Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

If you consider how router blades are made, there is only one way it will rotate. The blade clearly had to be going in the right direction to cut through the material, or it would end up melting the product.

Same with moving the router across a sheet of acrylic. If you go the wrong way, it will wander, but if you go the right way, it stays on path. If you have to guess, try it on some scrap. Then get a sharpie and draw the direction on your workarea so you don't make a mistake and end up hurting yourself.
 
The basic thing to want to do is push the material againts the blade..... the router spins counter clockwise(already established) so you would want the fence to your left side and to the left of the router bit. The cutting edge of the router bit will be touching the right side of the material if you are pushing the material forward. If you put the fence on the opposite side of the router you will still be doing the exact same thing :). The only difference now is that you are on the opposite side of the table. I hope that makes sense :).

ok i just picked up this bit from lowes and folow exactly above state but i am running to a problem ,,sometime the bit caught into meterial making a big loop and its doesn't smooth at all,,here is brandnew bit i just bought please let me know what i did wrong? thanks

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=63621-353-85601MC
 
Are you trying to cut a lot off of the acrylic? i only use my router table as trimmer sometimes i will cut off up to an inch but that is only when i am using a template or when i am flush trimming. I use a table saw to make my raw cuts, i thne take the sheet over to the router and square it. I dont use it to make fresh cuts specially not with a big bit. Sorry i might have confused you as i misunderstood what your objective was.

I hope this clears things up a bit.
 
i am testing on a pc of acrylic,,,just to smooth out the glue joint e but it giving me problem that it doesn't turn out smoothly
i want to smooth out a piece of acryli before weldon3 apply thanks

Are you trying to cut a lot off of the acrylic? i only use my router table as trimmer sometimes i will cut off up to an inch but that is only when i am using a template or when i am flush trimming. I use a table saw to make my raw cuts, i thne take the sheet over to the router and square it. I dont use it to make fresh cuts specially not with a big bit. Sorry i might have confused you as i misunderstood what your objective was.

I hope this clears things up a bit.
 
Could be a problem with feeding speed as well as the speed that the router is turning at. Are you pushing the material as fast as possible? its actually something you have to get a feel for. Too fast and you will have nasty little burrs, too slow and you will proly have an uneven edge.
 
maybe i am pushing too slow,,,but when i try to feed fast ,,the bit caught into acrylic
i will keep trying more to see what better thanks
 
kvmn, are you using a fence on your table?

Is this a big table or just a small table? You want to be using a big table and run the acrylic along the fence. So it should be fence, then material, then the bit. If you are working on a small table with the fence right at the bit this could be what is wrong

Hope the makes sense.
 
You should not EVER tell a newbie to go backwards. Being a cabinetmaker I have seen many people w/ experience chew the end off of fingers with a router.

If you can, find a handy-person to show you.
A) this is not a thread only for newbies,
B) read what I said, did I ever tell anyone to do this? no, I said it can be advantageous at times, and
C)I recommended that in a posts just a couple prior to yours.

Try reading sometime pal, it's fundamental :rolleyes:

If possible, I would highly recommend getting someone with experience to show you a little bit. Routers are very efficient at remove flesh from humans so IMO getting some hands-on training, even if informal, will be beneficial.

Sheesh,
James
 
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kvmn, are you using a fence on your table?

Is this a big table or just a small table? You want to be using a big table and run the acrylic along the fence. So it should be fence, then material, then the bit. If you are working on a small table with the fence right at the bit this could be what is wrong

Hope the makes sense.

i am using this table saw
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/TS3650-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm
i just install a router on the left wing and using table saw fence
so
Fence-acrylic-flushrouter bit,,,
please let me know if the 1/2 size bit above is correct bit or not? nthanks
 
I have a question, I have recently made an acrylic tank but has got some of the cement on the viewing side and accidently put my fingers on it causing prints, how can I remove them?
 
I am wanting to make a frag tank that is 42"x23"x16" out of 1/2" acrylic. Could I get away with no bracing? If not, I have some strips that I could glue across the middle of the tank. Would that work? This will be my first time playing with acrylic. thanks
 
I have a question, I have recently made an acrylic tank but has got some of the cement on the viewing side and accidently put my fingers on it causing prints, how can I remove them?

wet sand it down with very fine wetsand paper 2200g and buff it out,,goodluck
 
I am wanting to make a frag tank that is 42"x23"x16" out of 1/2" acrylic. Could I get away with no bracing? If not, I have some strips that I could glue across the middle of the tank. Would that work? This will be my first time playing with acrylic. thanks

why don't you try with rimless and if it bowl then put strip across just my 2cent goodluck
 
I am wanting to make a frag tank that is 42"x23"x16" out of 1/2" acrylic. Could I get away with no bracing? If not, I have some strips that I could glue across the middle of the tank. Would that work? This will be my first time playing with acrylic. thanks

yes it will bow...like crazy...
2nd not a good project to start on a rimless tank for a first timer...
with a tank of that size i would put a 2" eurobrace on the top one single piece...
it really isnt gonna hurt nothing to add a euro but a little more money in material cost....
here is a sample...
drop11.jpg
 
I have been having a hard time finding Polycast, Acrylite GP, Plexi-Glas G brand acrylic. Every acrylic company in my area tries to tell me that there is no difference between cast and cell cast.
They say that the name brand doesn't matter. Its all the same. Some guy tried to sell me Lexinite. (I think thats what he said) Im in North East Pennsylvania. (poconos) Anyone know where I can get it from? Or who has it in stock?
 
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