A General Guide to Salt Mixes

[Finsky]

Aquarium memory loss syndrome

Aquarium memory loss syndrome

I don't know the reason you turned off the pumps, but I had such trouble remembering to turn skimmers, etc, back on after feeding that I sprung for a countdown timer to do the job automatically. The Lab Safety units I used were programmable. At $80 or so, they weren't cheap but they did work.

I have been a victim of turning off my water pumps, protein skimmer, and power filter for feeding and the next day I wondered why my tank's water surface was so calm. I turned the power strip back on to which I have two 3,250 gph water pumps, a protein skimmer and one hang on power filter hooked up for easy turn off for feeding.

I also had two canisters and a second power filter which were left running.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Thanks for posting that info from the RC people, Finsky. I don't agree with it, but it's always good to hear other viewpoints.

 

[Billybeau1]

Many reefers who like to keep their alkalinity on the low side have had good results with Red Sea Coral Pro. The issue, many times, has been price. If you can get it on sale with low shipping costs you will probably like the results.

Again, salt mixes work better for some and not others because of husbandry and the type of livestock in the tank.

If you SEE better results with one particular mix, I would keep on using it. But just because it works for some, does not necessarily mean it will work better for others.

We are fortunate to have so many brands available to us with different parameters. You all just have to find what works for you and stick with it.

Searching for the best is human nature. Sometimes the best for one is not always the best for another when it comes to salt mixes.

I can only think of a few salt mixes on the market today that I would not recommend for anyone. But I'll leave names out of it.

 

[jaquesdp]

I have my own theory, I use a mixture of 3 salts,i know it can be expensive but it works for me, i use Deltec salt the one week then seachem the next then red sea pro the next,works well..

 

[Finsky]

Salt mixing and storage

Salt mixing and storage

Thanks for posting that info from the RC people, Finsky. I don't agree with it, but it's always good to hear other viewpoints.

Your are welcome. The ideas on this thread give me food for thought, i.e., salt mixing, storing, salt ingredient information, additives. I am really glad I found this thread.

I only dosed Kent Marine Essential Elements this past Wednesday and no Iodide or Strontium and Molybdenum. When I received my C-Balance and Red Sea Magnesium Test kit, I tested and found I may not need to use additives due to the Magnesium level in the tank, only water changes and C-Balance.

Today's readings:
Alkalinity - 11.2 dkh - no buffering last weekend
Calcium - 450 ppm
pH - 8.14
Magnesium - 1480 ppm - Essential Elements contains Magnesium

I brought home a 20 gallon Rubbermaid Brute and at 1:30 started mixing 12 gallons of water and my salt with a Hagen 802 power head (400 gph). I made a mark so I can use my Python to fill the Brute and drain the old water out of the tank without hoisting three buckets filled with four gallons each to and from the aquarium. And no more hand mixing salt water. I have decided to try and start my weekly mixing on Friday evenings which will give me the option to change water on Saturday or later.

I am going to let the power head run continuously until I use the replacement water. The salinity is at 35 ppt. I have the lid sitting on top of the container to lessen any possible evaporation.

I have a 32 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck "mixing container" now being used for storing aquarium "things". I can use this for 20% water changes if needed.
:spin1:

 

[Aquarist007]

Has this concept changed in the light of the new salt mixes that are out with much higher mag, calcium and alk levels in them?
I have been using B-ionics two part for three years now and have really not noticed any change in alk and cal levels. However with using the new IO my magnesium has also stabilized where before I had to supplement with epsom salts. I don't have any sps corals but I do have three clams and a leather that must take up 18 inches in space right now.
I let my water changes go for two months until I started noticing algae appearing on the glass etc so have gone back to weekly 10 per cent changes. That has corrected the algae problem and my guilt

"Water Changes
The one thing going for water changes is that it is hard to screw them up chemically (aside from salinity, pH and temperature). The bad thing is that it is impossible to replace more than a tiny amount of lost calcium and alkalinity to a tank in this way. If salt mixes were available with higher than natural seawater levels of calcium and carbonate alkalinity, then this system could be a good one for tanks with a very low demand for calcium and alkalinity. Unfortunately, most salt mixes do not fit that description, and so the best that one can typically attain using this method, regardless of the number or size of the water changes, is not quite as good as the starting salt mix, which themselves are often not as good as natural seawater. "
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm

 

[Finsky]

Supplements and water changes

Supplements and water changes

Has this concept changed in the light of the new salt mixes that are out with much higher mag, calcium and alk levels in them?
I have been using B-ionics two part for three years now and have really not noticed any change in alk and cal levels. However with using the new IO my magnesium has also stabilized where before I had to supplement with epsom salts.

