A General Guide to Salt Mixes
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
. I hope not to confuse anyone.
Finsky
New member
I have used Reef Crystals for the last three years in a four year old five foot 120 gallon mixed reef tank. The first year I used Instant Ocean.
I pour 12 gallons of water in a Rubbermaid Brute and then insert two Hagen powerheads, one 400 gph and the other 270 gph. I then take a 1/2 cup size measuring cup and pour fifteen of these in the swirling water for a total salt quantity of 7 1/2 cups of Reef Crystals. I put the lid on and wait until Saturday or Sunday to give the salt at least one day to mix. I have never had a problem with any mixing with Reef Crystals although I do not mix and store for more than three of four days.
I siphon out four gallons into each of three salt buckets and use the 400 gph powerhead to pump the replacement water back into the aquarium. I wipe out the inside of the Rubbermaid Brute with a white towel and do not see any quantifiable gook or discoloration on the towels.
One thing I think I may have noticed in the past was mixing for over seven days or longer could possibly lead to some residue on the bottom of the mixing container although I again cannot rember any quantifiable residue on my cleaning towels?
I think Reef Crystals is probably the best reef salt on the market for people like me who have to use tap water. Like I said before, I have used Reef Crystals for three years and nobody has complained in my tank.
I cannot think of a another "reef" salt with a chelator I would trust and I do not know if I need a "chelator" with my tap water or Instant Ocean would work just fine?
Is there anybody out there who thinks I would benefit by switching to Instant Ocean as I am on my last 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals and I am told I should use the following steps if I am going to switch to a different salt?
"For the 1st water change, use 90% of the old salt mix and 10% of the new salt mix. Everytime you do a water change, increase the amount of new salt by 10%. So the second water change would be 80% old salt mix and 20% of the new salt mix."
How do you do the math if you are going to switch and do not want to throw out a half of a 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals?
I pour 12 gallons of water in a Rubbermaid Brute and then insert two Hagen powerheads, one 400 gph and the other 270 gph. I then take a 1/2 cup size measuring cup and pour fifteen of these in the swirling water for a total salt quantity of 7 1/2 cups of Reef Crystals. I put the lid on and wait until Saturday or Sunday to give the salt at least one day to mix. I have never had a problem with any mixing with Reef Crystals although I do not mix and store for more than three of four days.
I siphon out four gallons into each of three salt buckets and use the 400 gph powerhead to pump the replacement water back into the aquarium. I wipe out the inside of the Rubbermaid Brute with a white towel and do not see any quantifiable gook or discoloration on the towels.
One thing I think I may have noticed in the past was mixing for over seven days or longer could possibly lead to some residue on the bottom of the mixing container although I again cannot rember any quantifiable residue on my cleaning towels?
I think Reef Crystals is probably the best reef salt on the market for people like me who have to use tap water. Like I said before, I have used Reef Crystals for three years and nobody has complained in my tank.
I cannot think of a another "reef" salt with a chelator I would trust and I do not know if I need a "chelator" with my tap water or Instant Ocean would work just fine?
Is there anybody out there who thinks I would benefit by switching to Instant Ocean as I am on my last 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals and I am told I should use the following steps if I am going to switch to a different salt?
"For the 1st water change, use 90% of the old salt mix and 10% of the new salt mix. Everytime you do a water change, increase the amount of new salt by 10%. So the second water change would be 80% old salt mix and 20% of the new salt mix."
How do you do the math if you are going to switch and do not want to throw out a half of a 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals?
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Finsky
New member
I dosed three capfuls of a two liter bottle of Seachem Reef Complete(one capful per 40 gallons raises calcium 10 ppm) last night after measuring the calcium level to be 370 ppm.
I used a Red Sea Pro Calcium test kit which seems to have worked for me since I started the tank. I recently bought three new Red Sea Pro calcium test kits along with Red Sea Pro Alkalinity, Nitrate, Phosphate, and Magnesium. I think the calcium test kit is quite accurate from my experience barring a $240 electronic Pinpoint calcium monitor(about the same price for a nitrate monitor). So far I have drawn the line at a Pinpoint pH monitor and a Pinpoint Salinity Monitor as far as electronic parameter measuring devices.
Tonight I measured the calcium after 24 hours and got a reading of 385 ppm.
Now I am wondering with at least three to four inches of crushed coral substrate(small areas filled between some live rock even higher to support a large five inch lavendar with fuzzy peach polyp encrusting moutain shaped montiopora sps coral on the right end) along with 150 lbs of live rock in my five foot 120 gallon tank is leaving room for just 80 gallons of water????????
Am I performing 15% weekly water changes with my 12 gallons weekly changes? Should I move back to 8 gallon water changes which might be more close to 10% weekly changes?
