A General Guide to Salt Mixes

I ended up going back to Reef Crystals after a couple of buckets of Seachem Reefsalt just because the Crystals are cheaper and the Seachem levels still require adjustment anyhow (I tested a fresh batch and posted the results a month or two ago, v. high Ca, low alk.) Since I am going to have to make adjustments, I might as well go with one of the cheaper brands. I used Reef Crystals for the opposite reason as Randy, I opted to get the trace minerals and vitamins is all.

As a bonus, IO & Reef Crystals are now sold in 200g boxes for cheaper than the bucket that is 160g (see drs f&s). This hobby is expensive enough without $100 buckets of salt!

-A
 
Do they give out nicer tee shirts or towels with the $100 buckets than some of the lower priced salts do?
 
I'm starting a 120 tottal gallon system this month, this system will be started from scratch I think ima do it for two buckets roughly two maybe three months and see how it holds up.
 
I have no experience with Red Sea Coral Pro although their ad on Dr. F & S Web site says:

"The Coral Pro salt mix has been formulated specifically for use with reverse osmosis or soft tap water and contains the elevated levels of calcium and buffer capacity necessary for vibrant coral growth. For best results, test the water's chemical parameters regularly and perform water changes as required."

Instant Ocean says:

"Instant Ocean synthetic sea salt simulates natural seawater for thriving marine aquariums. Developed through sophisticated biological and chemical testing, Instant Ocean provides your marine fish, invertebrates, and plants the necessary major, minor, and trace elements. Exceptional solubility, uniform particle size, and superior material selection made Instant Ocean the standard by which other synthetic sea salts are measured. No other product has such an extensive history of successful proven usage."

I have contacted Instant Ocean concerning a possible switch from three years of RC after an initial year with IO for my five foot 120 reef with 150 lbs of live rock, five anemones, four brain corals, two montioporas, three gonioporas, and a few fish like a Regal Angel and a Fu Manchu Dwarf Lionfish. I like the idea of control over what "extras" are added to my water which leans towards IO.
 
I have the following parameters and I am wondering whether the tap water is raising my nitrates relative to my phosphates?

I started using Dr. F & S PhosPure and Pura PhosLock over the last six months.

Calcium 450 ppm
Alkalinity 14 dkh
Magnesium 1350
pH 8.1 to 8.4
Ammonia: zero
Nitrite: zero
Nitrate: 5-10 ppm
Phosphate: .2 ppm
 
Instant Ocean Answer

Hello,
I have to admit your question is not an easy one. So, I asked for help on your email. Here is the answer I received. I totally am going to switch to Reef Crystals after reading this but did this answer your
question:

Rosemary,

ReefCrystals has had minimal amounts of chelator since inception in the late 1980's and hobbyist and coral farmers have proven success.

The question below is in reference to trace elements and this will not affect at those levels, plus it is targeted to positive charged elements like copper and iron. Iodine is an anion, negative charge.

The formula for ReefCrystals has the chelator as a safety device since some tap or well water can have lethal amounts of copper and iron (to inverts). I have even seen some tanks with lava rock which can leach heavy metals, thus the added safety is a big benefit.

I highly recommend RC and have seen the best results with inverts, it is a very proven formula.


Just let me know.
Best regards,
Rosemary Hartmann
Consumer Relations
 
Reef Crystal description from Dr. F & S:

"Enriched Reef Crystals Reef Salt is formulated especially for reef aquariums. Contains extra calcium, select trace elements, and vitamins above natural seawater concentrations. These extra measures reduce the need for constant supplements and additives to replenish essential substances quickly depleted in thriving reef aquariums. Reef Crystals also contains special additives to help detoxify excess heavy metals, such as copper, and is fully compatible with all marine aquariums.
 
Follow up on HIGH alk in RSCP

Follow up on HIGH alk in RSCP

I got quite strange results when testing my Red Sea Coral Pro, Ca 480 ppm, Mg 1320 ppm and KH 14° at 35 psu. Calcium and magnesium was tested with Salifert kits, KH with a Fauna Marin kit and salinity with a refractometer. The KH test was repeated, twice, with a thorough reading of the instructions in between.

Any thoughts?

I have now redone all tests, this time with a new Salifert Alkalinity test. I was aiming for 35 psu as usual but apparently added a bit too much salt so all readings are done with a salinity of 36 psu. Ca 465 ppm, Mg 1350 ppm and KH 14,7°.

Now I'm convinced that the results are in the correct range, that my KH is about twice the expected. My question then is whether it will be in that throughout the entire bucket or if it will get really low in the bottom of the bucket?

