90g is started

Since it is a pressure-rated pump, it probably is too much for this application.

Also, from the rear view, the return on the right will have more flow than the one on the left. Due to the water following the path of least resistance, it will travel straight up more quickly than it will taking a left turn to the other side.

You could have the drainline pour into a bubble tower perhaps.
bubble_tower.jpg
 
I put the tee in that configeration from all the setups and post I'v read about tee's. That is was better to run it in line and run use the tee section to feed the oether side and just turn down the valve out put with the bigger return. from what I understand is that it makes alot of head pressure when you run it straight up to a stop and then split it out each side.

That bubble trap is cool. I might put that in if I get some micro bubble with the skimmer. But the problem is the noise. The "hot tub" sound of the large bubbles coming down and out. I'm looking at putting a T at the top to see if that releaves the pressure.

As for the pump I'm hoping the chiller will slow it down. I was looking at the ps2 which also uses the same watts so I might just run a T of back to the sump with a valve. This should releave any extra strain from backing off the flow off the pump.
thanks for input
 
The noise will quiet down as the plumbing slimes over (this can take up to 14 days). A freshwater test is very loud compared to a saltwater test.

I don't understand how that particular configuration will give you equal flow, but then again I've never set one up like that. If it is a proven method and it has been measured to be equal, that's good to know. Anyone provide any tangible proof?
 
You should have just went witha 180gal. You know you will be upgradeing again in a couple years.. LOL Loks good though.
 
I'm not certain I like the placement of your return pump it sure looks like a real PITA to get too. Lil late now though.

Personally, I'd put another lid on that overflow return baffle. I had one setup as melev suggested. I ended up with a bit of micro spray and salt buildup from the surface bubbles bursting. The lid stopped that.

lols reefez I understand completely your last statement. I've been bitten by the upgrade urge. I've been looking at a 90. HMM for only a couple more inches of space i can HAVE A 120 :).
 
Melev,
Sound
it's not the sound of the water going through the piping but the sound of the bigger bubble popping from the drain pipe thats in the sump. I think there are a few other current threads going on right now with the same problem. It's about an 1inch or so under water. I had an extra 45 elbow around so I put it on and it helped relieve most of the big popping problem. It now diverts the flow and makes smaller bubbles but still some lager ones that pop really loud. I think once I put a tee where the elbow is now on the down section to vent out the pressure it should be better. I hope this makes more sense.

1174065918_dsc00720.jpg


1174066101_dsc00722.jpg



Equal lines
I got most of the info from Delbeek and Sprungs Reef aquarium vol #3.

"one common mistake we often see with the installation of tee fittings occurs when an aquarist wants to split a return line into two streams to feed water to returns at opposite ends of the tank. In this case, the incoming line is fed into the branch of the tee and the outlets are on either end. this causes a great deal of backpressure and results in reduced flow out both ends. the correct way to do this is to take one line from the branch to one outlet and the rest of the water continues through the run to the other outlet. Valves are then used after the tee to control the flow out of each outlet"

1174064035_dsc00718.jpg


with the chart my 1" tee "flow through run" is eaqual to 1.7 feet of 1" piping. But when you use the tee as a" flow through branch" it's equal to 6 feet of 1" piping. Thats a big differrance.

equivalent lenth of internal diameter pipe in feet.

1174065332_dsc00719.jpg



TGfrench

Pump
The tank is almost a foot off the back wall. I will have full acess to the back from the left side. The current 40g tank thats there right now is going into this 90g tank. I'm taking the 40g down along with the 12g nano next to it. That and the stand is 36" tall so if I wanted to I fit right through the front.



lid

I'm not sure what where you are taking about putting the lid.

the main tank has a lid for the corner overflow. The sump top corners are euro braced with a large lip. Thanks for looking out though. THe only thing I might see doing is plugging up the old return/ drain lines in the sump. They are pretty high up so I'm not sure I need to yet. The whole sump will hold about an extra 6-8 gal before it hits the holes.

1174067701_dsc00726.jpg

1174067773_dsc00727.jpg


Reefez,Tgfrench
bigger and bigger
I know i know. I have a whole foot behind the tank that could of made it a 120-150g. I still live in an apartment and 90g with a 45g sump is still alot of water. I'm hoping not too much. So a 120 or a 150 was way out of the question. I would have loved too though. The good thing is I have all the equipment now to run a larger tank. So come house time be sure to look for a at least a 120 and up build.
 
I like your researched answers. Good pictures too. I think your thread will be an asset to the RC community. :)

On the paragraph quoted, it mentions <i>Valves are then used after the tee to control the flow out of each outlet.</i> This is key to getting equal flow.
 
