russ49merc
New member
amazing
A Golden Reef Tank (v2)
- Thread starter halmus
- Start date
halmus
New member
"Very IMPRESSIVE! In awe of how thought out every part of your build is.
Do you mind providing link for the metal brackets you used to mount acrylic box above? And the shelving you used through out fishroom? Current shelving I have is starting to rust and needs to be replaced.
Look forward to following along with your tanks journey"
Thank you!
Here is a link to the shelving I bought:
https://www.grainger.com/product/EDSAL-Bulk-Storage-Rack-Starter-10Z437?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
I bought the base rack system as you see in the link. I built custom Formica shelves for them rather than what the manufacturer would provide. I then attached aluminum angle pieces to bond the shelf to the metal brackets. The racks are still metal, so there's no guarantee against rust over time. They're a thicker gauge metal than you would pick up at a local box store.
Here is a link to the aluminum strut:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Slotted-Standard-1-5-8-x-13-45YV89
Do you mind providing link for the metal brackets you used to mount acrylic box above? And the shelving you used through out fishroom? Current shelving I have is starting to rust and needs to be replaced.
Look forward to following along with your tanks journey"
Thank you!
Here is a link to the shelving I bought:
https://www.grainger.com/product/EDSAL-Bulk-Storage-Rack-Starter-10Z437?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
I bought the base rack system as you see in the link. I built custom Formica shelves for them rather than what the manufacturer would provide. I then attached aluminum angle pieces to bond the shelf to the metal brackets. The racks are still metal, so there's no guarantee against rust over time. They're a thicker gauge metal than you would pick up at a local box store.
Here is a link to the aluminum strut:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Slotted-Standard-1-5-8-x-13-45YV89
halmus
New member
Thanks Dave. I've learned some new skills on this project. The Fibergrating is incredible for strength and functionality. It's a bit tricky and dirty to machine to size. Thanks for following.
halmus
New member
Thanks Merc.
karimwassef
Active member
Beautiful.
Where did you get your fibergrate?
Where did you get your fibergrate?
halmus
New member
A Golden Reef Tank (v2)
Grainger. My new favorite toy store.
I just wish they had an actual store I could roam around in. Unfortunately, half the stuff I need I to have to order an then wait for it to come in from across the country. I only get to see the front counter and/or a website.
karimwassef said:
Grainger. My new favorite toy store.
I just wish they had an actual store I could roam around in. Unfortunately, half the stuff I need I to have to order an then wait for it to come in from across the country. I only get to see the front counter and/or a website.
Last edited:
MarylandTang
New member
There just aren't words to describe this build... :dance:
McPuff
New member
This is certainly the most detailed build I have seen yet.
The rock work looks really good. It should provide a nice feel for the actual depth of the tank and you've also done a good job of utilizing the height of the tank without going too high... the corals will bridge that gap for you!
Will be exciting to see the stocking and progression of the display itself. The support room is crazy good!
The rock work looks really good. It should provide a nice feel for the actual depth of the tank and you've also done a good job of utilizing the height of the tank without going too high... the corals will bridge that gap for you!
Will be exciting to see the stocking and progression of the display itself. The support room is crazy good!
halmus
New member
After two months of running water with the skimmer and massive water changes, I finally added activated carbon and GFO.
I don't know if this image will attach, but this is the immediate result to ORP and ph. I'm not chasing ORP values, but I've never seen such a dramatic correlation between those products and ph. Does anyone have any input or advice?
I don't know if this image will attach, but this is the immediate result to ORP and ph. I'm not chasing ORP values, but I've never seen such a dramatic correlation between those products and ph. Does anyone have any input or advice?
MarylandTang
New member
My ORP tended to go sequentially higher (often overnight while my pH is dropping) for the first few weeks before settling in.
I don't think either range is that vast, so the graph axis may give the impression that it is more dramatic than it actually is.
I don't think either range is that vast, so the graph axis may give the impression that it is more dramatic than it actually is.
karimwassef
Active member
The pH drop points to a likely excess CO2. What could be driving that?
For example- less food (P) for an algae scrubber reducing photosynthesis?
I'm not a fan of GFO myself. They should only be used as temporary measures in case of excess but not as a constantly running filter. They can reduce P which limits the photosynthetic algae from removing N... which can cause an imbalance, etc... just let nature remove both in balance.
For example- less food (P) for an algae scrubber reducing photosynthesis?
I'm not a fan of GFO myself. They should only be used as temporary measures in case of excess but not as a constantly running filter. They can reduce P which limits the photosynthetic algae from removing N... which can cause an imbalance, etc... just let nature remove both in balance.
halmus
New member
A Golden Reef Tank (v2)
Thanks for the feedback Karim and Tang.
Just to provide more context, I have no fish in the system, I'm only running lights over the refugium that has no algae or growing things other than a thin layer of diatoms that no doubt contribute something to the CO2 / O exchange. Or do they? I need to research diatoms. I'm not feeding anything, not even ghost feeding.
I have a few hundred pounds of BRS pukani in the system that is notorious for leaching phosphate and other crud (from what I've read).
I've been running water for two months now and have been doing 125 gal water changes almost every weekend. I'm trying to "œcook" the rock in tank while I'm heavily focused on just completing the system. Once I can dedicate the mental energy and time, I'll start cycling the tank. Right now, I just want to purge as much junk out of the rock. I'm not in a big hurry, but my reasoning is that if I add GFO and carbon, it will help remove impurities from the rock as well as any crud in the system as a result of the construction.
So, that brings me to the original question, what could cause the ph to drop .2 points? As MarylandTang pointed out, it's not a catastrophic drop but it is a clear reaction to adding carbon and/or GFO. I suspect the GFO. I've just never witnessed such a strong and dramatic correlation over an 8 hour period after two months of stability. I've been reading what I can online and I'm not surprised to see the inverse relationship between ph and ORP. I don't particularly care about ORP, just ph stability.
