Not being sarcastic or condescending but this is the reason why I prefer to QT all new arrivals. Prazi-pro, hypo and RO dips stress this fish....I understand you have no alternative but you now have to treat and also stress your other livestock. I hope everything turns positive for you...
Achilles Tang Primer
- Thread starter BrianD
- Start date
Not being sarcastic or condescending but this is the reason why I prefer to QT all new arrivals. Prazi-pro, hypo and RO dips stress this fish....I understand you have no alternative but you now have to treat and also stress your other livestock. I hope everything turns positive for you...
ReefPharmer
Active member
no the fish is in a 180, he is in a 90 gallon part of the 180 due to eggcrate
Thank you. I actually put him into a 40 gallon QT but he wasnt moving much in that tank at all even tho i had 2 koralia evo 1400 and a sponge filter. I read through the whole thread here and the majority of people throw them into the DT. I realize that its much better to QT and i have done so with all my other fish, but this fish seems "different".
geaux xman
New member
For the prazi, you need to do the full dose all at once. Thus about 45mls(5ml/20gal) or more for 180g plus sump water. The prazipro degrades over the course of a few days and most of it effectiveness is during the first 1-3 days.
Dosing 7mls, you had only dosed about 15% of what the directions calls for.
Dosing 7mls, you had only dosed about 15% of what the directions calls for.
ReefPharmer
Active member
you are absolutely right, and I feel like a nut especially since I work in a pharmacy and measure all the time. I dosed correctly. not 7 ml, I dont even know why i wrote that - must have been tired.
ReefPharmer:
How big is your AT? When I purchased mine he was approximately 3" and was fine in my 30 gal QT. I had a few small powerheads in that tank but replaced 1 with a koralia 3 for more flow and he was fine. When I moved him into my DT he only utilized about half the tank to swim about......now, he swims through the whole tank, (my DT is 215 gals...6 feet long). The unfortunate thing is that you have now introduced fluke in your DT so you need to address that.
Frank
How big is your AT? When I purchased mine he was approximately 3" and was fine in my 30 gal QT. I had a few small powerheads in that tank but replaced 1 with a koralia 3 for more flow and he was fine. When I moved him into my DT he only utilized about half the tank to swim about......now, he swims through the whole tank, (my DT is 215 gals...6 feet long). The unfortunate thing is that you have now introduced fluke in your DT so you need to address that.
Frank
K.Truong
New member
Hello all,
I just added a 3 1/2 inch AT to my tank recently. He was treated for ich and quarantined for a month at the LFS before I brought it home. This LFS is extremely reputable (Aquatouch in Phoenix AZ) and had the fish eating frozen along with nori prior to putting him for sale. I put it into my DT after about a week in QT. I realized that this is a short amount of time in my QT tank; but he seemed cramped in there, plus he had already been QTed for a month at the store. My DT is a 175 gallon SPS tank that currently has a Chocolate/Mimic Tang and a Yellow Tang. There was some flashes of aggression from the Chocolate the first day, but has subsided since and all three swim together now. The AT eats like a pig at feeding time and grazes on nori and the live rock all day long.
My only concern at this point is that his chest seems to be lighter in color than most. Is this something that I should be concerned about? He does not show any other sign of stress or ich.
Any thoughts/input would be appreciated.
I just added a 3 1/2 inch AT to my tank recently. He was treated for ich and quarantined for a month at the LFS before I brought it home. This LFS is extremely reputable (Aquatouch in Phoenix AZ) and had the fish eating frozen along with nori prior to putting him for sale. I put it into my DT after about a week in QT. I realized that this is a short amount of time in my QT tank; but he seemed cramped in there, plus he had already been QTed for a month at the store. My DT is a 175 gallon SPS tank that currently has a Chocolate/Mimic Tang and a Yellow Tang. There was some flashes of aggression from the Chocolate the first day, but has subsided since and all three swim together now. The AT eats like a pig at feeding time and grazes on nori and the live rock all day long.
My only concern at this point is that his chest seems to be lighter in color than most. Is this something that I should be concerned about? He does not show any other sign of stress or ich.
Any thoughts/input would be appreciated.
seafansar
New member
My main piece of advice is to find a good healthy one that is eating at the store. I did and he's been doing great for over a year now.