Thanks Melev

About two days of running and no leaks. Woo Hoo. Time to empty it back out and fill it with ro/di and salt mix.
I'v been running the lights for about 8 hours a day too and have bad news.85+*! Thats without the skimmer and small fuge light connected. No fans hooked up yet though. But with the weather here in Valley it gets hot. It's been cool right now with an ambient room temp during the day of 72-75. During the hotter days ithe room can go to 75-80. This is with out the room a/c running. I've seen my 40g jump to 88 one time with the learning curve on moving to the valley. So no it's not peanut butter jelly time its peanut butter chiller time.
 
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lookn good buster

Glad you have that much room behind the cabinet. I did notice the extra wood under the pump I just didn't know if it was still there or not. Anyways I re-did my sump some time back after going over melev's site. And I had a problem with the sound so I built a lil box.
67633bubblebox_bmp.jpg

It fits in the back corner of my sump and has quietened down my return and killed the micro bubbles. It sits where the grey return pipe in the pic so that the piping now flows into it. And I've got the neck of my skimmer shoved into its outlet.

67633mini-sump01.JPG
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9492604#post9492604 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by busterb
Melev,
Sound
it's not the sound of the water going through the piping but the sound of the bigger bubble popping from the drain pipe thats in the sump. I think there are a few other current threads going on right now with the same problem. It's about an 1inch or so under water. I had an extra 45 elbow around so I put it on and it helped relieve most of the big popping problem. It now diverts the flow and makes smaller bubbles but still some lager ones that pop really loud. I think once I put a tee where the elbow is now on the down section to vent out the pressure it should be better. I hope this makes more sense.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493761#post9493761 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by busterb
Thanks Melev

About two days of running and no leaks. Woo Hoo. Time to empty it back out and fill it with ro/di and salt mix.

As I thought, freshwater will be loud. Saltwater will be far more quiet. The difference is night and day.
 
AT first I was filling with ro and stopped halfway. I decided to fill it with just tap water to do a systems flush and leak check. It was to flush out all the dirty piping , glue residues and anything else. Now that everything is checking out I'm filling it back up why ro/di.
 
Yeah. Just picked up the Chiller. I ended getting the 1/4 current usa tower. I love how this thing is really clean looking. It's also very thin. I'm changing the pluming to run this inline with the return. I'm setting it up with balve valves and unions so I can take it out and run a short hose in it' place in case I need to take it out.

I also picked up 160lbs of sand. I'm looking for at least a 3" bed. The tank is about half way full of mixing ro/di salt. When I fill the whole thing up I'll do a 30-50% water swap with the 90g. Then wait about a day and do another 30-50% swap. By this time the two tanks will have the exact same water params and I can just move everything right over.

1174216477_dsc00744.jpg
 
It's filled with sand,water and salt. Letting the whole tank calm down from the clouds. I used 120lbs of sand in the main tank and 40 lbs in the fuge. So it's about 3inches(not spread evenly yet) in the tank and about 4+ inches in the fuge.

1174437912_dsc00749.jpg


As for the sound, Big bubble popping sound, well it's solved. I put a tee 1 1/2X 1 1/2 tee 1" torward the bottom of the drain. Added a 90' to a vented cap. No sound. well just a little with small bubble. With the vent hole you can feel alot of air is coming out. Also you can see in the pic I'm hanging a filter sock off it to help clear the dust storm.
1174437631_dsc00746.jpg

1174438192_dsc00747.jpg

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Well.. I got everything moved over. It took a few hours just becuase I was swaping 10% of the new tank and old tank waters every 1/2 hour. with a total of 5 times. It ended up like being a really big water change over a period of about 3 hours. Added the new 40lbs base rock that been sitting in old tank water for about a month. It's the really white rock. Took all the corals and put them in a tub and took out the old rock to put in the new tank. About 70lbs. After a little rock scaping I fished out the fish and that was it.

To get the corals acustomed to the new MH I have them on separate timers. The left one comes on at 2pm for only 4hours, then then right one over laps about 1/2 hour at around 3:30 and stays on for just 4 hours too. There is bleed off light from the indivdual lamps to the far side of the tank. I think I'll do this for a few weeks.

So here is the tank and sump. I have about 90lbs of rock in the main and about 20lbs in the fuge. I might add about 20lbs to the main just to add a little more depth.

1174973561_dsc00777.jpg


1174973810_dsc00771.jpg


1174973893_dsc00774.jpg


1174973938_dsc00778.jpg
 
So things went so well with out a hitch there had to be something wrong. Well It did. The new chiller I installed malfuntioned. The Thermostat went haywire. I went home after dinner last night and found the chiller running and reading 117 degrees!!! I have a separate thermometer reading 73.9!! So I quickly unplugged the chiller. Man this sucks. I hope everything survives this temperature playground. As for the chiller I bought it from Marinedepot in anaheim. I'v got a RMA# for the return and bringing it in on fri. THey said they will check it out and give me a replacement after they find a fault. Arrrgghh why do these things seem to happen.. oh.. I forgot It's just what comes along with reefing.

Thinking about getting a controller now also to prevent this from happening. I'm not sure how I can do that with a chiller though. Considering having a switch for the high watts of the chiller.
 
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