"Water Changes
If salt mixes were available with higher than natural seawater levels of calcium and carbonate alkalinity, then this system could be a good one for tanks with a very low demand for calcium and alkalinity.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm

Hopefully, no more dosing of trace elements, vitamins, etc., only a two part dosing system recommended for me on this thread. I am glad I have gone in that direction with the C-Balance. I have saved capn_hylinur's email which contained information on two part system dosing working for three years without a need for anything other than Iron for your macro algae.

I have Kent Marine Magnesium and Essential Elements, Seachem Reef Complete, and Seachem Reef Buffer left sitting on the shelf from before the C-Balance came in the mail.

On the point of what salt ingredients, I could see myself switching to Instant Ocean for the reason Reef Chemist and the Georgia Aquarium use it. It is supposed to replicate natural sea water. I just wonder whether switching from Reef Crystals to Instant Ocean would cause any dangerous disruption in my aquarium's water balance or it any changes could be fixed with my two part dosing system.? If not, what would a safe time period and method be for switching?

I am real psyched about the two part system stabilzing my system along with water changes of aged return water of at least 24 hours!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Randy,

What are your thoughts on the new tropic marin salt BIO-ACTIF?


I personally don't think I want any organics in my seawater mix, and while Tropic Marin Pro doesn't appear to have them, the Bio-Actif does. I'm not sure I'd want them even if I knew what they were, but in the absence of Tropic Marin saying what they are, I'm sure I don't want them.

 

[Aquarist007]

Randy,

What are your thoughts on the new tropic marin salt BIO-ACTIF?


I personally don't think I want any organics in my seawater mix, and while Tropic Marin Pro doesn't appear to have them, the Bio-Actif does. I'm not sure I'd want them even if I knew what they were, but in the absence of Tropic Marin saying what they are, I'm sure I don't want them.

Hi Randy:
I was hoping you would comment on my recent post. In the light of new salt mixes containing higher then sea water values in ca, mg and alk are frequent water changes detrimental to the levels we are trying to acheive using two part?

 

[rigleautomotive]

I just tested a new bucket of red sea coral pro and they either changed something or I have a bucket with higher then average alk


55 gallons batch

sg at 1.026 freshly calibrated refractometer(pinpoint salinity calibration fluid)
alk @ 11.2 tested 3 times with salifert and confirmed with ATI test
cal 420 tested with salifert
mg 1300 tested with salifert

this is a bit higher then the last few buckets on the alk

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I was hoping you would comment on my recent post. In the light of new salt mixes containing higher then sea water values in ca, mg and alk are frequent water changes detrimental to the levels we are trying to achieve using two part?

If the levels of calcium and magnesium are higher than you want to maintain, then yes, it can be an annoyance.

Alkalinity is not very important in that respect, IMO, as we add a large amount each day relative to what might come from a water change.

For example, if a salt mix at 520 ppm calcium had an alkalinity level to allow consumption of all of that calcium by corals, down to NSW levels of calcium, you'd need the alkalinity to be 21 dKH. None are ever that high.

 

[Finsky]

I did a 12 gallon 10% water change using Reef Crystals today at 3:30 pm.

Starting at 1:30 pm yesterday, I let the replacement water circulate for 26 hours at room temperature to a salinity of 35 ppt with a 400 gph power head.

My tank's pH was 8.08 before the change and is now 7.88 after the change at 4:30 pm with the lights on.

I thought I heard letting water age for at least 24 hours would "stabilize" the pH?

Obviously, letting the water stand for at least 24 hours does not effect the pH?

I wonder what it does do?

The pH will probably go back up a day or two after the water change if it follows what it has done with prior water changes?

I did like having a power head do the mixing as well as pumping the replacement water into the tank compared to working up a sweat by hand mixing.

 

[Aquarist007]

I did a 12 gallon 10% water change using Reef Crystals today at 3:30 pm.

Starting at 1:30 pm yesterday, I let the replacement water circulate for 26 hours at room temperature to a salinity of 35 ppt with a 400 gph power head.

My tank's pH was 8.08 before the change and is now 7.88 after the change at 4:30 pm with the lights on.

I thought I heard letting water age for at least 24 hours would "stabilize" the pH?

Obviously, letting the water stand for at least 24 hours does not effect the pH?

I wonder what it does do?

The pH will probably go back up a day or two after the water change if it follows what it has done with prior water changes?

I did like having a power head do the mixing as well as pumping the replacement water into the tank compared to working up a sweat by hand mixing.

I believe mixing the salt 24 hours prior allows you not to overshoot the salinity level easily done by rapid mixing just before you use it.

I also don't believe a 12 gal water change in a 120 gal tank is going to lower your pH that much. pH is easily affected by higher levels of carbon dioxide in and around the tank. Did you have company over in the last 24 hours by any chance?

