A Different Beckett Housing Design

weatherson said:
Gujustud: Thanks and there's no secret. It's just that most everyone chooses not to do what it takes. That is preparation, preparation and preparation. ;) All too often, this is bypassed in search of instant gratification. Unfortunately, the result from this thought process is usually less than spectacular. So, sanding and scraping are mandatory. I typically start with 120 grit for descent surfaces and 80 for the severely marred. Then 240 and finally 320. I use a buffing wheel on a stand-mounted grinder with proper plastic buffing compound. It takes about four passes to achieve perfect clarity. The areas not accessible by the buffer I flame smooth. This is a bit more difficult to master but with practice can prove to be equal to buffing. I just prefer to heat the plastic as little as possible so when not absolutely mandatory, I will go to the buffing wheel. Flaming takes great attention and a steady hand with eye-hand coordination. There's a point just after achieving the smooth finish where it all turns ugly. ;) Let's just say that it's easier to ruin a piece than it is to get it right.

Joseph
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I've been reading up on the Acrylic questions, and got some good ideas.

Most of the work I'll be doing (now that i'm getting heavily into this hobby) will be done on the CNC, and some of the work I've done already comes polished off, just by running a high RPM. I was moreso just interested about the actual FLAT surfaces big surfaces. I guess some good high grit sandpaper, and buffing wheel will do.

Last question, do you use any type of compound?
 
Gujustud: If your are referring to a compound for buffing, yes I do. What brand it is I can't recall but it's specifically designed for plastic. If you mean for the already polished flat areas, I use just standard hand polishing plastic polish cream. Most all the stock I work with is new and with care, doesn't need any polishing on the non-edge areas.

I should also state that I use MAP gas when flaming edges.

So, you have access to CNC equipment. I'm jealous. ;)

Joseph
 
weatherson said:
Gujustud: If your are referring to a compound for buffing, yes I do. What brand it is I can't recall but it's specifically designed for plastic. If you mean for the already polished flat areas, I use just standard hand polishing plastic polish cream. Most all the stock I work with is new and with care, doesn't need any polishing on the non-edge areas.

I should also state that I use MAP gas when flaming edges.

So, you have access to CNC equipment. I'm jealous. ;)

Joseph
Click to expand...

Ahh, I'll check out one of the local plastic stores for the compound.

Yeah, I'm lucky that my dad, after so many years, finally started his own CNC shop, so I decided to work there. We've got 2 CNC mills, with a few odd manual machines. I just got into this whole hobby, about 2-3 months ago, I'm so surprised by how much I can make. I've started with some basic stuff like over flow boxes, and such. I'll be working on my skimmer next, once my stand is done.

Thanks again for taking the time to post up your journey! Good inspiration for us beginner DIY'ers!
 
Woah...... Holy Shizz.... nice machines and nice machine work, I wish I had that many machine and a big place to put them in, when I build my skimmer, all I am using is a $1 hack saw, a $20 cordless drill and my priceless hand.... anyways, nice clean work, I hope you didn't spend an awful lot of time on polishing them, coz skimmer get really really dirty after couple months of useage, 1 question tho, how come u are using plastic wing nuts and bolts for the connection? I would use a router and do some keyhole and use that instead if I were you, my skimmer pull out a LOT of gunk every day and after a week I need to take it apart and clean it out, I found that every time I need to unscrew that 8 wing nut is a pain in the rear, I don't know, maybe I am just too lazy...... anyways, good job
 
DarkDevil: Thanks and I'm pleased you appreciate my skimmer. Actually, I have 16 wing nuts to deal with. ;) I really don't mind the minute it takes to remove them and prefer the better torque they provide. It's just my personal preference.

Joseph
 
That is one killer looking skimmer, you did excellent work on that one..... Looks like I have my new project for school, my teacher often wonders what I am making...He often wonders is they are nothing more than very elaborate bongs....Thanks for posting your awsome skimmer...
 
WOW. Most excellent work.
I don't know if I missed it or not but how did you add the bulkheads to the round risers? Just by heating and tightening the bulkhead until it is flat? I have never tried.
I am going to play in the shop this weekend on those beckett heads. I can get the ends made but I am waiting on some tube right now.

:beer:

Again WOW beautiful !!!!!
Time consuming but worth it for the perfectionist.

Also where did you get your circle cutter and blades
 
RJARMAN: Thanks for the kind words and yes, I can see why your teacher might be a little concerned. ;)

trueblood: Thanks for the words of praise. I did exactly that, slowly heated the area of the tube with my torch set at low heat and then inserted the bulkhead when the plastic was pliable enough. I did this without the rubber gasket and cinched the bulkhead tight to flatten the plastic. This makes for a watertight seal once cooled and hardened. Rubber gasket replaced, of course.
The circle cutter, by Jasper, can be found at
Parts Express. They are a electronics/speaker building site. The bits I get from a local woodworking store. Amana sells router bits specifically for plastic.

Joseph
 
Lunchbucket: While I agree that it's a great deal for the combo pack, you have to ask yourself if it's worth it for the additional ability to cut holes smaller than 2 and 1/4". They duplicate themselves above this size. So, for ten bucks you get 1" to 2 and 1/4" holes. If you think you need this, go for it. If not, spend the 10 bucks on some acrylic stock. ;)

Joseph
 
Broken: Thanks and I'm pleased I provided you with motivation. ;) I'm assuming you are referring to the whole skimmer. Unfortunately, most of the parts I had on hand and I didn't keep track of the others that were purchased. Sorry, but you should be able to price all the parts out in advance. The only issue you may have is in locating the 10" acrylic cylinder. My usual online sources don't stock it in this size but if you have a local plastics store, they may be able to special order one for you.

Joseph
 
steve68: I had posted a video before but I forget whether it was on this thread or one of the others. Here it is if not here. Click HERE to see the movie. You will need Quicktime viewer to see it though. The only alteration I have done was to replace the three-way internal output elbows for simple 90-degree outputs. These are at the center with one on each side allowing me to direct them to create more of a swirl effect within the contact chamber. I haven't noticed too much of a difference in foam production since but it has reduced the amount of accumulated, larger bubbles by keeping the mixture moving more and providing for less "dead" current areas. I recently upgraded my chiller to a 1/3 HP unit and subsequently needed to rearrange the location of the skimmer pump. I shot this photo after everything was complete and in its permanent location.

276_new_chiller.jpg


T Sandman: Thank you very much for the kind words. I too love the Jasper circle-cutting jig. Aside from having a full CNC router, it can't be beat. ;)

Joseph
 
I sure wish I lived in CA. I would love to come by and look at you whole set up. However I live across the entire country from you (30 miles from Atlantic) but if I am ever in the area can I stop in? :) I consider myself a semi-anal rententive perfectionist too. (Thats a compliment btw)
You ever thought about setting up a homepage about your tank?

:beer:

Jeff
 
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