A Reefaholic's 1000+ Gallon Mixed Reef System Build

david00061 said:
That's a lot plumbing
Click to expand...

I know...and I really don't enjoy doing plumbing! I guess plumbing my reef is different than plumbing a house project. I've just not ever done this much plumbing for a tank and I'm a bit intimidated. Going to take my time and take it one step at a time. Hopefully in 2 weeks its all got water running in it but sure I'll need something I don't have since I could not find the plumbing I needed locally.
 
SPotter said:
no way....I cant wait to see this all set up.
Click to expand...

Me neither. My wifes a nurse and works 12s Saturday/Sunday so I've got a lot of time this weekend to make some good progress. I'll be taking my time though so I don't go on a 12 hour streak plumbing and fatigued and not on top of my game.

Progress might be hindered if I'm able to make it to the Playboy Super Bowl Party this weekend as I'm first reserve if one of my buddies can't make it. Got the hookup at work but came out one short:headwally:
 
I'd like my system to be full LEDs later down the road but at first I'd like to have the frag system a hybrid where I can test multiple frags with 1/2 the tank using 250 watt halides supplemented with 108 in T5s, then using two different LED fixtures on the other 1/4s of the tank.

That being said, I'd definitely like to run the Radion on a 1/4 of it because at this time this seems to be the light of choice for my DT because of it's flexible control. I'm still undecided on a 2nd LED system and would like to keep the price down on the the LEDs for the frag tank since I don't need all features of a nice unit like a Radion.

Thoughts on running the Apollo Dimmable fixture that runs at $399?
http://apolloreefled.com/shop/solarblast-dimable/

My concerns are:
1) How do four of these units work together? Can one Ethernet cord go to a switch that then goes to the dimming module of each light so I don't have to purchase this. Instead of a switch I'd guess an RJ45 splitter would do the trick?
2) How would corals do from acclimating from Apollo Fixture to Radion in DT?
 
Started plumbing tonight...

Started plumbing tonight...

From the earlier questions regarding the Apollo fixtures I can use RJ-45 splitters to not have to buy more Apex VDM Modules. Still curious on everyone's opinion on acclimating from the Appolo LEDs to the Radions?

As far as today, I had a little time to start plumbing since the valves/bulkheads came in last night. Stopped plumbing once I realized I forgot to get 1.5" threaded adapters to go to the gate valves:( At least I already knew I had to put another order in at BRS once they get the rest of the plumbing I need in.


Zoomed out shot....
photobucket-1693-1328403051115.jpg


Close up...
photobucket-3906-1328403038814.jpg


Tomorrow I should have more time to invest into working on the plumbing and will likely go ahead and just work on the frag tank!
 
Are those the ball valves from pa? how easy do they turn? ive used cheaper ones from hd and they start to stick. I was going to order mine from savko.

Steve
 
Just finished reading the whole thread. Looks like someone has a little money to spend. Can wait to see the finished product. As of this moment, what would you like to change from what you already have completed and is "permanent."
 
Wow, you're not screwing around! Is that all SCH80 pvc? I went all SCH40 on mine, but SCH80 gives you a lot of leeway especially when it comes to threaded connections. I cracked 3 bulkheads and another threaded connection due to over tightening.
 
Are those the ball valves from pa? how easy do they turn? ive used cheaper ones from hd and they start to stick. I was going to order mine from savko.
Click to expand...

Yeah, all valves and bulkheads are from PA. I've had SCH 40 ball valves from Lowes before and they seized up shortly after putting in place so I figured I better go the right route with this system. Gate Valves will be on other side of pumps so I can control the flow as I'm thinking I'll really have to dial them back right now without DT attached.

The sump and the whole setup looks good so far. Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Not a professional but really trying to make this setup right.

Just finished reading the whole thread. Looks like someone has a little money to spend. Can wait to see the finished product. As of this moment, what would you like to change from what you already have completed and is "permanent."
Click to expand...

I'll probably have more to list once the setup is complete but the placement of the two pumps ended up being a bit in the way of the sink. I'm not overly concerned about that but the 2" ball valves were much larger than I originally planned in the schematics.

Wow, you're not screwing around! Is that all SCH80 pvc? I went all SCH40 on mine, but SCH80 gives you a lot of leeway especially when it comes to threaded connections. I cracked 3 bulkheads and another threaded connection due to over tightening.
Click to expand...

Let's hope all the SCH 80 pays off:) Since I forgot some pieces to the puzzle I'll be working on the frag tank today and drilling some new heads and replacing all the original SCH 40 bulkheads with SCH 80 Bulkheads. Only bulkheads that will remain SCH 40 are on the fish QT and only reasoning I'm leaving it as is because I can't drill the bottom holes out to be bigger.
 
Dustin1300 said:
From the earlier questions regarding the Apollo fixtures I can use RJ-45 splitters to not have to buy more Apex VDM Modules. Still curious on everyone's opinion on acclimating from the Appolo LEDs to the Radions?

As far as today, I had a little time to start plumbing since the valves/bulkheads came in last night. Stopped plumbing once I realized I forgot to get 1.5" threaded adapters to go to the gate valves:( At least I already knew I had to put another order in at BRS once they get the rest of the plumbing I need in.


Zoomed out shot....
photobucket-1693-1328403051115.jpg



Tomorrow I should have more time to invest into working on the plumbing and will likely go ahead and just work on the frag tank!
Click to expand...
 
Frag tank 80% down

Frag tank 80% down

As stated earlier I was going to focus on getting my frag tank closer to being done today. Today got the following accomplished:

- Drilled two more holes for the 3/4" bulkheads returns
- Drilled one more hole for a 1" bulkheads for the drain so I can do a beananimal overflow
- Got all the stand holes cut out, mounted bulkheads
- Put the Lockline returns in so I can have some good flow alternating

***Sorry but phone pics were a bit blurry today:(

Zoomed out shot:
photobucket-6123-1328482201428.jpg


Top Down shot:
photobucket-5220-1328482186504.jpg


If I'm feeling up for it I might go ahead and do the beananimal overflows later tonight after the game. Great job on intentional grounding Brady, I so do not like you!:p
 
Started looking at the underside of the frag system and my original design with 2" Tees -> 3/4" Reducer -> 3/4" Ball Valve -> Barbed fitting -> Flex PVC -> Barbed fitting -> Bulkhead is not going to work as just the "2" Tees -> 3/4" Reducer -> 3/4" Ball Valve -> Barbed fitting" portion would be over 12". (Did not realize how big 2" PVC gets while working with it!)

That being said, I think what looks to be the best option at this point is to get a SCH 80 PVC manifold. I need something that takes my 2" PVC feed pipe and distributes to 6 3/4" slips.

I found the following manifolds but they are SCH 40 and curious if anyone is aware of any other manifolds like this that are SCH 80?!?

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds
 
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