Him in the sort of (had corals in it) QT 40 gallon and treated with Prazi pro just in case:
Then he went into my 150 gallon and gave him to my dad when we tore that tank down. Since then he's been happily living in my dad's 125 gallon. My dad feeds a TON and he loves it. He uses a mix of Rods, oyster feast or whatever that stuff is called, mysis, garlic drops, and I think one or two other things. He gets along great with the orange shoulder tang who's about 2 to 3 inches bigger than him. He's a really great fish and I was mad when my dad refused to give him back! lol. So we went out and bought a chevron tang instead for our new tank, of course making my dad pay!
But I think the real key is to find a nice one that's eating or else it's a risk (though one that can be made, just I wouldn't want to).
Him in the sort of (had corals in it) QT 40 gallon and treated with Prazi pro just in case:
Then he went into my 150 gallon and gave him to my dad when we tore that tank down. Since then he's been happily living in my dad's 125 gallon. My dad feeds a TON and he loves it. He uses a mix of Rods, oyster feast or whatever that stuff is called, mysis, garlic drops, and I think one or two other things. He gets along great with the orange shoulder tang who's about 2 to 3 inches bigger than him. He's a really great fish and I was mad when my dad refused to give him back! lol. So we went out and bought a chevron tang instead for our new tank, of course making my dad pay!
But I think the real key is to find a nice one that's eating or else it's a risk (though one that can be made, just I wouldn't want to).
ReefPharmer
Active member
Update on my fish:
As some of you read, I put my achilles into the main display and he got a major case of flukes when he got jumped by the powder blue.
I treated with a course of freshwater dip for 6 mins/prazipro and separated the fish with an eggcrate divider.
He came down after several days and flukes went away. After about week I decided to risk reintroduction of fish by removing the eggcrate. After some dancing around and reestablishing the pecking order, they are living fine.
He still doesnt eat much except nori but he does "try" NLS and flake here and there. I currently soak nori in selcon and garlic once a day for them to eat. He does eat nori relatively decently. He has established himself as the alpha dog and the powder blue stays away from him for the most part. It is fun to watch them both because the AT will cruise the outside of the tank in a large O and the powder blue will cruise on the opposite side doing the same thing. They each swim past the nori and grab a bite and swim away...
The tank is in semi hyposalinity at 1.012 and I plan on dropping it to 1.009 to do the 2 month hypo treatment. He has not shown signs of ich but with him being from a wholeseller, i know he has a VERY good chance of having ich.
For the record:
Tank size: 180gal
Tank inhabitants: 1 small yellow tang, 1 medium (fatass) desjardini tang, 1 medium powder blue tang and 1 medium achilles tang.
For movement I have 1 koralia magnum 7, 1 tunze 6045, 1 koralia 1400 evo, and 1 sure flow moded MJ1200. My return is a sedra 9000.
PS i dont plan on adding any more tangs unless the LFS has a sale, then I am going to add 2 clown tangs, 1 more achilles and 1 purple tang, all separately.:crazy1:
Here are a couple pics, sorry for the algae and bad quality, he wont stay still.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7141003341/" title="P1040958 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/7141003341_4232751e82.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040958"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7141004395/" title="P1040948 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7141004395_5d24215eca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040948"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6994912314/" title="P1040949 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/6994912314_99c08bdf04.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040949"></a>
As some of you read, I put my achilles into the main display and he got a major case of flukes when he got jumped by the powder blue.
I treated with a course of freshwater dip for 6 mins/prazipro and separated the fish with an eggcrate divider.
He came down after several days and flukes went away. After about week I decided to risk reintroduction of fish by removing the eggcrate. After some dancing around and reestablishing the pecking order, they are living fine.
He still doesnt eat much except nori but he does "try" NLS and flake here and there. I currently soak nori in selcon and garlic once a day for them to eat. He does eat nori relatively decently. He has established himself as the alpha dog and the powder blue stays away from him for the most part. It is fun to watch them both because the AT will cruise the outside of the tank in a large O and the powder blue will cruise on the opposite side doing the same thing. They each swim past the nori and grab a bite and swim away...
