About to ditch ZEOvit!
- Thread starter malx
- Start date
malx
Active member
Hi, Everyone.
Hope everyone is doing good. Corals are holding on and I'm seeing some growth. Small amounts of hair algae, and cyano which is good!
Attached is a Triton test and you can see that my phosphates are around 0.015.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3_bzO9CYz4RelcyOHlxeEd3dlk/view
Here is my current dosing:
3 Drops ZEOBak Every Other Day
3 Drops Sponge Power Every Other Day
2ml K+ Strong Every Other Day
And
3 Drops Coral Vitalizer Every Day
5ml Coral Snow + 5 Drops Cyano Clean 1x Weekly
1.2tsb ZEO Zym + 5 Drops Bio Mate 1x Weekly.
Going to do this for another few weeks and see how the corals do.
Now I don't want to go and treat any numbers, but if anyone looks at that Triton test and sees anything they would change let me know!
Thanks!
Joey
Hope everyone is doing good. Corals are holding on and I'm seeing some growth. Small amounts of hair algae, and cyano which is good!
Attached is a Triton test and you can see that my phosphates are around 0.015.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3_bzO9CYz4RelcyOHlxeEd3dlk/view
Here is my current dosing:
3 Drops ZEOBak Every Other Day
3 Drops Sponge Power Every Other Day
2ml K+ Strong Every Other Day
And
3 Drops Coral Vitalizer Every Day
5ml Coral Snow + 5 Drops Cyano Clean 1x Weekly
1.2tsb ZEO Zym + 5 Drops Bio Mate 1x Weekly.
Going to do this for another few weeks and see how the corals do.
Now I don't want to go and treat any numbers, but if anyone looks at that Triton test and sees anything they would change let me know!
Thanks!
Joey
malx
Active member
Well, my friggin corals are at it again and starting to Pale. Luckily this time I noticed. Not sure what to do. My nitrates are 5 and phosphates are .05. I should be in the sweet spot for SPS. The only thing I can think of is that I got a professional water test and the Iodine in my tank is minimal. Anyone think adding iodine will help?
Let me know!
Let me know!
Dr Holmes Farley has opined that iodine, in it's many forms, does not really do anything. He used to dose it and quit and never noticed anything. That being said, if you dose the right kind in the right concentration, then you cannot probably hurt anything... just get a test kit. You will get some anecdotal posts that iodine helped some folks and plenty more that it did not do much - however, you really need to find out what kind that they dosed because some kinds get skimmed right away, others bound to organics and never used and other kinds will float around for possible use.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/chemistry
Just changing a bit more water will bring this back to normal. It will also reload your iron which the chaeto probably depleted a bit.
The sweet spot for SPS is NSW parameters, IMO. I know that some folks like to raise nutrients, but I get the absolutely best color out of .01N and .005P, or very close to natural seawater. I would never let my P get over .01.
Like I have kinda posted before, you are going to need to pick a method and go with with. If you want to go pure Berlin, then stop dosing stuff, change your water and let the tank be and bring that fuge back online to get those nutrients down. If you want to go Zeo and add in nutrients and also carbon, then go full scale and do it 100%. Nobody can really ride two horses with one arse. I am not sure what you are doing now, so my apologies if you have done something like this.
Lastly, remember that young tanks do have ups and downs... so until you get to a year or more, then this might just be a blip and you might want to just push right through it. It might take even more than a year for a tank like yours with minimalistic rocks to get really stable with anoxic and oxic zones in the rock and sand to keep the N on the money all of the time.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/chemistry
Just changing a bit more water will bring this back to normal. It will also reload your iron which the chaeto probably depleted a bit.
The sweet spot for SPS is NSW parameters, IMO. I know that some folks like to raise nutrients, but I get the absolutely best color out of .01N and .005P, or very close to natural seawater. I would never let my P get over .01.
Like I have kinda posted before, you are going to need to pick a method and go with with. If you want to go pure Berlin, then stop dosing stuff, change your water and let the tank be and bring that fuge back online to get those nutrients down. If you want to go Zeo and add in nutrients and also carbon, then go full scale and do it 100%. Nobody can really ride two horses with one arse. I am not sure what you are doing now, so my apologies if you have done something like this.
Lastly, remember that young tanks do have ups and downs... so until you get to a year or more, then this might just be a blip and you might want to just push right through it. It might take even more than a year for a tank like yours with minimalistic rocks to get really stable with anoxic and oxic zones in the rock and sand to keep the N on the money all of the time.
LordDarth Bane
New member
Do you have any recent photos? Both main tank and sump? The old photos links on Zeovit forum do not work anymore....
IMO you need to rebuild the N-cycle in your tank. If you ditch Zeovit then you need to rebuild your tank in Berlin way. From your last photos on Zeovit forum you have too few live rocks for a Berlin system. You have to give the bacteria some media to grow after you ditch the Zeolite reactor. Try to add a few fresh live rocks, and perhaps 2L Sera Siporax in the sump.
My main tank is the same size or yours, 36"x20"x20". I have more live rocks than yours and about 5L of good media in the sump (Sera Siporax, Eheim Substrat, etc)
A mature system would have 0 (undetectable) NO3 without keep dosing carbon and bateria. Dosing carbon does help, but it cannot replace N-cycle in a mature system. All you have to do is wait, and be patient. In the old school way it was advised that corals can only be added after running a new tank for 3 months, but the Zeovit way said only 14 days. lol
And think about if there is any unnecessary dosing that you can stop. Personally I will only keep CV, or maybe SP and Zeobak. And stop all the others.
