A Splash of Color

Piper27 said:
Good advise, I should clean out my rock tank for sure. That's something I have put off for a while which will probably help. I remember two tanks ago (this is how I measure time now...), keeping my refuge clean was a key to the health of the system. The carbon source is working amazing though, I wouldn't be able to have half the fish i do or feed so much without it. I have been using it since the start of this tank so I don't think I should change it. It does prevent me from using filter socks though. I really wish I had space to use a nice large sand filter but I bet it would run bad with all the bacteria in the water, just like the socks. Rinsing frozen food is another thing I have stopped doing and should be doing especially with how much we feed.

I think you should leave thoes acros alone unless they start peeling above any of the bases. I as well have had about 50/50 luck cutting things. I have had a little better luck glueing the rtn line when a coral looks like that and giving it a very quick iodine dip. Most of the time it only works if you catch it the first day or two. Good luck!

I hate dropping acros on the floor, echinata, cardus and turaki have all been dropped in my house... The just explode! You would think I would learn but holding them makes me more nervous and shakey. Now I just stay away from deepwater type stuff as much as I can :)
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Hey mate, that table lost another 1/4" along the die back line today. Everything else still looks ok to my eyes. Growth has come to a shuddering halt, dosed 125ml today which is probably high. They all look ok but the glass is staying too clean for too long again suddenly so i've put the skimmer into re circulation mode for now.

markalot said:
Argh, careful with that Lanthanum crap.

I would have a bottle of Seachem Phosphorus on hand as well, just in case. I learned the hard way with PhosphateRx (a diluted form) and now regularly do 2 drops a day which holds PO4 about .03. I dosed a single drop in my smaller tank, everything looked like hell the next day, two acros browned, and the ULR meter read 0. Just a smidge of Seachem Phosphorus turned things around, fortunately, and one of the acros has regained color. My problem in my smaller tank is that I only have 3 fish so it's a constant struggle to keep elevated NO3 and PO4.

You know all this, I'm just trying to look smart and stuff. :)

I credit regular small dosing of Lanthanum for me being able to keep stable params and have a nice SPS tank.
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Thanks for the help Mark, we all know lots of stuff yet we all keep doing these things so any tips are always welcome. I will be leaving the water sterilizing agent alone for the foreseeable future mate...........:twitch:

Because i'm in the Southern hemisphere, i bring the hose around the skimmer body in a clockwise direction. If you're in the other lame hemisphere make sure you bring the drain hose around in an anti clockwise direction.
If it didn't matter i wouldn't mention it so just do what i say for a change without any whiny 'but why' garbage please.

# If you have a net screen over the display you can run the hose either way.

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No idea tbh Kevin, the acros have great PE a few hours after lights out with the skimmer sending everything back into the water so i'm sure everything will be back on track in the next few weeks.

A small piece of the new acro that you can see before it colors up properly. It had no yellow at all a few weeks ago when i stuck it on the stylo. You can see the body beginning to take on the pinky glow which is PAR driven from the 400W Radium above and to the right as opposed to the yellow highlight pigment which you can clearly see developing on very shaded parts of the piece where the skin tone is drab.

I have three pieces of fireworks in the display and now i have three of this one as well - i like this acro more :)

uuuu_zpsunojgdji.jpg


You should definitely grow the hell out of this acro Christian, it's like shimmering yellow gold on a glowing pink body.......... like i am not joking here mate, it's really special :)

Btw, did you see what happened with that white pointer in the shark cage with that diver - not a bloody scratch on him ! It had a bloody nose when it flew out the top because he did what i told you to do when one comes over for a nibble - punch it hard right on the nose and get back to work ! :beer:
 
biggles said:
I gently removed the prop from under the table anddddddddddddd smashed the back of my hand into that pale blue branch i moved the other day onto the small middle island.

This time i let rip with many colorful expletives ! Not only did i smash it off the rock but i also smashed a branch off it just to take the bleeping cake :furious:

That's why there's now a frag on the sand........

Until your arm is dry, the glue is away and everything is out of the display that should be................ your acros are not safe.........:hammer:
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I have an a@53hole of a female clown who likes to try and take chunks out of the back of your hand while trying to hold freshly glued frags as still as possible while the glue sets - I swear the only time she does it is when gluing corals, maybe the superglue sends her into a ice rage? usually results in the frag being glued being displaces and then knocking over may other corals, or as I found out last night I also have a jerk of a barrier reef chromis that didn't want any frags on his patch of ground and over about 30mins proceeded to smash them off and carry them off to the other side of the tank and dump them :furious:
 
biggles said:
Mine all seem to die when the shell is about 1/2" dia mate. The babies don't climb the glass until they're about 1/8" dia, until then they spend their time on the sand when the lights are off.