Now that I've reached the bottom I can confirm that my bucket really was consistently over 14° KH. I have no idea if its just my bucket, the entire batch or anything in between. I just now that I won't buy it again, if the alkalinity is that far off, what else that I can't measure for is off by a lot too.
 
From the Red Sea website describing their Pro salt mix:

http://www.redseafish.com/Prod283.asp

"contains the elevated levels of calcium and buffer capacity that provide the extended availability of these elements"

It sounds to me from the above statement, that Red Sea may have jumped on the band wagon with high alk and high calcium levels.
 
that may be the case but if you follow that link and click download user manual it still claims that the alkalinity to be 2.2-2.5 (or in degrees 6.1-7) and so is the label on the bucket.
 
FWIW, with the info you posted, I would call the manufacturer and see what they have to say. We do get posts from all the different salt mixes occationally where there is a bad batch. :(
 
I've just bought a small bag of Instant Ocean and mixed up 25 liters a few days ago, the salt was quite lumpy and there is still some undissolved salt in the bottom of the bucket (I guess ~1-2% of total added amount). The results from testing the water is 35PSU, ~6°dKH, Ca 320ppm and Mg ~1100ppm.

Is this the old formula or has this bag just gone bad? Is it safe to use if I just adjust the levels or is there a serious risk that other parameters is way too low as well.
 
mano84, if the sand was a bit wet when you placed it in the container it may have caused some calcium carbonate to precipitate. This is noticeable if there is still undissolved "salt" at the bottom of the container.
 
I guess that the "sand" should have been "salt" and that is my theory as well. The only problem is that the bag was unopened, can it still be "wet"? If so should I tolerate that or try to return it to the store?
 
I am wondering whether I should just continue to use Reef Crystals with "chelators?" and Seachem Reef Buffer without borate because I have to use Olympia city water from the Nisqually Basin. I have used Reef Crystals for the last three years of my four year old tank. The first year I used Instant Ocean.

I have a difficult time understanding how one would measure alkalinity using a Red Sea Pro Alkalinity test kit with Seachem Reef Salt???? Is it possible? It appears Seachem Reef Salt is made for RO water as it does not remove heavy metals of my tap water?

"Reef Crystals. Reef Crystals is a specially formulated
synthetic sea salt made by Instant Ocean for use in aquaria
with soft and hard corals. It has all the features and benefits
of Instant Ocean with added calcium, some vitamins and trace
elements. It also contains a special additive to detoxify heavy
metals such as copper." This is from the Instant Ocean Web site.

From Seachem:

"In our Reef Salt, we do something a little bit different than other manufacturer's with regard to alkalinity. We elevate our levels of borate in order to allow for one to keep a more stable pH. You see, while there is a misconception in this hobby that the only buffers present in saltwater are carbonates, this is simply not true. There are other elements in saltwater that provide buffering capabilities and sometimes these other elements actually do a better job of it than carbonates, as is the case with borate. So, we have always added a little extra borate in our Reef Salt in order to prevent pH fluctuation. What this means to you is that your hobbyist grade test kit cannot distinguish between carbonate and borate alkalinity, it will measure both as a total alkalinity. From my experience using Reef Salt, the borate alkalinity generally ranges at about 1meq/L (converts to 2.8 dkH). We actually make a test kit that measure these two parts of alkalinity separately so you can know exactly where your numbers are. If interested, here is a link to this kit which also includes a magnesium test kit:

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/RS_Magnesium.html

We do not include metal chelators or dechlorinators to our salt. We recommend using RO water if possible when having a saltwater tank.

2. Reef buffer does not contain borate. I believe I addressed the testing procedure with borate above."
 
Has Reef Crystals formula changed?

Has Reef Crystals formula changed?

I have been using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and been very satisfied with the performance. Recently, I purchased some bags from a new shop and noticed that the packaging changed.
Old packaging states:
- Instant Ocean, Reef Crystals.
New packaging:
- Reef Crystals, From the creators on Instant Ocean

The new salt seems very different from the old one. There is a slight blueish colour and it seems a little humid. Also, it does not disolve as well as the old salt when mixed in water and leaves some type of brownish residue in the mixing container.
It definitely does not seem as good as the old salt. I have not tested the parameters, but will do so next batch I prepare.
Has anyone else noticed these changes?
I'm wandering if Instant Ocean have changed their formula, or changed their sub-supplier (not sure they make the salt themselves), or even if this is fake salt (I heard stories of that happening here in China).
 
I've also noticed a brownish residue in the mixing container as well (using Reef Crystals). I just switched to the regular IO mix and will have to see the results with the first few mixes/changes.
 
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