IMO you need to rebuild the N-cycle in your tank. If you ditch Zeovit then you need to rebuild your tank in Berlin way. From your last photos on Zeovit forum you have too few live rocks for a Berlin system. You have to give the bacteria some media to grow after you ditch the Zeolite reactor. Try to add a few fresh live rocks, and perhaps 2L Sera Siporax in the sump.
My main tank is the same size or yours, 36"x20"x20". I have more live rocks than yours and about 5L of good media in the sump (Sera Siporax, Eheim Substrat, etc)
A mature system would have 0 (undetectable) NO3 without keep dosing carbon and bateria. Dosing carbon does help, but it cannot replace N-cycle in a mature system. All you have to do is wait, and be patient. In the old school way it was advised that corals can only be added after running a new tank for 3 months, but the Zeovit way said only 14 days. lol
And think about if there is any unnecessary dosing that you can stop. Personally I will only keep CV, or maybe SP and Zeobak. And stop all the others.
My setup is quite simple: dosing, +- 10 gal water change per week, some bacteria over the last year (newly cured rock) and lately flatworm stop to give a boost to the acros and coral snow to clear the water.I do run a small amount of rowa and passive carbon.My sump is really basic with no divider.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
malx
Active member
Thanks all for the advice. Currently my dosing has been basically reduced some of the basics of ZEOvit.
3 drops ZEObak every other day
3 Drops Sponge Power every other day
3 drops aminos and coral vitalizer each day
ZeoFood twice weekly
I added live rock to my sump when I pulled the reactor. I'm running about 30lbs of it right now in a 56 gallon tank.
I got a professional water test and the only thing that looked off was Iodine
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
3 drops ZEObak every other day
3 Drops Sponge Power every other day
3 drops aminos and coral vitalizer each day
ZeoFood twice weekly
I added live rock to my sump when I pulled the reactor. I'm running about 30lbs of it right now in a 56 gallon tank.
I got a professional water test and the only thing that looked off was Iodine
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
malx
Active member
Bpb
New member
My setup is quite simple: dosing, +- 10 gal water change per week, some bacteria over the last year (newly cured rock) and lately flatworm stop to give a boost to the acros and coral snow to clear the water.I do run a small amount of rowa and passive carbon.My sump is really basic with no divider.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
I'm really enjoying your light spectrum in that pic. Did you white balance it digitally to warm it up or are you running that low Kelvin or lighting? It looks fantastic.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
If I were you, I'd cease all dosing of zeovit until your corals stop with their stn. You might even find that your corals might look better without the zeovit system. This was the case for me. I tried all the blue bottles along with the zeolite rocks. The system was just so so and to me was considered a failure. I started neglecting the tank and ceased all dosing, after a month or two of neglect, corals looked better than it ever did while on zeovit.
Edit: I'd also make sure your parameters, especially alkalinity is as stable as possible throughout the day.
Edit: I'd also make sure your parameters, especially alkalinity is as stable as possible throughout the day.
LordDarth Bane
New member
System looks great, though your rocks look very clean. Those newly added live rocks in your sump, how fresh were they?
May or may not be the cause for pale corals, but I would add a few FRESH live rocks to seed them. I wouldn't hurt either.
Your red digitata looks great, but the monti looks pale/grey. Or is it just the photo?
If you are uncomfortable of your iodine level I'd try dosing and start with a little amount. Or maybe arrange a few bigger water change to correct it.
Stop adding new corals and wait for your system to mature and handle your current loading first. :thumbsup:
Currently I am also raising my NO3 from 0 to 5ppm. Some SPS do look better but some have less PE. It has only been a week and we should wait and see.
May or may not be the cause for pale corals, but I would add a few FRESH live rocks to seed them. I wouldn't hurt either.
Your red digitata looks great, but the monti looks pale/grey. Or is it just the photo?
If you are uncomfortable of your iodine level I'd try dosing and start with a little amount. Or maybe arrange a few bigger water change to correct it.
Stop adding new corals and wait for your system to mature and handle your current loading first. :thumbsup:
Currently I am also raising my NO3 from 0 to 5ppm. Some SPS do look better but some have less PE. It has only been a week and we should wait and see.
malx
Active member
Thanks. The rocks in the sump are fresh live rock that are a combination of a year old and a few months. The rock in the tank looks clean because I have an urchin that goes to town on them. Yes the monti is pale... that's part of the problem!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LordDarth Bane
New member
I'd also try dosing potassium. Just read your Triton test that it was a bit low at 356ppm. My tank is battling SPS paleness as well and G. Alexander suggested me to check K. I just checked it yesterday to find it at only 320ppm. :hmm2:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2646708
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2646708
malx
Active member
Sounds good. Yes dosing both Potassium and Iodine right now to see if that helps. Thanks for the tip!
malx
Active member
G. Alexander is suggesting that my rollermat could be leaching harmful substances via the paper. I feel like this is a stretch. Anyone else agree with it? You can see his comment here: http://zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?p=332678#post332678
LordDarth Bane
New member
Don't know about rollermat. I don't even know there is this kind of product before viewing this thread. :lmao:
I use filter sock, but not 24/7. I only use it to collect debris after I blow them off the rocks, once a week or after water change.
Try not to make the water too clean. Some floating particles and planktons are good for the system and for the corals to feed on.
I use filter sock, but not 24/7. I only use it to collect debris after I blow them off the rocks, once a week or after water change.
Try not to make the water too clean. Some floating particles and planktons are good for the system and for the corals to feed on.
malx
Active member
About 13 months.
Similar threads
