Advice on Stand Design?

[Solitaryensis]

I am getting ready to build a stand for my 80 gallon 4' x 2' tank. I plan to build the frame out of 2' x 4's and then skin it with 1/2" plywood. My thought is that I would build the frame 1" short to accommodate for the skin but something tells me this isn't the right approach. Any advice? TIA!

 

[ctripi]

With a frameless tank of that size you can get away with it. Just have the gap above the doors only and support the other three sides.
With a framed tank you need to support the entire frame. So to achieve the look you seek: build the 2x4 stand and have the plywood skins go up past the end of the 2x4's to cover them and the frame of the tank.
Ps... layered plywood ok for the sides .... but mdf plywood is a must for the doors

 

[Solitaryensis]

Thanks! I am building an ADA style stand so even the front will have some skin, albeit mostly decorative.

I was planning to use the same layered ply for the doors. I always assumed layered was more sturdy than MDF but maybe not?

With a frameless tank of that size you can get away with it. Just have the gap above the doors only and support the other three sides.
With a framed tank you need to support the entire frame. So to achieve the look you seek: build the 2x4 stand and have the plywood skins go up past the end of the 2x4's to cover them and the frame of the tank.
Ps... layered plywood ok for the sides .... but mdf plywood is a must for the doors

 

[ctripi]

Nope the layered will warp unless it’s secured with fasteners. Doors seem best build with solid wood or mdf

 

[chewey]

This article doesn’t like mdf. Soaks water, can’t prime, don’t hold screw we’ll. And more

https://www.addicted2decorating.com...ences-pros-and-cons-and-when-to-use-what.html

 

[chewey]

I just built a 120x36x40 stand. Wish I used a saw with more teeth to cut the 2x6 smoothly. It currently have a lot of splinters at the end. Wish I had stained it a lighter color. Wish I would used more hex head screws instead of a nail gun. I’m using pine plywood 40x41. Looks good. Also use polyurethane 3x thick. Cost a few bucks more but save a lot of time.

 

[ctripi]

Consider laminating the mdf. I’m personally not a fan of any painted stands.

 

[sfdan]

Plywood is significantly stronger than MDF and significantly more durable when it comes to contact with water. For the aspects of your stand that are structural, like the skin, you should use regular plywood. Regardless of whether the tank was rimless or not I'd make sure the full weight of the tank was supported by the vertical supports.

Not sure why you'd want to use MDF for the doors. If you are concerned about the plywood warping then just glue or screw some plywood strips behind it to help it resist moving. But just like the skin plywood is lighter and stronger than MDF. If you invest in a high quality plywood, like baltic birch, then you won't even need to worry about edge banding or dealing with voids.

 

[marioensf]

I’ve build a few stands for people in the club; I used 2x4’s as frame and 3/4” plywood on the outside; currently I’m building a stand for a cube, 36x36.
MDO unlike MDF, uses different resins? to bond the material.
I say skip the 1/2” ply and get 3/4”.
For the corners, which will carry the weight, you can use 2x6’s so you can have a wide opening and avoid a center support. Bonding the skin/plywood to the frame and using fasteners will make for a solid cabinet.

 

[marioensf]

http://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/yet-another-cube-small-cube-thing-in-progress.21898/

 

[Solitaryensis]

Mario: Are the stands you build flush with the edge of tank? If so, do you build the frame short then make up the remaining size with the plywood?

I've build a few stands for people in the club; I used 2x4's as frame and 3/4" plywood on the outside; currently I'm building a stand for a cube, 36x36.
MDO unlike MDF, uses different resins? to bond the material.
I say skip the 1/2" ply and get 3/4".
For the corners, which will carry the weight, you can use 2x6's so you can have a wide opening and avoid a center support. Bonding the skin/plywood to the frame and using fasteners will make for a solid cabinet.

 

[Ebn]

Old pic of the ADA style stand built out of MDO with the sliding sump platform. 30x20 footprint.

 

[marioensf]

This one will be flush or almost flush.
I measure tank’s base and deduct the thickness of the ply to make the frame.
Plywood these days if imported, tends to be metric, about 18mm but sold as 3/4”; you would have to adjust cuts accordingly if the ply is metric.
So if your stand will be 48x24, deduct 1.5” on the sides and 3/4” for the front since normally the back does not require the ply skin unless you plan on it, if you do then deduct 1.5”
I picked a RSR 170 and that one will have a flush stand but I’m inclined towards dark brown colors or black; I don’t have a place where I can spray finishes so I use brushes and lots of patience.
You can buy pre-glued veneer edging for the exposed cuts of the ply, easy to apply with an old iron and to press it, if you don’t have a roller, a block of wood does the trick. An edge trimmer is a handy tool to remove the excess material once the edge-banding veneer has set.