A Few General Questions

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12958176#post12958176 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IslandCrow
Just to further clarify, a 50gpd RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis/Deionization) unit purifies about 50 gallons of water in a 24 hour period. I know for mine, that's a pretty concervative estimate. I can fill my 30gal container in around 8-9 hours.

Here are a couple links to the Tek unit. Reefgeek is my favorite, and they'll price match if you find it cheaper somewhere else. They also sell an ATI brand, which is supposed to be quite good, as well as retro kits if you want to build your own. Premium Aquatics also sells the other two units I mentioned:

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/Sunlight_Supply/
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SunlightT5

One additional note, Tek has started charging extra for the brackets to mount the light fixture on your tank (which I think is a foul), so don't forget to factor that into the price.

And yeah, I'm a B-1 Weapon System Operator, so I sit in the back and drop the bombs. I'm doing other things at the moment, but hopefully I'm hoping to get back into the cockpit soon.

hopefully you were one of the guys that helped my son in law out when he was on the highways of Kandahar:cool:
and brought him back safe to our family
 
Thanks again guys, I appreciate it.

Thats awsome about the B-1s IslandCrow! They became one of my favorite planes after seeing one in last years Oshkosh EAA Airventure. (I'm a pretty big aviation enthusiast.)
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to ask... With the 50 GPD RODI system, will the pure 50 gallons it will make come out all at once? Or do I have to leave the water running all day for it to make just 50 gallons?
 
You have to leave it running.

Typically you will have the filtration connected to a water supply (I use a tee off of the washing machine cold water line).

Water is forced through the filters. Approx 25% is push through the membrane and into a storage container (I use a Brute trash can). 75% is rejected as waste water - I currently have it draining into the washing machine drain, but may switch it to a drip system for some flower beds.
 
Urrg, thats going to take a long time...
Maybe I'll try to invest in a larger GPD system.

Thanks for the info

Matt
 
Also, I found this video online from practical fishkeeping on setting up a small saltwater aquarium. They said that they added phosban phosphate remover. Did they put it in the Tunze reefpack they installed? If so, can/will this eliminate the need for a Phosphate reactor?

Heres the video: http://youtube.com/watch?v=tmjP_td2qCE

Thanks
 
Urrg, thats going to take a long time...
Maybe I'll try to invest in a larger GPD system.

Just so you know, as long as you keep it in a covered container, you can keep the water for quite awhile. I just run my RO/DI on the weekends (and not even every weekend at that). I have a two 32 gal Brute trash cans. One holds purified water and the other holds salt water. I can easily fill them both over the weekend with a 50gpd system, and it lasts me at least 2-3 weeks with my 46 gal and 12 gal tanks. And that's with 10% weekly water changes and pretty high rates of evaporation on both tanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13003272#post13003272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dartmti
bump!
Can someone please answer my question in the post above IslandCrow's last post?

Thanks

Phosban is run in a phosban reactor . You can also use them to run carbon

IMG_4525.jpg
 
You can put it in the reefpack.

However, I think the phosban reactor is more efficent than running water through a filter bag. The reactor is about $40, so about the same cost. I have never used the reefpack so I can not say for sure if the reactor is better, but I prefer the reactor.
 
I always scoffed at reactors, but they really are designed to use the media to its highest efficiency. Between the two, I'd certainly recommend the reactor.
 
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