Thanks again for the input everyone! I'm glad I'm seeing this now because it gets my brain back into water chemistry and how little I know about it.
Thanks for the feedback Karim and Tang.
Just to provide more context, I have no fish in the system, I'm only running lights over the refugium that has no algae or growing things other than a thin layer of diatoms that no doubt contribute something to the CO2 / O exchange. Or do they? I need to research diatoms. I'm not feeding anything, not even ghost feeding.
I have a few hundred pounds of BRS pukani in the system that is notorious for leaching phosphate and other crud (from what I've read).
I've been running water for two months now and have been doing 125 gal water changes almost every weekend. I'm trying to "œcook" the rock in tank while I'm heavily focused on just completing the system. Once I can dedicate the mental energy and time, I'll start cycling the tank. Right now, I just want to purge as much junk out of the rock. I'm not in a big hurry, but my reasoning is that if I add GFO and carbon, it will help remove impurities from the rock as well as any crud in the system as a result of the construction.
So, that brings me to the original question, what could cause the ph to drop .2 points? As MarylandTang pointed out, it's not a catastrophic drop but it is a clear reaction to adding carbon and/or GFO. I suspect the GFO. I've just never witnessed such a strong and dramatic correlation over an 8 hour period after two months of stability. I've been reading what I can online and I'm not surprised to see the inverse relationship between ph and ORP. I don't particularly care about ORP, just ph stability.
Thanks again for the input everyone! I'm glad I'm seeing this now because it gets my brain back into water chemistry and how little I know about it.
karimwassef
Active member
You may not see them, but if you have light and inorganic nutrients, you have photosynthetic organisms. If you remove N or P or light, you'll see a drop in pH.
Personally, I would use this as an opportunity to cultivate your algae scrubber. Why waste the precious source of nutrients instead of allowing it to kickstart nature? Seed the scrubber and let it mature.
Personally, I would use this as an opportunity to cultivate your algae scrubber. Why waste the precious source of nutrients instead of allowing it to kickstart nature? Seed the scrubber and let it mature.
halmus
New member
Thanks Karim.
By scrubber are you referring to the refugium? I don't use a true algea turf scrubber on my tanks. I got turned off by the religion of "œSanta Montica" and vowed never to go down that path.
I don't doubt the benefit of the principle itself, it's just that the original presentation to the reefing community felt more like an infomercial hosted by Billy Mays.
By scrubber are you referring to the refugium? I don't use a true algea turf scrubber on my tanks. I got turned off by the religion of "œSanta Montica" and vowed never to go down that path.
I don't doubt the benefit of the principle itself, it's just that the original presentation to the reefing community felt more like an infomercial hosted by Billy Mays.
karimwassef
Active member
Turf or macro... same general biomass sequestration.
Turf just has the benefits of avoiding bacterial growth on macro that could retard coral growth rate. The air exchange makes it difficult for bacteria to thrive.
I'm a proponent of both algae and sponges as necessary biological filters. I'm personally not a fan of the traditional bacteria filtration. They'll always find their place in any ecosystem without much help.
Turf just has the benefits of avoiding bacterial growth on macro that could retard coral growth rate. The air exchange makes it difficult for bacteria to thrive.
I'm a proponent of both algae and sponges as necessary biological filters. I'm personally not a fan of the traditional bacteria filtration. They'll always find their place in any ecosystem without much help.
halmus
New member
A Golden Reef Tank (v2)
To be honest, even though I joke about turf scrubbers and Billy Mays, that would probably be a more effective solution than what I'm building as a refugium. What I'm building will realistically have a net-zero effect. While it will export nutrients through macro algae's, it will also collect detritus and a certain percentage of algae will get caught and decay in the sand and rock. It's not the ideal refugium where the algae tumbles freely and it's keep clean otherwise. I'm really just including that tank because I love the diversity of all aspects of the hobby. I will probably have pipe fish or seahorses in there over time.
I also tried to create a cave structure in there to grow sponges (kind of a cryptic zone). Again, just because it fascinates me.
Thanks again for your input and following Karim!
karimwassef said:
To be honest, even though I joke about turf scrubbers and Billy Mays, that would probably be a more effective solution than what I'm building as a refugium. What I'm building will realistically have a net-zero effect. While it will export nutrients through macro algae's, it will also collect detritus and a certain percentage of algae will get caught and decay in the sand and rock. It's not the ideal refugium where the algae tumbles freely and it's keep clean otherwise. I'm really just including that tank because I love the diversity of all aspects of the hobby. I will probably have pipe fish or seahorses in there over time.
I also tried to create a cave structure in there to grow sponges (kind of a cryptic zone). Again, just because it fascinates me.
Thanks again for your input and following Karim!
halmus
New member
xoomer said:
Thanks xoomer. I appreciate the compliments. My OCD has tried very hard to keep this build aesthetically pleasing and easy to maintain once complete.
Electronics on the hood is my priority next weekend. The first step is determining all of the inputs and outputs for the control system.
Inputs:
open/ close the hood through keychain wireless remote, Apex outputs?, physical switches on my "œIT" cabinet, physical switches inside the hood of the aquarium?
Variable target speed of hood movement
Outputs:
LCD screen displaying opening/closing state and speed?
Audible feedback letting me know it received an input command?
Feedback to Apex as to open or closed state?
I have a lot of work to do just figuring out how complex I want to make this. How complex does it really need to be? Just because I can run and monitor it through the Apex, do I really need to? I can't imagine a time I'll ever need to open my aquarium hood while sitting on a beach in Costa Rica.
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