 

[Finsky]

Reef Crystals versus Seachem Reef Salt

Reef Crystals versus Seachem Reef Salt

No changes, just myself and wife, with and all doors and windows closed with the outside temperatures over the last week ranging from 4 degrees to 32 today although I do not remember not getting this pH swing for as far back as I can remember.

This is the exact pH swing I have been getting for as long as I can remember. Mixing water has a starting point of 7 pH and the salt should bring that up and to make the entire tank's pH go down .2???????????

I have the Pinpoint pH Monitor reading 8.08 Sunday with the lights on and then I siphoned out 12 gallons and pumped the 12 gallons of Reef Crystals replacement water which was circulated for 26 hours before being used on Sunday?

This has been going on for a long time and I am mystified because I know the Pinpoint pH Monitor is correct and I can see the .2 drop in real time in front of my eyes.

 

[bertoni]

Some salt products mix up to a pH that's fairly high, and aeration can help bring it back down. I don't know why the pH is dropping when the water change is done. Lower pH means more carbon dioxide in the water, somehow, or a measurement issue.

 

[Finsky]

Emailed Instant Ocean

Emailed Instant Ocean

I am not hallucinating and I see the Pinpoint pH Monitor going down from 8.08 to 7.8 in the time it takes for the water change?????

It has been doing this as far back as I can remember and was why I started buffering with Seachem Reef Buffer which I stopped two weeks ago. Even with the buffer the pH would drop with the water change?

I have contacted Instant Ocean to see what they say?

 

[Finsky]

Measurement

Measurement

Some salt products mix up to a pH that's fairly high, and aeration can help bring it back down. I don't know why the pH is dropping when the water change is done. Lower pH means more carbon dioxide in the water, somehow, or a measurement issue.

I will check the calibration of the Pinpoint pH Monitor although one would think if it was off to begin with it would be off the same amount after the water change,i.e., starting at 8.4 and ending up with 8.2?

On hypothesis could be the actual mintor is incorrect although I calibrated it two weeks ago?

 

[Finsky]

pH level

pH level

I had the 20 gallon container with a 400 gph powerhead swirling the water around for 26 hours before the water change. I would think this strong water movement all through the water and its surface would keep the oxygen levels up?

I just looked at my Pinpoint pH Monitor and the pH is now at 7.94 which is a rise of .06 since the water change four hours ago. This seems to follow the pattern I have been experiencing. It dropped .2 with the water change and now has risen .06 in four hours? I say again, I have emailed Instant Ocean as this is really starting to bug me and I have two and a half 200 gallon boxes of Reef Crystals to go through if I wanted or needed to change to Seachem Reef Salt.:spin2:

 

[Aquarist007]

do you keep your pH probe in the display tank system all the time--if so you can run into inaccuracies with it over time. How long ago since you changed your probe?
This is one draw back with constant measuring the pH electronically---the pH fluctuates at different times (I don't mean the noctural shift) which is a normal thing and does not affect anything. One should be concerned more with the high and low points over a day or week rather then a min by min monitoring of it.
Using two part is a great way to stabilize your tanks chemistry and it indirectly stabilizes the pH unless there is a sudden influx of carbon dioxide for some reason like a xmas party

 

[Finsky]

I just purchased this Pinpoint Monitor about two months ago and they say to replace the probe every 18 months. If I didn't say, I re-calibrated it two weeks ago and I just ordered a Pinpoint Salinity Monitor on sale from Drs. Foster and Smith. I will stay with the Red Sea Pro Calcium kit, Red Sea Alkalinity kit/Instant Ocean Alkalinity Kit, and Red Sea Magnesium kit. The Pinpoint Calcium Monitor is too rich for my blood.

My pH is doing its regular thing after a Reef Crystal water changes going from what I believe is an accurate 8.08 reading to a 7.88 reading after the water change at 3:30 pm Sunday. Now, at 9:00 pm Sunday the reading is 7.98.

With the lights out tomorrow morning, I would not be surprised to see a reading back up as high as 8.08 or higher and a reading on Tuesday as high as 8.20 to 8.26 which is what seems to be the routine of my tank's pH and I am adamant this pH swing is not Pinpoint pH Monitor related. I do keep it in the tank constantly like it was designed to be used and I have not noticed any major unexplained shifts like this water change swing. The pH did decrease slowly over time this past week from 8.20ish to 8.08 when I did this weeks water change on Sunday which was a normal decrease from what I fed the fish and corals last week.

I had a thought of trying to replace my 7 pH replacement tap water with distilled or maybe RO water if I can buy 12 gallons of RO water from the Wal-Mart or a local grocery store to test and see if there is some odd chemical in the tap water causing this phenomenon. I know the tap water has zero nitrates and phosphates?

I just received my C-Balance two part system and am waiting for my alkalinity to lower to 7dkh before using Part B which could stabilize the pH?