Adding a DI canister to my existing RO system

[MCX23]

I've currently got an RO system for drinking water and have seen you can buy an add on for making the RO into an RODI system. Anyone done this? Would I install a shut off valve of some sort so I can still have my drinking water reservoir filled but then divert the water into the DI filter and into a holding station? I'm just curious how I can do this without buying a whole new system. Anyone else done this successfully?
Thanks for any tips or suggestions!!!


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[billdogg]

If you talk to Russ at www.buckeyehydro.com he can fix you up with everything you will need.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Typically you would just tee off the line right after the membrane and put the DI in line before a second faucet or valve. Can you show a pic of your current setup? It's hard to be specific without knowing what you're starting with.

 

[MCX23]

That's my current system. I've got room to the right that I could easily run a line and mount an add on with a holding container below.


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[45commando]

Yes you will need a TEE & a couple of shut off valves after your RO membrane., so you can divert water to the DI canister, as needed. I'd install an inline TDS monitor while your at it, they are not expensive & it will allow you to check your RO & DI TDS readings, so you'll know when to change out the DI resin. HTH

 

[mcgyvr]

Diagram here..
https://airwaterice.com/media/pdf_files/d/u/dual_home_reef_illustration.pdf

parts available here
https://airwaterice.com/di-deionizatioan/vertical-color-changing-di-resin-adder-kit.html
They have the check valves too if you want to do that like the diagram.. then you don't need to worry about switching valves..

bulkreefsupply also has the DI addon kits..

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

You don't really need valves at all, the water only flows through the line that's open. In fact, leaving the check valve out will allow the pressure tank (assuming the OP has one) to pressurize the supply through the DI as well, which will increase flow rate for the first few minutes of production.

 

[Georb]

I have done this and it worked perfectly.

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[ReefsandGeeks]

I have a setup that goes from the RO membrane to a T. One end of the T is a 4 gallon pressure tank and the drinking water faucet, and the other end of the T I have a manual shut off valve, and after the shutoff valve is my DI cartridge then to my holding tank. This way, my drinking water always has pressure, even when making DI water. works great

 

[MCX23]

I have a setup that goes from the RO membrane to a T. One end of the T is a 4 gallon pressure tank and the drinking water faucet, and the other end of the T I have a manual shut off valve, and after the shutoff valve is my DI cartridge then to my holding tank. This way, my drinking water always has pressure, even when making DI water. works great

This is pretty much what I had in mind. My other thought was a couple of nights before a scheduled water change I would just flip it over and make water for the tank at night and then in the morning switch it back so we have drinking water. If I can go this route virtually nothing will be affected. Thanks for the tips!

 

[ReefsandGeeks]

That would work fine. Adding in the T and putting the pressure storage for drinking water before the DI shut off valve just allows you to keep the drinking water for drinking only. I forgot to mention I put a check valve on the fill side for the drinking water. That way when I turn the valve to make DI, it doesn't use the drinking water. So even when the DI is being made, you still have 3 gallons of drinking water on tap.