I have no idea what the solution was Mindy but i'll find out for you next time i visit Deer Park.



You just had to ask about the N & P didn't ya Mindy.......... i did something stupid already.......:facepalm:



Since the nitrates were barely registering on the Salifert even when looking sideways for the lower range reading and since i had phos at close to 0.01 with the glass clean for a couple of days i decided that the low nitrates were paling the acros over the last few days more so than the low phos reading i now trusted with no rampant glass algae growing.



Sooooooooo, about lunch time yesterday i put 10ml of Seachem Flourish Nitrogen into the display to see if i saw some pop the next day on the acros. I had low nutrients so what's the harm in a little nitrogen experiment right..........



30 mins after i turned the lights on this morning i noticed two acros looking terribly icky colored suddenly and then i saw the slow RTN on both at the base. I say slow STN rather than STN because i could see a 1/16th" little flap of waving tissue at the die back border. I class STN as very slow die back that you never actually see visible tissue loss as i just described.

That's just so you know what i mean when i use the terms here. ;)



It was about this time i remembered what happens to phos when you dose nitrates.............:blown:



Nitrates are 2 and phos is zero on Elos high res. I fed the tank 5 un rinsed mysis cubes today along with heaps of pellets and nori and when the lights go off i will empty the skimmer cup and let the skimmate drain into the sump all night.



One acro is a purple table but the other is my blue table that i posted pics off a while back - the nice one. It's violet now and very washed out with about 1.5 sq inches of tissue loss at the base. I'll try to get a quick pic of the damage still happening before i turn the T5's off.







No idea sorry mate. The 400W Radiums are 9" and the T5's are angled 6-7" off the water. Most stuff is 10" - 14" below the water.







Yes well something is certainly happening too fast right this bloody minute Kevin :mad:







Hey Rory, good to see you back matey. Look forward to seeing your new reef design buddy. :)







I'm clueless about the fish Alex, none have jumped out for quite some time which is good.





That new piece was not liking the high light i had it in on the far left island up too high so i removed it and placed it down low on the small middle island. I super glued it to a small rock on the kitchen bench and then used glue and putty to stick the rock onto the island. One of the cardinals claimed it within an hour.



Dom's firetruck acro speaks for itself. There is no green on a firetruck whatsoever in case you think you have it..........



1_zpsinn7pxhq.jpg




In other news i've been dosing a single element at a rate of 0.1ml per 250L water a day for a couple of weeks and i am certain it has led to much richer and vibrant pigments but since things have suddenly gone south i wanted to show you this piece now in case i kill it or something. I want to get the phos etc back under some sort of stable control and see how things go for a while before i say what i'm dosing since i don't want anyone killing stuff copying me.



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You prob can't see it but the skin is taking on a pink hue as the polyps begin to redden.



1b_zpsdzibe6le.jpg
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Here is an article Realtek to just what you are talking about


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Dom, I have something similar from an Aussie shipment 1 to 2 months back. It came in yellower but turned more pink over time. Polyps are a deep red. I just managed to borrow a par meter and my lights were shockingly low. I run a 5ft 8 tube powermodule hybrid over a 6ft tank. The light was about 12 inches above the surface and this coral was about 8 to 10 inches below the surface. it was getting about 150 par. I attribute the loss of yellow and increase in pink to the low lighting. I have since lowered the light to about 7 inches above the surface and par has increased to about 250ish. Hopefully the yellow will come back.

PSX_20161010_182040_zpsvyswni0d.jpg
 
That seems very low par for that light fixture, I have seen people getting way higher numbers. Cool acro though for sure!
 
It's not possible for 8 bulbs to put out so little par. An 8x24 puts out like 350 at 12" -- Your light is damaged or something. Call ATI, that can't be possible without extreme malfunction (a 4x24w puts out more par than your light does. Somethings wrong).
 
I suspected something was wrong :( Just posted in the ATI Powermodule Hybrid thread on this issue actually.

Very unfortunately I'm located in Singapore and our local ATI distributor is extremely irresponsible and does not provide good warranty service. I'm not confident that I'll be able to get this issue resolved.
 
What par meter are you using? You need to add 30% to your reading if measuring underwater with the new Apogee 500.
 
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