on the incoming water, the test kit just laughs. Going to upgrade to either the BRS jumbos or something equiv. or find a really good deal on bulk resin. The nice part of leds is that its one fixture vs moonlight fixture, atinic fixture and mh fixture with cooling fan.
 
I am just looking for something that gets the job done. I dont need a ton of bells and whistles, as I tend to never use them. Just want to avoid spending another few grand on something that doesn't even do the basics right. There is so much conflicting information that I am considering just going back to halides at this point.

What are you using to time your CL and what are the timing settings?

I just found out that my local water switched over to CHLORAMINES instead of chlorine and I didnt know. Ran out and got a test kit, sure enough even with 2 standard carbon filters, chloramines are getting through. It explains why I burn through so much DI resin and why my membranes were getting chewed up and also why my tank has had so much trouble. Ran out and purchased a PENTEK CRFC20-BB Chloramines Monster. I am going to see if I see any difference once I get that setup. I am hoping this is the cause of all my issues as this is the only place I have lived where the local water supply used high doses of chloramines.

That happened down here recently - killed off a few people's tanks. Over time I think that will help.
 
Just took a while to read through this thread. Congrats on your son and the journey you had with this tank. You'll figure out the issue. I assume you swapped all the sand/rock out by now. Hopefully you'll get to the bottom of it. I have LEDs off e-bay. Don't know if you want to give it a shot. They're really affordable and was thoroughly tested by members on aquariumadvice.com Taotronics are the name brand or you can search 120W Dimmable LED on e-bay. The Par levels were that of $1000 system. Just a thought...
 
That looks amazing! I bet the water changes aren't much fun though

Water changes are simple. I simply add 1 salt bucket to one of the two 160 gallon containers of RO water I have on standby. Turn on the mixing pump and wait. I turn a valve off the main pump and it drains the water from my sump. When it reaches 160 gallons drained (which I have marked in the sump) I turn the valve again. Then I simply turn the mixing pump valve to pump into my sump. Total work = 3 minutes, with a bit of wait time.
 
The issue that I see with the cannons are that you still need additional fixutes for moon and atinics. I have narrowed my choices to either radion pro or the GHLs. The GHLs have more of a spread, whereas the radions kinda leave the corners lacking light. The only other issue would be whether or not the GHLs will run off the apex. I am considering the Profilux touch controller anyway. I am debating either 6 or 8 fixtures on an 8 foot by 44" wide. Either way my wife is gonna shoot me!:o
 
The issue that I see with the cannons are that you still need additional fixutes for moon and atinics. I have narrowed my choices to either radion pro or the GHLs. The GHLs have more of a spread, whereas the radions kinda leave the corners lacking light. The only other issue would be whether or not the GHLs will run off the apex. I am considering the Profilux touch controller anyway. I am debating either 6 or 8 fixtures on an 8 foot by 44" wide. Either way my wife is gonna shoot me!:o

GHL would be going too run on the Apex! Really soon!
 
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