The tank is in semi hyposalinity at 1.012 and I plan on dropping it to 1.009 to do the 2 month hypo treatment. He has not shown signs of ich but with him being from a wholeseller, i know he has a VERY good chance of having ich.
For the record:
Tank size: 180gal
Tank inhabitants: 1 small yellow tang, 1 medium (fatass) desjardini tang, 1 medium powder blue tang and 1 medium achilles tang.
For movement I have 1 koralia magnum 7, 1 tunze 6045, 1 koralia 1400 evo, and 1 sure flow moded MJ1200. My return is a sedra 9000.
PS i dont plan on adding any more tangs unless the LFS has a sale, then I am going to add 2 clown tangs, 1 more achilles and 1 purple tang, all separately.:crazy1:
Here are a couple pics, sorry for the algae and bad quality, he wont stay still.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7141003341/" title="P1040958 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/7141003341_4232751e82.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040958"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7141004395/" title="P1040948 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7141004395_5d24215eca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040948"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6994912314/" title="P1040949 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/6994912314_99c08bdf04.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1040949"></a>
geaux xman
New member
all the fish looks fantanstic man.
i guess you tried PE mysis soaked in Selecon or mysis?
i guess you tried PE mysis soaked in Selecon or mysis?
ReefPharmer
Active member
Nope i have not tried the mysis. I got a package of it before but its jumbo so I feed it to my bubbletip. I will have to try the smaller version
In my opinion adding all those other tangs is a mistake. Clown tangs can be extremely aggressive never mind adding 2. Also adding another achilles? I don't think that would be a good idea. If you had a 350 gal tank or larger you might be able to get away with adding a clown tang and maybe another achilles but not in your 180. I don't think adding the purple would cause a problem. Just my opinion...maybe others can chime in.....
Avaron
Member
I’m on my second Achilles.
My first was 3.5 inches. He came a little skinny and stressed. My tank is 350g and I put him directly in the DT as I thought that he’d do better. He developed ich quickly. A week or so later, he finally began eating nori and brine shrimp. He continued to get skinny over the course of 3 months and slowly passed away, again, only eating selcon/garlic/Marine C soaked nori/brine shrimp. He wouldn’t take to any other food. His coloration during that time also turned from black to charcoal. Looking back, I think he had flukes.
My new Achilles - He’s been in my 55 gallon quarantine for two weeks. This guy is 5.5 inches and came super healthy. Good coloration and weight, no signs of stress. No ich yet. He began eating the second day I had him. He eats selcon/garlic/Marine C soaked brine shrimp and PE mysis. He also eats Rogers Food. He hasn’t taken to nori much yet which is interesting. He also wont touch NLS Thera A pellets. That said, this guy is eats like a pig and continues to get nice and fat off of the brine/mysis. My plan is to leave him in the quarantine a few more weeks before putting him in the DT.
So what did I learn? For me, QT appears to be working. For my first Achilles, it would have allowed me to monitor him better and possibly treat for ich/flukes. I also learned that it’s much easier to start out with a healthy specimen (color, weight, stress free). I still obviously need to put him in the DT and see how he does, but I’m happy that things are currently very positive.
I waited a long time to get my second Achilles to make sure everything was right about him before trying again and I’m glad I did. Also glad I never pulled the trigger of adding a Powder Blue in the meantime while waiting for a healthy Achilles to show up.
My first was 3.5 inches. He came a little skinny and stressed. My tank is 350g and I put him directly in the DT as I thought that he’d do better. He developed ich quickly. A week or so later, he finally began eating nori and brine shrimp. He continued to get skinny over the course of 3 months and slowly passed away, again, only eating selcon/garlic/Marine C soaked nori/brine shrimp. He wouldn’t take to any other food. His coloration during that time also turned from black to charcoal. Looking back, I think he had flukes.
My new Achilles - He’s been in my 55 gallon quarantine for two weeks. This guy is 5.5 inches and came super healthy. Good coloration and weight, no signs of stress. No ich yet. He began eating the second day I had him. He eats selcon/garlic/Marine C soaked brine shrimp and PE mysis. He also eats Rogers Food. He hasn’t taken to nori much yet which is interesting. He also wont touch NLS Thera A pellets. That said, this guy is eats like a pig and continues to get nice and fat off of the brine/mysis. My plan is to leave him in the quarantine a few more weeks before putting him in the DT.