I am still thinking about the Reef Crystals with chelators and Instant Ocean.
I used a Red Sea Pro Calcium test kit which seems to have worked for me since I started the tank. I recently bought three new Red Sea Pro calcium test kits along with Red Sea Pro Alkalinity, Nitrate, Phosphate, and Magnesium. I think the calcium test kit is quite accurate from my experience barring a $240 electronic Pinpoint calcium monitor(about the same price for a nitrate monitor). So far I have drawn the line at a Pinpoint pH monitor and a Pinpoint Salinity Monitor as far as electronic parameter measuring devices.
Tonight I measured the calcium after 24 hours and got a reading of 385 ppm.
Now I am wondering with at least three to four inches of crushed coral substrate(small areas filled between some live rock even higher to support a large five inch lavendar with fuzzy peach polyp encrusting moutain shaped montiopora sps coral on the right end) along with 150 lbs of live rock in my five foot 120 gallon tank is leaving room for just 80 gallons of water????????
Am I performing 15% weekly water changes with my 12 gallons weekly changes? Should I move back to 8 gallon water changes which might be more close to 10% weekly changes?
I am still thinking about the Reef Crystals with chelators and Instant Ocean.
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polyp02
New member
I guess almost everyone is using Instant Ocean brand. Have any of you had experience w/ Marine Environment(ME) brand salt. According to a printout comparing all salts, ME has almost all of the naturally occuring elements found in ocean water which other brands lack and or put in artificially. So have any of you used this brand and if so what has been your experience with it or is IO just as good cus it is what I'm currently using but thinking of switching to ME.
Here is link to a site which sells it, if any of you are interested on what they say about other salt mixes.
http://northcoastpets.com/marine_environment_salt.htm
Here is link to a site which sells it, if any of you are interested on what they say about other salt mixes.
http://northcoastpets.com/marine_environment_salt.htm
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Finsky
New member
How are you going to measure alkalinity with the borate issue
How are you going to measure alkalinity with the borate issue
Randy "Reef Chemist" has very thorough scientific descriptions of the inability to rely only on regular carbonate alkalinity tests when using Seachem Salt due to borate added to buffer. He also discusses borate issues on health of reef tank inhabitants.
I think there are links in this thread. I have emailed Seachem to see what they have to say about the alkalinity testing.
I wonder whether using Instant Ocean will give me better results than Reef Crystals when I am using tap water or do I actually need the chelator?
I can always add my own buffers, supplements, etc.
How are you going to measure alkalinity with the borate issue
Randy "Reef Chemist" has very thorough scientific descriptions of the inability to rely only on regular carbonate alkalinity tests when using Seachem Salt due to borate added to buffer. He also discusses borate issues on health of reef tank inhabitants.
I think there are links in this thread. I have emailed Seachem to see what they have to say about the alkalinity testing.
I wonder whether using Instant Ocean will give me better results than Reef Crystals when I am using tap water or do I actually need the chelator?
I can always add my own buffers, supplements, etc.
Finsky
New member
Reef Crystals
Reef Crystals
I just received a 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals as I was down to half a box and this week I used 12 1/2 cups for 20 gallons of water to make it 35ppt/53.0mS/1.0264SG. I decided one of my two red rose bubble tips has reached two years of age and the other four have been doing well along with corals and fish so why change what's working.
Today I rinsed out my two Rena XP4 canisters for their monthly cleaning and performed a total water change of 20 gallons instead of my routine weekly 12 gallon 10% water changes and I am wondering whether there is any information on what the parameters are for water mixed with Reef Crystals to 35ppt, especially calcium levels.
Reef Crystals
I just received a 200 gallon box of Reef Crystals as I was down to half a box and this week I used 12 1/2 cups for 20 gallons of water to make it 35ppt/53.0mS/1.0264SG. I decided one of my two red rose bubble tips has reached two years of age and the other four have been doing well along with corals and fish so why change what's working.
Today I rinsed out my two Rena XP4 canisters for their monthly cleaning and performed a total water change of 20 gallons instead of my routine weekly 12 gallon 10% water changes and I am wondering whether there is any information on what the parameters are for water mixed with Reef Crystals to 35ppt, especially calcium levels.
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This thread has data on a fair number of salt products:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1714505
Reef Crytstals should be about 490 ppm Ca, 13 dKH, and 1440 ppm Mg.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1714505
Reef Crytstals should be about 490 ppm Ca, 13 dKH, and 1440 ppm Mg.
Rich123
New member
Quick question for the salt sages. I currently use Red Sea Pro. I really do like the way it mixes and I've never had an issue before with it. My tank currently is softies mainly, and one LPS (open brain). I'm starting to move more into the LPS and SPS and was wondering if there is a better salt mix for this. The Red Sea Pro has low alk (always around 7dkh) which was fine for my softies. I dont want to have to does alk to my change water all the time.
