A newbee with a nem Stichodactyla haddoni

Mudbeaver

New member


This is my second anemone and i was encorage to take that one because its was the least susceptible to go into my powerheads , as she's suppose to be more stable. I must say that she hasn't moved yet and i'm glad, because my first one a bubble tips whent right in my powerhead about an hour after i bought it years ago and i never wanted one after that, what a mess!!!.

This one is great but its retracts, or contracts, not sure of the term here is it normal . it expans a lot about 4 times its size and then suddenly will retract. i check if all my fish are there lol , but yes and She'll expand again, just wondering whats the stimuly.

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She's got a great view

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That cucumber is a bit to close to the letuce, lol

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She's got great curves

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So any thought o what makes her shrink like that

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What do you feed her and how often.Thanks for your time.



















 
Nice nem. I don't really have any advice. However its ways amusing when someone post about they're new purchase then ask the question what to feed it?
 
Wait until you know for sure that it is healthy. No deflating at all. Then you can feed him every other or third days. Small about 1 ccc each time. you can increase the amount if he torerate this feeding.
BTW, your anemone can be a S. gigantea instead of S. haddoni. Take a picture of the column under normal lighting. I am 85% sure that it is a Gigantea instead of Haddoni
 
Beautiful anemone! That may be a gigantea. Does it have purple spots under neath? Do you have cipro handy just in case? Not say that it doesn't look healthy. Be sure to keep an eye on it.
 
Beautiful anemone! That may be a gigantea. Does it have purple spots under neath? Do you have cipro handy just in case? Not say that it doesn't look healthy. Be sure to keep an eye on it.


Sorry but i don't understand what your saying, i was asking about feeding and what's Cipro ? purple spot underneath what, and where? You want me to flip it over? after all the trouble i had to settle her down . Not sure what your asking.I'm letting her be for now , she only retract occasionally and she seems happy .
 
We are trying to see the under side, not the foot. Even if it is just a flap. It will show what type it is.

Please do not disturb it.

LOL

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How far is it away from the SeaHorses? What is the flow like?
 
Haddoni
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Gigantea
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If your anemone have pastel color foot, and bright spots on his column near the top then he is a S. gigantea insead of a S. haddoni
 
If you look at that first pic I posted (of his) it looks kinda smooth with no visible color change.
 
Underside

Underside



Oh ok thats easy!

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She was stuck ther for a few hours so i had to help her out. So as Mr Saltwater said i massaged her foot and when i saw her relaxed i used a credit card like he did to slowly detach her from that glass bottom box to put her on the sand after which i shut down all pumps and the wavebox for the night, and put the box over her so she wouldn't drift like i was told too. The next morning she had anchored and was all expanded .

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Thats he view.

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The Picasso clowns left her soon after. so be it.

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I had left a trail of sand thinking she would follow Dahhhhhhh LOL, newbee lol.

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The seahorses are in a different tank all together. The 75 G refugium is higher feeding my reef tank .

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The refugium are where the seahorses are, on the right side, the left side is where i have my Angler.

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The 150 starfire Reef tank

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The nem is in the right corner behing the Tonga sculptures. The flow , she's right near a Tunze 6095 powerhead ,and the wavebox, both producing 2,642 USgal./h each . But at this time the flow rate of the circulation pump is at 60% , she's 9" under it and the wavebox , at full power has a pulse of 1.29 sec for a 1" wave at the other end of the 6 foot tank. She's not flipping around. The wave is smooth and regular.




 
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That anemone is a Gigantea. Start to so search on Gigantea. They need high light and stay on rock near the rock sand interface. It was thought that that they require high flow but maybe not.
They are poor shipper and often infected on arrival to LFS and to our tank and are doomed. They were the hardest anemone to get to our tank healthy. Recently, I and a few other reefer here tried to treat them with Ciprofloxacin, see the sticky thread on Ciprofloxacin treatment protocol. This have markedly improve survival of these anemones.
He is a beautiful anemone. Good luck with him. My advice would be get some ciprofloxacin on hand and gather stuff for a treatment tank. You will need a [b[good[/b] heater, spare tank, light, PH and some egg crate to separate the heater and PH from the anemone.
While he may not need treatment, If he does and you spend 4 days to gather the stuff you need, it will be too late.