So what did I learn? For me, QT appears to be working. For my first Achilles, it would have allowed me to monitor him better and possibly treat for ich/flukes. I also learned that it’s much easier to start out with a healthy specimen (color, weight, stress free). I still obviously need to put him in the DT and see how he does, but I’m happy that things are currently very positive.
I waited a long time to get my second Achilles to make sure everything was right about him before trying again and I’m glad I did. Also glad I never pulled the trigger of adding a Powder Blue in the meantime while waiting for a healthy Achilles to show up.
Blueline12
Member
Nothing personal but you have way too many large tangs for a 180g, forget about adding more. Recipe for disaster.
I have one achilles in my 180g and would not even consider adding a yellow tang.
ReefPharmer
Active member
I appreciate the advice. I was totally kidding and thought that people would get it since i put the crazy eye :crazy1: I was just naming some of the more aggressive tangs I could think of and forgot to mention sohal
offshored
New member
Could you guys please give me some pointers on how to best setup my tank to take on the Achilles challenge?
My 240 is going to be completed this weekend. Was getting it drilled, with two overflows and had a large sump and fuge custom built.
The tank is 8'x2'x2'.
For water flow I have two Sicce Voyager 4000s (4000 gph) on a wave controller. Also each overflow with have two returns each, each powered by a QuietOne 6000 Pro @ 1600 gph each. I might also put another smaller Sicce Voyager on one side to provide constant flow off of the wave controller.
Tank will have a shallow bed of Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand.
Also I am going to use 250 lbs of 4 year old live rock (various types) with very nice growth on them. I'll add another 70 lbs of 1 year old live rock (various types) from my 55 as well. Should be plenty to graze on.
Fuge will have pods, plants, live rock rubble, etc... and in the sump will be a large tunze skimmer. Slight waterfall between the fuge and skimmer to boost oxygen as well.
Lighting is being done by dimmable LEDs.
Fish that will be in place before the Achilles are:
Skeletor Moray (13"), Yellow Tang (2 1/2"), Purple Tang (2 1/2"), Yellow Bellied Blue Tang (1"), Oc. Clown (1 1/2"), Black Ice Clown (1").
Buying the Achilles from a hobbyist who is now ordering and selling fish locally. He will not sell a fish unless it has been in QT for no less than 4 weeks. During that time it is treated with copper, I'm not sure what else. Also I am told he will be eating like a pig. I just bought my purple from him, and it's very healthy and happy in my QT right now. Thought a one hour car ride to my house and into QT would be less stressful than a plane ride from Divers Den.
I plan to also QT and treat with PraziPro. I'm going to QT in a 55 gallon tank with a few pieces of live rock, some PVC and fake plants. Will have a HOB Remora skimmer, big Eheim Pro canister (with live rock rubble inside), powerheads and a heater.
Also, I would really like to have a chocolate mimic tang... so I was thinking of getting a 3-4" Achilles and a smaller 2" Mimic and putting them into the 55 at the same time. To avoid aggression.
After 4-6 weeks, I plan on moving to the 240 DT.
Please advise on any changes I could do to ensure a higher success rate.
Thanks,
Peter
My 240 is going to be completed this weekend. Was getting it drilled, with two overflows and had a large sump and fuge custom built.
The tank is 8'x2'x2'.
For water flow I have two Sicce Voyager 4000s (4000 gph) on a wave controller. Also each overflow with have two returns each, each powered by a QuietOne 6000 Pro @ 1600 gph each. I might also put another smaller Sicce Voyager on one side to provide constant flow off of the wave controller.
Tank will have a shallow bed of Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand.
Also I am going to use 250 lbs of 4 year old live rock (various types) with very nice growth on them. I'll add another 70 lbs of 1 year old live rock (various types) from my 55 as well. Should be plenty to graze on.
Fuge will have pods, plants, live rock rubble, etc... and in the sump will be a large tunze skimmer. Slight waterfall between the fuge and skimmer to boost oxygen as well.
Lighting is being done by dimmable LEDs.
