karimwassef
Active member
The flat horizontal sheet is about ~9" x 36"
The vertical sheets are ~16" high.
The vertical sheets are ~16" high.
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
karimwassef
Active member
Cut the acrylic. I need to put these sheets vertically and I don't know how to make this box...
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/5_zpsuonlfion.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/5_zpsuonlfion.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 5_zpsuonlfion.jpg"/></a>
This one is with 1/2" acrylic but I'd rather get the 1/4" version I posted earlier.
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/5_zpsuonlfion.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/5_zpsuonlfion.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 5_zpsuonlfion.jpg"/></a>
This one is with 1/2" acrylic but I'd rather get the 1/4" version I posted earlier.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Whatever this is that looks awesome 
If you have CAD files and are happy with 1/4" I'd look at using a laser cutter. It will happily slice perfectly sized pieces, just by hitting print. You can even automatically engrave part IDs on each one. Should save a huge amount of labor.
Laser cut parts should be annealed in an oven before using solvent.
If you have CAD files and are happy with 1/4" I'd look at using a laser cutter. It will happily slice perfectly sized pieces, just by hitting print. You can even automatically engrave part IDs on each one. Should save a huge amount of labor.
Laser cut parts should be annealed in an oven before using solvent.
karimwassef
Active member
Is this equipment I can rent? Buy?
Who has laser equipment?
Who has laser equipment?
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
You can outsource the cuts online (ponoko for example) or local sign or engraving shops which have Epilog or ULS systems.
The Epilog Mini line starts at about $12k for a 18x12 cutting bed with a 30W laser, and rises from there.
A three axis CNC would also do fine.
Or you can do it at home with a table saw - but thats a ton of cuts to make precisely.
The Epilog Mini line starts at about $12k for a 18x12 cutting bed with a 30W laser, and rises from there.
A three axis CNC would also do fine.
Or you can do it at home with a table saw - but thats a ton of cuts to make precisely.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
:eek2:
dang what is that bro!?
Whatever this is that looks awesome
If you have CAD files and are happy with 1/4" I'd look at using a laser cutter. It will happily slice perfectly sized pieces, just by hitting print. You can even automatically engrave part IDs on each one. Should save a huge amount of labor.
Laser cut parts should be annealed in an oven before using solvent.
Laser cutter, yeah I'd do that. But also remember that 1/4" sheets are 0.236 not 0.250. Also this is going to be nearly impossible to get an exact fit on, because a 1/4" sheet is not 1/4" all the way through. Depending on the brand of acrylic and the method (cast, extruded) the sheet can be thicker in the middle and thinner at the edges (horizontally cast), or thicker at one end vs the other (vertically cast). I can attest to variations in thickness. Sandwich parts on top of one another and the problem compounds. So just know that.
As far as laser cut parts, if you cut the outline on a very thin sheet, like 1/16" acrylic (which will be a LOT easier to cut than 1/4") then laminate that on to your 1/4" base, less crazing when you bond.
Also for the annealing thing, yeah, but that only really matters when you are talking structural components. Crazing looks bad but in this case probably not the biggest worry, especially if the laser cutting is done on a thin sheet like I suggested.
karimwassef
Active member
So how would you do this?? Economically and in terms of difficulty?
I was going in the direction of cutting strips and assembling them on a base to make the channels. Do that top and bottom, then start laying in the reassembled vertical pieces. Maybe just use a vertical wall sheet to make sure it stays lined up top to bottom.
Worried about twists, shifts, tilts, sags, and bends... This thing has to line up. The vertical baffles are 1/4" wide and the space is 1/4" between them.
I was going in the direction of cutting strips and assembling them on a base to make the channels. Do that top and bottom, then start laying in the reassembled vertical pieces. Maybe just use a vertical wall sheet to make sure it stays lined up top to bottom.
Worried about twists, shifts, tilts, sags, and bends... This thing has to line up. The vertical baffles are 1/4" wide and the space is 1/4" between them.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
what is it?
karimwassef
Active member
Its a flow spreader/diverter baffle box.
It takes 40K gph and turns it, then creates a uniform laminar directed flow.
There are two, one on either side of the tank.
It takes 40K gph and turns it, then creates a uniform laminar directed flow.