Question is: Is there a good salt mix (at least as good as Red Sea Pro) with alk around the 10 dkh mark?
Question is: Is there a good salt mix (at least as good as Red Sea Pro) with alk around the 10 dkh mark?
TheFishMan65
New member
How do I prevent salf from caking?
How do I prevent salf from caking?
I realize I am a little of topic, but I could not find a thread on the subject. If there is one please point me at it (I promise to read it).
How do you keep the salt from hardening. I am having real trouble with the humidity this year, so I was wondering if there is a preferred method to keep the salt from caking (is that the right term?).
My two ideas are to use some silca gel dessicant or put some rice in the bucket with the salt.
Thanks in advance
How do I prevent salf from caking?
I realize I am a little of topic, but I could not find a thread on the subject. If there is one please point me at it (I promise to read it).
How do you keep the salt from hardening. I am having real trouble with the humidity this year, so I was wondering if there is a preferred method to keep the salt from caking (is that the right term?).
My two ideas are to use some silca gel dessicant or put some rice in the bucket with the salt.
Thanks in advance
SCIFI_3D_zoo
New member
I noticed the first post of this thread with the chart is gone now. I used this long time ago to make a brand decision and now I have a big problem I never noticed before.
I have a bunch of bags of the Coralife salt mix. I started using it long time ago b/c of it's really high Ca/Mg values. Problem is I just noticed... the ALK of it is 11-12 dKh... with a SG of 1.026. Now I know why. The bag says the proper marine reef SG is 1.021-1.023. My tank has an ALK of about 8 dKh normally. So now I gotta run around here and find something to tell me how to drop it. I haven't had to do that in a long time.
I think I have read a lot of TOTM in there with SG values in that low range. I can't believe I just now noticed this. The bag has all this info on it... all but the ALK of it. If it was 9 dKh I figured I wouldn't have to worry about it??? But this is too high.
It's 3-4 dKh higher than my tank.. and it's 30% wtr chg. So... only a 1/3 of the diff. would take effect... say 1 dKh. So it should go higher than up to 9 dKh. I looked at Randy's article and he suggested not doing anything either. Letting it correct itself. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm But certainly this is NOT good for my ALK to go up and down like this every time I do a water change.
I have a bunch of bags of the Coralife salt mix. I started using it long time ago b/c of it's really high Ca/Mg values. Problem is I just noticed... the ALK of it is 11-12 dKh... with a SG of 1.026. Now I know why. The bag says the proper marine reef SG is 1.021-1.023. My tank has an ALK of about 8 dKh normally. So now I gotta run around here and find something to tell me how to drop it. I haven't had to do that in a long time.
I think I have read a lot of TOTM in there with SG values in that low range. I can't believe I just now noticed this. The bag has all this info on it... all but the ALK of it. If it was 9 dKh I figured I wouldn't have to worry about it??? But this is too high.
It's 3-4 dKh higher than my tank.. and it's 30% wtr chg. So... only a 1/3 of the diff. would take effect... say 1 dKh. So it should go higher than up to 9 dKh. I looked at Randy's article and he suggested not doing anything either. Letting it correct itself. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm But certainly this is NOT good for my ALK to go up and down like this every time I do a water change.
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TheFishMan65
New member
See the link in post 1172.
SCIFI_3D_zoo
New member
Oh wow... there's the info right there. THanks. Interesting there are quite a # of salts with really high ALK. Even my salt has 9 dKH at 1.0265... so either he made an error there or I did or my mix is not higher ALK just b/c my bag talks about it being calibrated at 1.021-1.023.
SCIFI_3D_zoo
New member
I figured that's what it was... silica. What do you think about the #'s on the Coralife? You think maybe you made a mistake? I have mixed this before and it's always been 11-12 dKh.. IF I go to my salinity. Maybe you did the SG according to specs but didn't note that correctly. It says right on the packaging the proper SG is those lower #'s. I'm just wondering... how many people use that salinity? I use Randy's parameters too.
I feel more comfortable messing with the higher ALK than a lower SG. It ended up going up 1 dKh... mixing 30% 11-12 dKh ..with my tank at 8 dKh. Not that big of a deal but I worried about putting it all that water at such a high ALK at first. I'd rather not do it every month so I might switch to another brand.
I feel more comfortable messing with the higher ALK than a lower SG. It ended up going up 1 dKh... mixing 30% 11-12 dKh ..with my tank at 8 dKh. Not that big of a deal but I worried about putting it all that water at such a high ALK at first. I'd rather not do it every month so I might switch to another brand.