Fish that will be in place before the Achilles are:
Skeletor Moray (13"), Yellow Tang (2 1/2"), Purple Tang (2 1/2"), Yellow Bellied Blue Tang (1"), Oc. Clown (1 1/2"), Black Ice Clown (1").
Buying the Achilles from a hobbyist who is now ordering and selling fish locally. He will not sell a fish unless it has been in QT for no less than 4 weeks. During that time it is treated with copper, I'm not sure what else. Also I am told he will be eating like a pig. I just bought my purple from him, and it's very healthy and happy in my QT right now. Thought a one hour car ride to my house and into QT would be less stressful than a plane ride from Divers Den.
I plan to also QT and treat with PraziPro. I'm going to QT in a 55 gallon tank with a few pieces of live rock, some PVC and fake plants. Will have a HOB Remora skimmer, big Eheim Pro canister (with live rock rubble inside), powerheads and a heater.
Also, I would really like to have a chocolate mimic tang... so I was thinking of getting a 3-4" Achilles and a smaller 2" Mimic and putting them into the 55 at the same time. To avoid aggression.
After 4-6 weeks, I plan on moving to the 240 DT.
Please advise on any changes I could do to ensure a higher success rate.
Thanks,
Peter
Last edited:
Could you guys please give me some pointers on how to best setup my tank to take on the Achilles challenge?
My 240 is going to be completed this weekend. Was getting it drilled, with two overflows and had a large sump and fuge custom built.
The tank is 8'x2'x2'.
For water flow I have two Sicce Voyager 4000s (4000 gph) on a wave controller. Also each overflow with have two returns each, each powered by a QuietOne 6000 Pro @ 1600 gph each. I might also put another smaller Sicce Voyager on one side to provide constant flow off of the wave controller.
Tank will have a shallow bed of Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand.
Also I am going to use 250 lbs of 4 year old live rock (various types) with very nice growth on them. I'll add another 70 lbs of 1 year old live rock (various types) from my 55 as well. Should be plenty to graze on.
Fuge will have pods, plants, live rock rubble, etc... and in the sump will be a large tunze skimmer. Slight waterfall between the fuge and skimmer to boost oxygen as well.
Lighting is being done by dimmable LEDs.
Fish that will be in place before the Achilles are:
Skeletor Moray (13"), Yellow Tang (2 1/2"), Purple Tang (2 1/2"), Yellow Bellied Blue Tang (1"), Oc. Clown (1 1/2"), Black Ice Clown (1").
Buying the Achilles from a hobbyist who is now ordering and selling fish locally. He will not sell a fish unless it has been in QT for no less than 4 weeks. During that time it is treated with copper, I'm not sure what else. Also I am told he will be eating like a pig. I just bought my purple from him, and it's very healthy and happy in my QT right now. Thought a one hour car ride to my house and into QT would be less stressful than a plane ride from Divers Den.
I plan to also QT and treat with PraziPro. I'm going to QT in a 55 gallon tank with a few pieces of live rock, some PVC and fake plants. Will have a HOB Remora skimmer, big Eheim Pro canister (with live rock rubble inside), powerheads and a heater.
Also, I would really like to have a chocolate mimic tang... so I was thinking of getting a 3-4" Achilles and a smaller 2" Mimic and putting them into the 55 at the same time. To avoid aggression.
After 4-6 weeks, I plan on moving to the 240 DT.
Please advise on any changes I could do to ensure a higher success rate.
Thanks,
Peter
I have a question for you: why do you need 320 pounds of rock? The days of adding tons of rock are over....you are better off leaving some open space for the fish to swim about. Are you planning on adding coral? It sounds like it based on the amount of flow....I'd suggest half the rock...put more in the sump. Also, I would'nt treat the fish automatically with prazi....it sometimes inhibits appetite and when the fish is being newly introduced why would you want to treat without any known pests? Just my opinions.
offshored
New member
Sure I can put a ton of rock in the sump as well. Haven't really nailed that down, but guess it would make more sense to open up some swimming lanes.
I'd like to have some coral, but I'd like for it to be more a mixed reef. Was thinking more of the Achilles in terms of having so much flow.
With the Prazi, just what I've used prior to the purple tang. Since I normally just bought fish from the LFS and I know they have had problems with flukes from wholesalers before.