There are two, one on either side of the tank.
karimwassef
Active member
So I'm redrawing the structure to account for real variability in thickness.
I'm going to assume that the sheet thickness is 0.236 to 0.25 . Is that right?
What's the variability in 0.5" acrylic?
I'm going to assume that the sheet thickness is 0.236 to 0.25 . Is that right?
What's the variability in 0.5" acrylic?
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
1/4" is actually 6mm nominal - it can vary in either direction. I'd pull up the data sheets on Acrylite GP.
Extruded may be fine here as well (Acrylite FF). The edges get a polished edge coming out of a laser cutter.
I'd also make a ton of wooden jigs from the laser cutter. Also, breaking this down into subassemblies.
1/4" is actually 6mm nominal - it can vary in either direction. I'd pull up the data sheets on Acrylite GP.
Extruded may be fine here as well (Acrylite FF). The edges get a polished edge coming out of a laser cutter.
I'd also make a ton of wooden jigs from the laser cutter. Also, breaking this down into subassemblies.
karimwassef
Active member
Since it's a repetitive structure, I was going to build the families and then assemble into the whole.
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg"/></a>
It's basically 9 structures, some of which repeat.
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsg94gpwce.jpg"/></a>
It's basically 9 structures, some of which repeat.
karimwassef
Active member
Good point. I have to fabricate to fabricate... 
This is difficult. Any obvious easy buttons I'm missing?
Here's my main thread. I think the fabrication is going to be the main obstacle.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23982715#post23982715
This is difficult. Any obvious easy buttons I'm missing?
Here's my main thread. I think the fabrication is going to be the main obstacle.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23982715#post23982715
karimwassef
Active member
this is DIY level, so it's got to work without NRE.
If I injection mold something, it would be 1/8 the scale and it would need to be one piece. This way, it can be mass reproduce-able, to cover the cost of the NRE.
The structures themselves are not that hard to make. It's making sure they line up.
If I injection mold something, it would be 1/8 the scale and it would need to be one piece. This way, it can be mass reproduce-able, to cover the cost of the NRE.
The structures themselves are not that hard to make. It's making sure they line up.
adambowersva
New member
Re the spindle bit...
I use 1/2" straight 2 flute bits predominantly on mine. I could buy fancier end mills but the big straights work beautifully. 1/2" material I generally two pass with a .02 offset then do a single finish pass taking off the rest. If you have good vac hold down you could easily do a single pass for the rough and a single for the finish on the 1/2" material. 3/4" just add an extra pass to the rough pass.
18-20k on spindle speed (my spindle is 5hp) and 150-250 on pass speed depending on your hold down capacity.
This gives me VERY good routed edges...perfect for welding or polishing with minimal effort.
1/4" up spirals will work as well at slower feeds but the edges aren't quite as good for me; though you do of course have a bit less waste.
I use 1/2" straight 2 flute bits predominantly on mine. I could buy fancier end mills but the big straights work beautifully. 1/2" material I generally two pass with a .02 offset then do a single finish pass taking off the rest. If you have good vac hold down you could easily do a single pass for the rough and a single for the finish on the 1/2" material. 3/4" just add an extra pass to the rough pass.
18-20k on spindle speed (my spindle is 5hp) and 150-250 on pass speed depending on your hold down capacity.
This gives me VERY good routed edges...perfect for welding or polishing with minimal effort.
1/4" up spirals will work as well at slower feeds but the edges aren't quite as good for me; though you do of course have a bit less waste.
adova
Premium Member
Thanks!
I had heard / seen good things with this Onsrud: http://ballewsaw.com/onsrud-63-535-single-flute-sc-upcut-spiral-o-flute-for-acrylic.html
5hp spindle is a beast! Mine is a 2.2kw. I am considering a DIY vacuum table, but I am not sure if it will give the result I want.
Thanks again!
I had heard / seen good things with this Onsrud: http://ballewsaw.com/onsrud-63-535-single-flute-sc-upcut-spiral-o-flute-for-acrylic.html
5hp spindle is a beast! Mine is a 2.2kw. I am considering a DIY vacuum table, but I am not sure if it will give the result I want.
Thanks again!
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