Add more baffles while in service

[lakee911]

Good Afternoon:
Any way I can add a couple more baffles (I have room) while my sump is in service (i.e. wet)?

I've got a 20G sump under my 120G FOWLR that has three baffles (down, under and up) to remove microbubbles. My dumb..butt...put them too close together, so I get a higher velocity through the baffles and only about 75% of the bubbles are removed.

This sump has been in service for about 8 months and the refuguim has macro, mangroves and my remote DSB w/ lots of critters. I'm hesitant to disrupt the refugium by taking the sump out of service.

I was thinking maybe some plexi or something, but keeping in place would be problamatic. What to do?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[MJAnderson]

Hmmm...2 options. Since these aren't "loadbearing" can you use plumbers putty (which cures underwater). I think it sticks to glass.

Another option is using glass and marine weatherstripping. I saw a thread on here a few months back where someone cut the glass a little smaller, then ran this weatherstripping around the sides and wedged it into the tank. Pressure held it in. It had mixed results, but on a small tank it should work better.

Have you thought of running your overflow into a filter sock or sponge? Will remove the bubbles but will need to be cleaned often.

 

[King-Kong]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011465#post8011465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MJAnderson
...Another option is using glass and marine weatherstripping. I saw a thread on here a few months back where someone cut the glass a little smaller, then ran this weatherstripping around the sides and wedged it into the tank. Pressure held it in. It had mixed results, but on a small tank it should work better.

I've also given the idea thought, however one variation to the above would be to apply silicon to the ends. Since it is soft it should give and bend and let you slide the baffle into place.

 

[Lake75]

I used the weatherstripping method when I was building my first sump. After I finished with cutting the panels (1/4" acrylic) and locked them in place, they looked so nice. BUT, they failed miserably and all collapsed as soon as water started to flow in.

The reason? Water serves as a lubricant between the weatherstipping and the glass wall. It weakens the pressure lock a lot. If water levels on both sides of the baffle are the same, then it won't have any problem in holding its place. However, a difference of one inch or so will produce enough water pressure to knock loose the weatherstripping lock...

Now I use the failed weatherstripping baffle as the last step in my bubble trap (the first 3 baffles are now made from glass and silicone-glued to the sump). It holds well since no water level difference. But it slides easily when I'm working in the sump. Theoratically, you can cut the acrylic (better not use glass, esp. thin glass, because you'll very likely break it when trying to snap it into place) into such a size that tigher fitting be created. But for most of us using simple tools to cut acrylic or glass, this type of precision is hard to acheive and you'll probably have to waste many pieces of materials in order to find the right pressure-lock.

In short, not worth trying, unless you don't have any other options and you don't have water pressures in your sump.

 

[newtophish]

Have never tried it but here is a page documenting it.

Weather stripping

 

[MJAnderson]

Lake,

the fact you are using acrylic might be part of your problem. It tends to bow more than glass does. Since this relies on pressure, a stiffer material would make a big difference. I'm not sure of the stress differences between acrylic and glass, but the 3/16" acrylic I have used is much more pliable than the 1/8" glass.

 

[lakee911]

Thanks for the idears. I'd be hesitant to use plumbers putty because, I'm not sure it would be safe for the fishies. No? Prolly make a mess too.

I like the silicone idea, but I'm hesitant if the weatherstripping would work well or tend to work loose overtime. Either way, glass would have to be thicker just in case wedging it in breaks it.

My next sump should have grooves dadoed in to the acrylic for adding baffles/panels as needed. Would build a flange on the top outside so they can slip into place. Hmm. Yes, I like that. Will be a while though....

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Lake75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8011995#post8011995 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MJAnderson
Lake,

the fact you are using acrylic might be part of your problem. It tends to bow more than glass does. Since this relies on pressure, a stiffer material would make a big difference. I'm not sure of the stress differences between acrylic and glass, but the 3/16" acrylic I have used is much more pliable than the 1/8" glass.

It might be true. I think the 1/4" thick acrylic sheet I used is fairly stiff, but in theory it certainly can't match that of glass. So, maybe by using 1/4" thick glass with this method, it may work out. 1/8" is too thin IMO and will break easily.

 

[jay24k]

I would personally go a different route.

If draining the sump for 3 hrs to put in baffles is not possible, I would build a frame outside of the tank of acrylic. Make it near the exact size of the internal chamber. Then build your baffles into it and then place it in the tank. Yes some water might run through the sides but as we all know, water will go through the easiest most non restrictive route.

 

[Pbrown3701]

use a cheap rubermaid as a "temporary sump" until you can glue in some new baffles.

 

[MJAnderson]

Actually if you get plumbers putty that says it's "for potable water" or something like that it's very safe. Same stuff they use to attach LR together in your tank.