Achilles Tang Ich

D

DopeCantWin

Active member
My Achilles just went through his second outbreak in my display tank. Now he's just floating along the bottom, yes he's still alive. I assume the ich is impairing his breathing and he's running out of time. With him so slow I could catch him and throw him into a 20 gallon I have with water directly from the display. Then slowly lower it to 1.009 salinity. My display salinity is around 1.024. Is this a good idea, or just let him try and make it in the display? The display is a 210 with 2400 gph turnover from the sump and an mp60 which I've set almost to the top for him. The only fish in the display that could bother him is a Kole Tang, but I haven't seen much any aggression.
 
Hypo will take to long and further stress the fish. You need to get some copper product in the 20g to help the Achilles.the bigger issue is you have ich in your DT and the Achilles is always going to get it in the DT. MrTuskfish who I trust has lots of experience with Achilles
 
Dmorty217 said:
Hypo will take to long and further stress the fish. You need to get some copper product in the 20g to help the Achilles.the bigger issue is you have ich in your DT and the Achilles is always going to get it in the DT. MrTuskfish who I trust has lots of experience with Achilles
Click to expand...

That's true, if I got the fish cured in the copper, I'd have to sell him. There is no way to get all the fish out of my DT. The list in the Display is

Foxface
Kole
Pair of Clowns
Purple Firefish
Mandarin(Eats brine shrimp)
Chromi
Cleaner Wrasse (eats everything including Nori, surprisingly enough)
6 Line Wrasse
Candy Hog
Cave Basslet (absolutely impossible to take out without tearing down the tank)

could I leave some fish in there and have the ich die? Especially the Cave Basslet. Without breaking down the tank I don't think I have any shot.
 
Or treat the achilles with copper then put the DT on hypo then put the achilles in the DT and keep it in hypo for 3 monthes
 
If the Achilles is the only one looking bad, I'd pull him now. You can worry with the other fish later. I'd set up a QT and treat. Chloroquine Phosphate would be your best bet right now; but that will be difficult to obtain on such short notice. So, tank transfer or Cupramine would be your next best bets.
 
He hasn't eaten in about 2 days. I've had him now for 3 weeks. The rest of the fish I've had for years. He's from LiveAquaria, if that means anything. Ich will stay alive as long as there is absolutely any fish in the DT?
 
I wish all the folks who think you can live with ich (just add garlic) would read this thread. This is the classic result of not quarantining all new fish or not wiping out the ich when you know its there. (I assume, because you said this was the 2nd go-round with ich).

Believe me,and this may sound harsh, but there are many hobbyists who believe (or want to believe) ich "go away" on its own. Many hobbyists either think it will just disappear or don't want the work getting rid of it.Sadly, these folks often get support from a few who have lived with ich for a while. The "few" is a very small group.Its human nature to chose the easy way, if it sounds at all viable..

Unfortunately, no matter what happens to the Achilles; ich will continue to live in your tank and will come back, often in huge numbers. A reef-safe ich cure is the Holy Grail of the hobby. The difference may well be that the Holy Grail actually exists. You can eliminate it, but it will be a lot of work. Siphon/pump most water into new Brute-type garbage cans. Fish will be in small areas with water and are then easy to get out. Pump the water back and treat in a QT (s). IMO, hypo is out of the question because of corals and other inverts. I have no faith in hypo at all anymore.
 
MrTuskfish said:
I wish all the folks who think you can live with ich (just add garlic) would read this thread. This is the classic result of not quarantining all new fish or not wiping out the ich when you know its there. (I assume, because you said this was the 2nd go-round with ich).

Believe me,and this may sound harsh, but there are many hobbyists who believe (or want to believe) ich "go away" on its own. Many hobbyists either think it will just disappear or don't want the work getting rid of it.Sadly, these folks often get support from a few who have lived with ich for a while. The "few" is a very small group.Its human nature to chose the easy way, if it sounds at all viable..

Unfortunately, no matter what happens to the Achilles; ich will continue to live in your tank and will come back, often in huge numbers. A reef-safe ich cure is the Holy Grail of the hobby. The difference may well be that the Holy Grail actually exists. You can eliminate it, but it will be a lot of work. Siphon/pump most water into new Brute-type garbage cans. Fish will be in small areas with water and are then easy to get out. Pump the water back and treat in a QT (s). IMO, hypo is out of the question because of corals and other inverts. I have no faith in hypo at all anymore.
Click to expand...

You misunderstood when I said 2nd go-round. He got white spots on him after I got him, they went away, this is the second time. Within a 3 week period.
 
When I first got him, he went into the quarantine, but he seemed to not be doing well in the quarantine, and I did something stupid and risked it.
 
If u haven't I would read the ich stickies at the top, I understand u have a lot of money in ur tank but by adding the tang to ur tank u now have Ich in ur display, the spots cleared up because they dropped off ur fish and are multiplying like wet gremlins in ur substrate
 
GrendelPrime76 said:
If u haven't I would read the ich stickies at the top, I understand u have a lot of money in ur tank but by adding the tang to ur tank u now have Ich in ur display, the spots cleared up because they dropped off ur fish and are multiplying like wet gremlins in ur substrate
Click to expand...

Barebottom tank, but I understand they still multiply elsewhere.
 
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