Looks like you got plenty of equipments and this should not be hard for you. Get the medication ASAP.
 
Flow rate and measurements

Flow rate and measurements

For flow rate and to measure where i put stuff i find out using this method;

A short ribbon gives me a good sens of the flow

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A long ribbon gives me the direction and path of the flow.


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Each time you must turn your stick to see which current is predominent or your ribbon will stay in its original position and give you fasle reading. A turn of the stick forces the ribbon to realine itself to the new and actual current and give you accurate reading. Long ribbon also shows you also where the different currents and flow meet.

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So to position a fragile or demanding coral or invert do this at different heights , because it changes drastically because of obstical, namely your rockwork and aquascape, if you didn't think your scape matters with your flow think again. Dead spots can be created because of bad pump positioning, or aquascape. You may need 4 pumps if you have them in the wrong place, while you could get away with 3 or even 2 if they're place in a good and studied fashion, = less money spent on powerheads = less power spent = more money for fish etc.... making sense.​
 
I saw a nem that looked like this one this past weekend. At first glance I thought it was a gigantea based on the tentacles, but when I looked at the underside of the disc, it didn't have bright verrucae so I thought it was a haddoni. But I'm 99% sure it was a gigantea but on my gut reaction to it. Just goes to show that all gigs are a bit different.
 
Mudbeaver,
Your tank looks pretty new.
Why all these measuremtn. I just drop some flakes food mixed in tank water. I can just see the flow pattern just from feeding my fish.
 
Mudbeaver,
Your tank looks pretty new.
Why all these measuremtn. I just drop some flakes food mixed in tank water. I can just see the flow pattern just from feeding my fish.


I've saved myself 2 pumps with that method. And my local club uses this method and some member are putting some of their nice expensive Tunze and Eco's for sales now that they've found the correct placement for their powerheads,thanks to economy of the right placement, its perfectly logical. Find the dead spot play with your pumps till you get them all and save on pumps and electric bill, your choice. Buy one or 2 pumps at a time and not 5. Lots of cords to managed too, powerbars. I saved with a stick and a string.Doesn't it make sense.

 
It makes lots of sense. Flake food has shown me lots of flow related issues because it will fall and stop in the bad flow areas.

I usually start with one PH then add from there, once I know the layout of the tank I can sometimes set it up pretty good.

Right now I have two mp40 that face each other and actually create a vortex in the middle that can only be seen when the micro bubbles are in the tank.

Makes for a nice flow over coral/polyp and anemones.
 
Really comes down to each their own.

Both work. Flake food is a good indicator and it also feeds the fish lol.

Ribbon is also good and had me thinking about checking my flow.
 
Mudbeaver,
Your tank looks pretty new.
Why all these measuremtn. I just drop some flakes food mixed in tank water. I can just see the flow pattern just from feeding my fish.

It makes lots of sense. Flake food has shown me lots of flow related issues because it will fall and stop in the bad flow areas.

I usually start with one PH then add from there, once I know the layout of the tank I can sometimes set it up pretty good.

Right now I have two mp40 that face each other and actually create a vortex in the middle that can only be seen when the micro bubbles are in the tank.

Makes for a nice flow over coral/polyp and anemones.

Really comes down to each their own.

Both work. Flake food is a good indicator and it also feeds the fish lol.

Ribbon is also good and had me thinking about checking my flow.


I don't know guys flake foods are skin deep, your corals are inch if not feet deep sometimes, You've heard of undertown and under currents, in the oceans. I don't really see how flakes on the surface can give you any reading for the bottom where some or you corals are. And if you have a put a powerhead at mid tank that flow will of course change, mid tank and create like you said vortex, and counter currents, and turbulence. Your dead spots are not all on the surface, so whats your angle on the tests, useless , or practicle? It take a stick and a ribbon.
 
If you take the flake in a pinch, and put it under the water line FIRST before letting go, it will instantly sink and go into the water column.

Yes, putting it on top does not show anything and you have to wait for it to get wet and get past the tension on the surface.
 
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